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Seth Baumgartner and Jason Van Leuven open the mics for your crop steering and cultivation questions.
Kaisha [00:00:04]:
You. What's up, gromies? Welcome to AROYA office hours, your source for free cannabis cultivation education. I'm your moderator, Kaisha. We are on episode 93. 93 crazy. If you're on the hangout checking us out live on YouTube or Instagram, drop your question in the chat, and if it gets picked, we will cover it during the show. Seth and Jason, how you doing, guys?
Seth [00:00:28]:
Good.
Jason [00:00:28]:
Doing great.
Kaisha [00:00:29]:
Good. Awesome. All right, well, we're going to get right to it. And actually, this is a really fun one. We have a follow up. Last week we got a question from Dr. Green thumb Aaron. He was dealing with a mixed light greenhouse and he was getting some reveg by the heater and wanted to know what they could do to stop reveg.
Kaisha [00:00:48]:
So one of Seth's clients dropped in a response. I'm going to read it out loud here. I listen to your podcast all the time, and I was listening last week, and someone named Dr. Green Thumb Aaron asked a question about reveg near his heater in the greenhouse. Pretty sure I know the answer. We dealt with this for almost two years before I figured it out. The heat exchanger is likely cracked and it is off gassing some type of emissions near the heater that is causing delayed flower onset and funny growth, which looks like reveg, but really, the plants never fully flower in that area. I hope you can share this information to save other people's significant loss of money and time.
Kaisha [00:01:27]:
Thanks for all your help over the years. Just trying to pay it forward.
Seth [00:01:30]:
Take care, Billy.
Kaisha [00:01:31]:
We appreciate you, Billy. Jason, anything you want to add to that feedback?
Jason [00:01:35]:
Yeah, pretty fun. It looked like on YouTube we had some people chiming in there as well. I think one of them know, depending on the type of heater, there could possibly be some infrared coming off of that heater as good. Good time to dig in and look at your heater.
Seth [00:01:54]:
Yeah, I mean, it's great to look into. We've seen different scenarios where, whether it's a heater or a malfunctioning co2 burner, let's say we end up with an atmosphere that's not really great for plants or people or anything. So if you've got high levels of hydrocarbon gas and or carbon monoxide in that area, that's definitely going to affect plant growth. And it, to me, totally makes sense why it'd be localized in that area. Right. You've got a really high concentration of these gases, and it dissipates pretty quickly across the room, but it's always high near that heater. So got to thank Billy for emailing me on that one. That was pretty cool.
Kaisha [00:02:33]:
Yeah, for real. Goes to show, you got to look at all kinds of things when you're dealing with trying to find a solution, including what's going on with the rest of your equipment. Right. Cool. All right, let's get into some questions. So we got this right in here. Someone writes, hello, I've got something that's been plaguing me for years, and I can't seem to figure out what's causing it. My plants look great.
Kaisha [00:02:52]:
They eat vigorously till the end of week three, but for whatever reason after that, the calyxes stop growing and the buds start filling out super early, as if it's already week six. By week seven, they look like they're almost done, and I end up getting a nice. Getting a bunch of nice smalls and super low yield. Something I've noticed is the middle buds often end up being larger than the tops. Please help. I'm drowning in popcorn. What do you guys think?
Jason [00:03:19]:
Could be a number of things going on. Since we usually are talking about irrigation in relationship to plant growth, we could think about possibly maybe a strain that doesn't respond to the specific irrigations that they're applying in there. So it could possibly be that they're running a more generative irrigation, and then they don't get any bulking on those buds. So they get, obviously good, nice nugs, but not to the size that they want. Maybe they're hand watering, so they don't have the option of doing multiple irrigations a day very easily. That would probably be one of the first things that I'd look into is, all right, what's the irrigation schedule look like? What are the cues that the plant is receiving through those, obviously environmental wise as well. We could look at some of the other cues that we talk about for how the plant responds to that. And there also could be a number of miscellaneous things, obviously, what's going on in the substrate as far as nutrient management itself.
Jason [00:04:22]:
Yeah. So that's the first place that I'd try to look at, is documenting irrigation types and how the plant is responding to that.
Seth [00:04:29]:
Yeah. Without knowing the strain. And even if you did tell us the strain, there's a good chance neither of us have specifically grown that one. We do see quite a few that don't respond well to typical bulking strategies. There's still a lot of genetic variation in cannabis, and we oftentimes see strains come through that don't behave the same way we expect. And one thing that, as Jason said, running know pretty much all the way through can have a result on is small bud size. That's a big part of it. One thing I would really want to do, too, is start looking at your ec in the root zone and your ph coming out of that, and see if we've hit a point where we're actually kind of riding high past the point of diminishing returns, where we're actually restricting growth in the plant.
Seth [00:05:12]:
And sometimes when that happens, we do see a shorter overall maturity time, and usually that's also equated with a lower quality product as well. Otherwise, really make sure everything in your environment is up to par. When you've got, for instance, like, let's say, low ec and too high a light, we can see a lack of growth and a lot of stress on the plant. Low co2 with too much light, we'll see more stress on the plant. There's a lot of little factors that can go into it. And another thing that we'll always go back to, really start documenting those strain specific changes, because the deeper all of us have gotten into growing all these different varieties of cannabis across North America and the world, we're seeing, hey, there's some general trends, but like I said, there's enough genetic variation where we do know, like on the west coast, a lot of the talks about candies lately, there are some genetics we've run into in there that don't respond well, know our normal steering strategies. So what's the goal there, then? Now, once you realize, like, hey, I've got my basic gen. Veg gen.
Seth [00:06:20]:
And the way I run my other plants, this one's not responding. At that point, we'll go, hey, usually back off on your veg a little bit and just start to document everything you possibly can about that plant, because sometimes we'll see strains that really do just behave very different than expected. And then also weigh that with always say, commercial viability is the product you're getting or the value on that strain high enough to make it worth it to solve the problem, which is a hard thing to get over as cultivators, because we always think like, hey, that's part of the challenge, right? We're solving problems, but sometimes you'll run into a genetic variety that just doesn't produce as much, and that's a pretty big reality. So just document as much as possible all the way through.
Kaisha [00:07:09]:
Yes, crop registration. We say it almost every episode. Cypher dropped some thoughts in here. He wrote, could light intensity and or the heat from your lights be a factor since he mentioned buds being better.
Seth [00:07:23]:
Lower in the canopy, it definitely know if you go ahead and break out your good old laser thermometer, if you have one, or ideally a pretty nice one, you can start to look at those temperature differences on the plant. Usually when we see that plant surface temperature start to go, especially the bud and the leaf temperature go above 85 86 degrees, we'll typically see not very tight bud formation, loose foxtails, et cetera, and that temperature gradient can cause different rates of growth across the plant. So that is definitely. Thanks, Cypher. Another thing to be looking at.
Kaisha [00:08:00]:
Excellent. Thank you guys. And Cypher, thanks for your feedback. All right, I'm going to keep it going. We got this question in from Dave Ray. If we are running coco one gallon pots with field capacity at 45% to 50%, but we're drying back fast in weeks one through three and need to water after p ones, should we add p ones at like a 5% dryback interval during the day to achieve the uninterrupted dryback overnight? Or should we just let