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Seth Baumgartner and Jason Van Leuven open the mics for your crop steering and cultivation questions.
Kaisha [00:00:00]:
You. What's up, gromies? Welcome to office hours, your source for free cannabis cultivation education. I'm your moderator, Kaisha. Welcome to episode 87. Here's how we do it. I'll keep an eye out for questions in the hangouts chat, drop them anytime. And if your question gets picked, we will get right to it. We're also going live on YouTube and Instagram.
Kaisha [00:00:18]:
So if you log on over there, post your questions, and we'll do our best to cover it during the show. The theme for today's show is Aroya Goats, our new direct to consumer product that puts the same scientific great technology used by the pros directly into the hands of home growers, small scale cultivators and anyone passionate about cultivation. We've gotten hundreds of messages since the launch of AROYA Go, so we decided to use this episode to give a detailed walkthrough of the product and answer your burning questions. Jason, you ready to get into it?
Jason [00:00:47]:
Yeah. Let's dive in. We're going to kind of show what you get with the AROYA go starter kit, what to expect from the system and go from there, answer any questions that we have. So, without further ado, let's open it up and see what comes with the product. So it's the Roy go starter kit. I think it's $2,500 on our webshop. And included is going to be. Looks like some brief instructions.
Jason [00:01:20]:
Nice diagram.
Kaisha [00:01:23]:
It's going to be professional operation here.
Jason [00:01:26]:
The climate one station. So that's the new aspirated sensor with temperature, relative humidity, VPD and co2. So this is a product we just launched as well here at MjBizcon at the beginning of the month. End of last month, yes. So as far as installation of this bad boy goes, it's going to be wired over power, over Ethernet, so needs 48 volts DC with the included power adapter, just plugs into 120 volts, it'll turn on and that will be that bad boy. Then we've got the Aria dual sensor nose. And so included with that, it's going to be the wireless transmitter and then the two terrace ones that are installed with it. So that's also a recently released product, new technology using CDS measurements.
Jason [00:02:21]:
A little bit better performance than the terrace twelve. And let's just actually start from the beginning with the installation here. If we take out the divider sleeve, I'm kind of making a mess of the table here. That's all right. In the bottom of the box is the ARoi gateway and some of the installation accessories. So the gateway will need to be plugged into wired Ethernet. So very likely you can just plug it right into your router, your modem, or a wireless bridge or extender that you have in your house or in a small grow facility. Include with that is the antenna and the PoE injector.
Jason [00:03:07]:
So let's first off we'll get the antenna installed in this bad boy. We'll find a suitable location for it. We recommend it be within about 30ft of your grow room or where you have climate station or nose installed at. It uses power over Ethernet and it's going to require data and power for the gateway. It's the only device that needs to be connected directly to your network and your Internet access. If you have a PoE power over Ethernet compatible router or device that you're plugged into, we can plug directly into that device with just the Internet cable. So if you have a Poe router or modem or extender, then you'll just need to make sure you plug it in directly from gateway to the PoE enabled network device. It's got some lights on it here.
Jason [00:04:01]:
This light on the end here with the vents is going to be power light so it'll turn red making sure that it's powered. Obviously if it's not red, there's a good chance that you need to use the PoE injector as well. And then on the antenna side is going to be the Internet status lights and this will indicate whether it's successfully connected to the network or not. They'll be flashing either orange or green depending on the network speed. So for most home installations, assuming that you don't have a PoE enabled network device, we'll need to make sure that the gateway wire is plugged into the PoE side. The LAN or local area network part of the injector is going to be plugged into your router, modem or wall jack wherever you have Ethernet access and then make sure that the Poe injector is installed into the wall. Just plug it into typical 120 volts outlet and then you'll see those lights that we had talked about earlier. This is going to be one of the first steps when you get the system to get it online and make sure that you get the AROYA app downloaded either from the Apple Store or the Google Play Store.
Jason [00:05:15]:
You'll also have access to the web app so you can get that at app arroyt IO and you'll get logged in with the credentials provided when you purchase the product for the climate station we have included also the ratchet strap. I always encourage people get this hung up within about a foot of the top of their canopy. We want to represent that plant environment, that microclimate, that the plants are in as best as possible. So these are awesome because we can also ratchet them up as the plants grow. Get this clipped in there, get the other end clipped up on the ceiling, and then typically ratchet it up to somewhere in the top of the canopy. At that time. It's good to run the. I got a lot of things hanging here.
Jason [00:06:12]:
Good to run the network cable. We've included a 15 foot ethernet cable and the power over ethernet adapter. Get this thing turned on, you should be able to hear a slight buzz of the aspirated the fan in there. That's providing aspiration for the sensor itself. And that thing should come online. Great time to be on the app and check that your gateway is online. Check that your climate station is now reporting data. You'll want to make sure that you get both the climate station and the nose assigned in the app or in the web app, and then it'll start reporting data to the zones in the room that you have it assigned in.
Jason [00:07:06]:
With the terrace one very similar installation as the terrace twelve. Make sure it's installed at the appropriate height in your substrate. And one of these cables is three meter cable or 15ft, and one is the eight inch cable. So select two appropriate plants and get those sensors installed. Make sure they're assigned in the app so that it'll be storing data on your dashboard. If you like it, or if you already know you like it and you want to get more sensors, visit our web shop and order more sensors for your Aurora go setup. The Aurora go setup is very similar to the full commercial arroya system. There are just a few different buildouts in there, so you'll be provided 60 days of data storage.
Jason [00:07:56]:
So you get around two months of storing data. You could get the open sprinkler integration. So if you want to give a shot and start controlling your solenoids from within Aroya and you have an opensprinkler, get those details put into the setup controllers section of the AROYA app and you'll just need the password, the ip address, and let the system know how to communicate with your open sprinkler. Have fun. Yeah, this is a great product to either get substrate data in your grow room, get environmental data in your grow room. Give AROYAa shot. If you are a full fledged commercial facility and you haven't had experience with AROYA, you want to get it going in a room, get a stack of sensors, get set up. It includes subscription for three years, so gives you a great chance to know if you want to invest in the entire system or not.
Kaisha [00:08:54]:
Amazing breakdown. Thank you so much, Jason. We're so excited about AROYA go. You want to go to AROYAgo IO to get your preorder in. Just want to let you all know, due to high demand, we are going to be shipping in January 2024. It's all good. Don't worry. We got you covered.
Kaisha [00:09:09]:
But if you preorder now, you can save $1,000. So you can get that 24 99 price. I know. Our good friend Cypher is on the line. You had a question, Cypher? You want to go ahead and ask it?
Guest [00:09:19]:
I do. Can you guys hear me okay?
Kaisha [00:09:22]:
Yeah, go for it.
Guest [00:09:23]:
Okay. So I'm just rural enough to not have high speed Internet. So we get our Internet through Verizon, which know, mobile Internet. So it's basically like a mobile hotspot. That's how I connect to my trollmasters, all that stuff. Trollmaster. It takes the cable, right, the regular cable, but I use the little dongle that goes from the cable to the wireless. Little adapter thing.
Guest [00:09:56]:
Would the arroyo go be compatible with that?
Jason [00:10:01]:
So AROYAgo should work. That gateway should be able to plug into anything that you've got an ethernet cable to. Doesn't require a high speed Internet connection. It just requires a high speed connection. I have probably dozens of clients that end up being on either a four GLT or a five GLTE connection. I've had multiple of them use Verizon setups. I myself have actually had it set up through a 4g hotspot on Verizon. So you shouldn't have any issues there as long as you have an available ethernet port that's connected on that network.
Guest [00:10:35]:
Sweet. Thank you, guys. That was it.
Kaisha [00:10:39]:
Amazing cipher. We can't wait to see what you do with the aurora go. Exciting. Amazing. All right, well, just a shout out to everybody who's out there. If you have questions about Aurora go or anything else related to cultivation and crop steering, we're here for you. That's really what we're all about. Jason, thank you for that.
Kaisha [00:10:57]:
Awesome unboxing. You ready to start getting to some crop steering, cultivation questions?
Jason [00:11:03]:
Let's do it.
Kaisha [00:11:04]:
Let's do it. All right, so we got this one in from Tim from Detroit. They wrote great Vegas show. A lot of good content for me, who is an old vet, but steady learning. We appreciate you Tim, thanks for checking us out there. So here's another question. As you know, when one rock wool cube is set on another, gravity pulls the upper cube's water and moisture right out of it, down to the lower cube. So when I set my four inch cube on the slab, I can imagine it's going to do the same thing.
Kaisha [00:11:33]:
So does that mean I should need to water more often right off rip? Especially because my terrace twelve is now down in the slab and not giving me a reading of what's going on in that upper four inch cube sitting on the slab. I wouldn't want the upper four inch cube to dry out along with the roots to which I don't have enough time to get to that lower slab. Or am I overthinking? Appreciate the free education. What do you think, Jason?
Jason [00:11:59]:
No, you're not overthinking it. It sounds like you've really kind of got the basis of understanding of what's happening physically with that transplant situation. And it sounds like you're on a four inch cube. That's great, because you're exactly right. Some of that upper substrate becomes much less effective after we've stacked it onto a slab. This is why we do like to do some rooting in practices specific irrigation strategies at the beginning of the cycle or when we are transplanting. Sometimes it's in veg, sometimes it's right when we flip to flower, and that's irrigation. That's going to be typically a few small pulses throughout the day.
Jason [00:12:37]:
What's happening there is, you're exactly right. When we put that four x four on top of the slab, obviously the entire root zone is in the four x four for the first day, two days, three days, a little bit less and less throughout the entire rooting process. And we want to make sure that those existing roots are getting enough fresh oxygen or refreshing nutrients, and even more importantly, that they are following the path of that irrigation water into the slab. Right. And so those are going to be some small pulses of irrigation. We actually don't want so much irrigation that we're increasing the water content of the slabs significantly. We want to start those slabs at field capacity. We might be on, say, two or three 1% shots a day during our rooting in period.
Jason [00:13:24]:
That's going to keep that plant alive, encourage that root growth to start filling out the slab, and then we'll go from there. So usually that slab is going to be at field capacity. We're going to do the small irrigations, but it's not going to be more than how much water content loss we have from some evaporation. And then we'll start to see, all right, the sensor is going to report more, more water usage from that slab. It's a great time. If you have any concerns physically, when that plant has fully rooted in, just go over there and you can just wiggle the four x four a little bit and you'll feel how well ridded in it is into the new slab. Don't get too wild. We're not trying to break that connection.
Jason [00:14:03]:
Usually we see that in a good environment that can be between, say three and five or six days. So typically by that end of the first week after a transplant, you should be kind of ready to rock and roll with some regenerative irrigation strategies. And this is kind of an important time to make sure that we're understanding now that the roots have penetrated the slab, most of that root zone that's going to affect the plant life is now the slab. All right, so a very important transition that we can find a lot of optimization by how we irrigate, making sure that we're not over watering, so that those roots are getting lazy and not penetrating the entire slab, but make sure that we are encouraging some plant growth, refreshing with oxygens and nutrients at the time. So, yes, great question. As far as later in the cycle, we're really not as worried about what's going on in the four x four, simply because the plant has way more access to that slab root zone now. So the amount of mass, the amount of written ins, written areas, all that type of stuff, what we're really focusing on after the plant is rooted in is what's going on in the slab. The longer that plant is alive, probably the more of that four x four that's just going to be root crown at that time, and there becomes little absorption of irrigation or water into the plant.
Jason [00:15:29]:
So. Love that question.
Kaisha [00:15:33]:
Yeah, really great answer. So, Tim from Detroit, thank you for dropping that our way. We appreciate you and keep us posted on what's going on over there. All right, we've gotten a few live questions in. Our good friend Iron armor dropped this one. They want to know what are some methods of sizing dehumidifiers and humidifiers for a room. Got some advice?
Jason [00:15:53]:
Sure. Absolutely. So as far as we start off with talking about sizing a dehumidifier, a great way to do that is if you've got an arroya system, use the absolute humidity checkbox in the arroya system and then just do some calculations. As far as the total amount of water that's in the room. If you have an existing dhoom, you could turn that on and see. All right, here's what it's rated at. Here's how much it's actually pulling as far as absolute humidity from that room, and then just decise your new equipment accordingly. As far as humidifiers go, probably one where it's easy just to go a little bit oversized and then just reduce the duty cycle if you need to.
Jason [00:16:37]:
And typically we're going to see humidifiers very important in bedrooms. And then during early flower, usually once our plants are raging, we've got plenty of humidity in the room from transpiration. So that's when those dehomes are going to be effective. Both of those are great strategies for either equipment.
Kaisha [00:16:57]:
Excellent iron armor. Thank you so much for the question. All right, continuing to move on here, bucks dropped a couple questions. The first one is about AROYA go. They want to know, not sure if this question has been asked, but will the AROYA go be distributed globally? I can start the answer to that right now. AROYA go is available in the US and Canada. I believe that's where we're starting. And then we're exploring some other options as we go along.
Kaisha [00:17:21]:
Is that right, Jason?
Jason [00:17:23]:
That is correct. Functionally, it should work around the world.
Kaisha [00:17:28]:
Cool. So stay tuned. Bucks more to come on that. They also wanted to know, will terrace one be adaptable to other systems like grow link?
Jason [00:17:37]:
So, yeah, the terrace one is actually set up specifically with the configuration of the arrogant nose itself. There's really a lot of systems that people have set up the terras twelve to work on the terrace one has a little bit more complexity as far as how those calibrations are being run in the system out of the box. It's not going to be easy to set up the terra swan to connect to a system like Growlink.
Kaisha [00:18:11]:
Sorry about that. It froze you for a second. Awesome. Thank you. All right, keeping it moving. We got this live question in from Instagram. Plant daddy is asking, is it better to try and stretch phase one out as long into the day as you can, or should you try to reach field capacity as quickly as you can?
Jason [00:18:30]:
Usually we're going to try and get field capacity. I like to do it within about an hour of the first irrigation. So when we think about, all right, the start of the day, the start of the photo period, lights come on. Usually I'll wait about one to 2 hours to get the first irrigations in. And then after that first irrigation, I like to get up to field capacity in about an hour, and I usually try to avoid doing it in any less than four irrigation shots. All right, so at a bare minimum, we'll say, hey, lights on, let's wait an hour, irrigate the first time, and then we might do irrigation every 15 minutes to get up to field capacity.
Kaisha [00:19:13]:
Awesome, Jason, thank you so much. All right, I'm going to move on to this one. We got this right in from the farmery. They're looking for some advice on sensor placement for three gallon and five gallon pots. Straight cocoa in some, and cocoa perlite 70 30 in others. Athena proline. They were wondering where the most accurate spot is to spot check using their handheld water content, probe the core somewhere in the middle or from the side of the pot. I measure the core and it reads 40%.
Kaisha [00:19:43]:
Then I read the middle and as far down as possible, and it reads 20%. Which do I want to go by when trying to figure out drybacks, core, middle, bottom, or the average of all spots? What would you recommend?
Jason [00:19:56]:
Yeah, that's a great question as well. Usually in like a three gallon, you can still use the sensor installation template tool and go from the edge of the cocoa. Typically, what we're thinking about there is making sure that you're not having irrigation channeling. If you're going to have irrigation channeling, you're always going to have some troubles getting a good representative measurement from the substrate. So if you get low flow emitters, good substrate consistency. So is that cocoa blended well? Is it in good condition? That type of stuff, you can still go in the side in a three gallon, in a five gallon, that's kind of right at the edge where you are going to see enough variation just physically from the volume of that, that going into the outside might start to get you a little bit lower measurement than you want. The approach that I would do personally is with your substrate, take a measurement of what that weighs in grams when it's dry. So I like to use kitchen scales.
Jason [00:20:58]:
I got quite a few of them for all types of horticulture stuff. So take your dry cocoa in your five gallon, throw it on the kitchen scale, see what the weight is dry, and then bring it up to field capacity. Right. So irrigate it until you've got some runoff, and then wait maybe five or ten minutes after that runoff stopped, throw it on the kitchen scale, then subtract your dry weight from that, and then you'll have the water weight in there as well. With that, we can also calculate what the field capacity of that substrate is so obviously, we've got, all right, here's our dry weight. Here's our dry weight plus water, which is going to be our weight of the substrate after field capacity. If we try to subtract the dry weight, now we've just got the water weight. If we do it in grams, then that's also going to be milliliters.
Jason [00:21:48]:
If we know the volume of the substrate, then we just divide the substrate volume by the water volume that's in there, and we'll have field capacity. Right. Usually you're going to see that for most cocoa products, it's going to either be about 45% or up about 60%, depending on the pith, the manufacturer, just the physical composition of that substrate. And so what I would do is when you're at that field capacity, start probing the substrate in a few different spots. Obviously, that field capacity is going to be an assumption across the entire substrate. And so that's a great way to say, all right, when I have the sensor at this height, it also agrees with what my weight based measurement equals. So if my field capacity is at, say, 60%, that's where my substrate is at. Let's poke that substrate until we found a spot that represents our 60%.
Jason [00:22:48]:
And that's just a great way to know that, hey, this sample is attributing the average water content across that entire substrate.
Kaisha [00:22:58]:
Awesome. Love that question, farmer, thank you so much, and go luck. Keep us posted. All right, our teammate Mariel just dropped a question about arroya. Go. The box comes with two substrate sensors and one climate sensor. Is that all I need?
Jason [00:23:15]:
You will need the, excuse me, and the accessories that come with the system. So that gateway is the communication link between the wireless sensors being the climate station and the substrate stations. It is the communication link between those and the Internet. That data gets up onto the Internet, and that's how you can access it from your mobile app. Anywhere that you have Internet access, you can be down at the cafe, you can be at your buddy's grove, you can be on a vacation in Tahiti. All that information is available on the Internet.
Kaisha [00:23:52]:
Awesome. Thank you for that. And then I've got another follow up here. How do I know if I need more sensors? You want to talk a little bit about the scale up possibilities there?
Jason [00:24:00]:
Yeah, great question. So, typically, without knowing the variation of HVAC parameters or a variation of irrigation parameters or how many strains are trying to run in a room, typically we talk about one substrate sensor per 100 square foot, just as a rough estimate, if you have really good consistency. As far as HVAC, all your drippers are exact same rate. You're only running one strain in there and you have excellent cloning consistency. You might be able to get away with a little less sensors than that. Obviously, if you have lots of strains in the room, then it's better to have quite a few more sensors. Those strains are going to behave differently, and if we want to optimize how they're growing, then we need to analyze them as a separate variable.
Kaisha [00:24:52]:
Awesome. Thank you for that. Loving the arroyo grow questions. Now's the time. Ask us some questions, y'all. But we have live ones coming in as well. So let me move on to the next one here. We got this on Instagram.
Kaisha [00:25:03]:
When charging empty cocoa pot prior to transplanting, what should be the EC reading in the pot before?
Jason [00:25:13]:
You know, that's going to depend a little bit on your nutrient manufacturer and possibly how early that you transplant. But usually you're going to want to be around your EC that you are irrigating with. So if you like to irrigate at, say, three dozen semens for plants right after transplanting, then we see a root zone ec of, say, anywhere between two and a half and four is probably a pretty good range to be at.
Kaisha [00:25:44]:
Wonderful. Excellent. Thank you for that. All right, going to keep it moving. Trichom Valley dropped a couple questions related to their leaf stems. So let's take the first one. What do hollow stems?
Jason [00:25:58]:
Interesting. So there's always been a little bit of controversy as far as hollow stems. Certain strains are just more likely to have hollow stems. Sometimes we can have plants that end up with hollow strains if we have other pathogen issues or infections. Maybe not a healthy root zone, maybe we're just not feeding them enough. So there could be a lot of reasons to why there's hollow stems. Sometimes you actually can't even notice if there's hollow stems unless you end up cutting a branch off or cutting this through the stem to see if it has a solid stem. Sometimes that outward expression isn't super obvious, but typically the general recommendation is that, hey, if we can get a healthy plant that it may not have hollow stems.
Kaisha [00:26:49]:
All right. And then their second question, what does it mean when your leaf stem snaps fairly easily? They're nice and green, but seem very rigid and perhaps brittle. Notice this during flower. Thank you very much, as always.
Jason [00:27:03]:
Yeah. Another question where there could be a number of reasons for this. The one that I always get worried about and it seems like usually easy test is it's like, all right, when we used to see plants, we called them duds. Right? Well, sometimes it's hop latent. If those leaf stems are really brittle, they just snap rather than having any flexibility. And you see some outward expression of that plant that's lagging behind, probably a good time to send out a test for hoplate and get an understanding of if you've got some infected stock. There could be some other possibilities. Know, just as far as nutrient, not a sure shot, telltale sign.
Jason [00:27:45]:
But if you are concerned about Hopliten, that's one that when I'm in the grow room, it's like, all right, this plant looks kind of dutted. Give it a snap. And it's like, all right, we need to get tested.
Kaisha [00:27:56]:
Tricom Valley, I hope you don't have to deal with hop latent, but good luck. Let us know if we can help you in any other way. All right, going to keep it moving, we got a question from our good friend Dave Ray. What's up, Dave? Our substrate EC is reading low at 1.6 to 2.2, but our runoff is reading low at 2.5. EC ph of 5.3 to 5.5. The ph is saying we're overfeeding, but the EC values aren't. Our feed is 6.2 to 6.4, ph, 2.0 to 2.5 ec lately to try to bring the runoff ph up, but it isn't coming up. We're sending about one gallon of feed through the three liter charcoal cube daily, which seems like more than enough.
Kaisha [00:28:40]:
All meters calibrated and working properly. Any idea what's happening here? Plants look okay for day 27 flower to me.
Jason [00:28:49]:
It sounds just like a classic case of underfeeding. Anytime that I see that red zone EC, less than three, I always have some concerns. Pretty much every cannabis strain that I've worked with prefers more nutrients than that available in the substrate. So those ph issues you're seeing are probably just a fluctuation of cations and anions that are left that the plant's not running out of. Right. So changes that I would make there is, if we're in cocoa, I would like to feed at ph of about 5.8. And then as far as EC levels, for something like an HPS room, I'll probably want to be anywhere three and a half as far as my fertigation Ec, and it might even be a little bit higher than that if you've got really good environmental factors and some hungry strains. And typically for, like, an led room, I'll be three and a half to 40 plus, depending on some of those other factors we talked about.
Jason [00:29:47]:
So that would be the first approach that I would take is just make sure you're getting enough nutrients in there and some of those ph issues might go away.
Kaisha [00:29:59]:
Awesome. Thank you for that, Jason. All right, we got another live question here. This one came in from Indiva. It is about the AROYA go. They want to know, can you save your data from the grow before it gets deleted after the two months? Or how does that work? Thank you kindly, growmeys. Appreciate you.
Jason [00:30:19]:
I don't believe there's an export option. So yes, you could save it. Take a screenshot of what your graphs look like. But there is an access to the raw data like there is with the full commercial arise system. You either have the manual export, which gives you a csv of those files, or if you want to, you can set up an API poll and grab that raw data directly from the system for the cultivation subscription. Aroya for Aroya go. It's just the graphics for the last 60 days.
Kaisha [00:30:50]:
Fantastic. Thank you, Jason and Diva. Thank you for that question. And then everybody out there. Yeah. If you have any questions about Aroya go or crop steering or cultivation, we are here for it. Now is the time to ask it. All right, I'm going to move on to this question from french flair.
Kaisha [00:31:04]:
They want to know how much PpFD do you recommend for stretching?
Jason [00:31:10]:
Yeah. So stretching period being the time that we like to apply generative stacking. So I'm guessing that means first day of 1212 to probably anywhere between two and four weeks into the flower cycle, into the 1212. Typically we'll talk about when we're coming out of the bedroom, getting into the flower room. We like to be from that, say 650 to 800 range, kind of depending on what your lights were like in the bedroom. Obviously we're trying to match DLI. So when we go from an 18 hours cycle to a twelve hour cycle, we will want to make sure that we have some increase, probably about 33% increase in light intensity. And then usually throughout the first week to ten days, we'll try to get to full ppfd.
Jason [00:31:58]:
So whether that be at 1101 200 ppfd, probably a good time to start ramping that up throughout the first seven days.
Kaisha [00:32:10]:
French flair, thank you so much for that question. All right, we did get a question here on IG about AROYA go bongrips wants to know what the subscription will cost after the three years of AROYA go bong rips. Right now, the plan is the subscription will be $20 a month after the first three years. So you still have that continued access to your data. So please let us know if you have any other questions about AROYA. Go. I have another question unrelated to Aurora. Go here.
Kaisha [00:32:37]:
But it was dropped on YouTube. Mitchell is looking for some advice. How is it that my batch tank ph is different than what's coming out of my wand?
Jason [00:32:47]:
Any thoughts on, you know, one of the first things that I would catch is just make sure that you're calibrating your ph meters regularly. It's a good thing if you've got make sure you're using the same strategy for calibrating both the one at the batch tank and the one at the wand. Assuming that the sensors are accurate, those ph wands are giving you what they should be. Then there could be some things going on where the ph is actually changing throughout the fertigation lines that you have. This can be due to algae buildup, it can be due to previous irrigation shots that have been sitting in the line overnight or for some period of time and or just temperature changes as it's going down the fertigation line. So all those factors can cause ph to drift. PH just naturally drifts over time. Obviously, the more buffered that our irrigation system, our ferrigation water is, the more it's going to resist that ph change.
Jason [00:33:49]:
But we're always going to see some amount of drift based on if that irrigation water is sitting there, is it interacting with any biologicals in the line? And or have we seen some changes in the temperature of it between the batch tank and the output wand in this case?
Kaisha [00:34:10]:
Amazing. Thank you so much for that, Jason. All right, I don't know if any other. No more live queues are coming in, but just want to remind you all we are focusing on arroyago today. If you did not hear the overview, go head over to arroyago IO. You can get all the information right there, including some faqs. And then we are shipping in January, pre order. Now you're going to save $1,000.
Kaisha [00:34:32]:
Oh, Trichome Valley just dropped a follow up question. They just wrote, with the vast amount of heat being output by a 1000 watt de light, how far away should your plants be in flower?
Jason [00:34:46]:
Yeah, most of the time I like to have a minimum of three or 4ft from my hps. And that's exactly right. You got a lot of heat coming off those things. Pretty substantial amount of far reds. That's basically heating up the surface of that leaf as well as the ambient temperature that's going to be increased by those hps. So at a very minimum, I personally would like to have a very minimum of three to 4ft.
Kaisha [00:35:19]:
Perfect. Thank you for. Right. Oh, all right. Got another live questions are still coming in. I love it. All right, Indiva had another question. Here they write, can you start the PPfD ramp a week prior to flower so you can be at full ppfd at day one versus using the week to ramp up to day seven?
Jason [00:35:41]:
We can give it a shot. Yeah. Some strains love that. Some are a little bit fussier as far as how quickly we get that turned up. And a lot of it's going to depend on how long is our veg cycle and what is your max PpFD that you can reach. If you can only hit, say, 700, 800 ppfd most of the time in flour, that is, as your max, then most of the time you're already going to be pretty close to that full DLI by the end of your veg cycle. And so, as we talked about, when we are in veg, we're on an 18 hours cycle. So that means that when we get to flower, we want to be at least 33% higher.
Jason [00:36:22]:
Right. Because we have 6 hours less to provide the same amount of energy to the plant. So we'll need to make sure that intensity gets upped the first day that we drop down to the twelve hour light cycle. So those are things that I would consider. All right, what is my Max PPFD? How long am I vegging for? And or do I have certain strains that will suck that light right up? Answer those questions and give it a shot.
Kaisha [00:36:49]:
All right, indeva, you heard it. Good luck. Give it a shot. Come back to us. Let us know what happens. All right, Jason, I think we're going to go ahead and wrap up. Thank you so much for giving an overview on AROYAgo. Anything else you want to say before we sign off?
Jason [00:37:04]:
No, I think you can check it out. What is it? Royago IO.
Kaisha [00:37:07]:
You want to go to AROYAgo IO? We are preordering now save $1,000. So you want to do that 24 99 shipping next month? Very exciting stuff. Yeah, that's it. Thanks for showing everybody all that goodness, Jason, and for rocking the show solo, as always, producer Chris, thank you so much for another great session. And thank you all for joining us for this week's AROYA office hours. We do this every Thursday and the best way to get answers from the experts is to join us live to learn more about AROYA book a demo at AROYA IO. One of our experts will walk you through all the ways the platform can improve your cultivation production process. And while you're there, be sure to sign up for our newsletter to stay up to speed on all things arroya.
Kaisha [00:37:48]:
If you have a topic you'd like us to cover on office hours, post questions anytime in the Aroya app. Drop your questions in the chat or on our YouTube. Send us a DM. Send us an email to sales at aroya IO. Hit us up on all the socials, Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, LinkedIn, and social club. We definitely want to hear from you. We'll send everybody in attendance a link to today's video and post it on the Aro YouTube channel. Be sure to like, subscribe and share while you are there.
Kaisha [00:38:13]:
Thank you so much everybody. We'll see you next time. Bye.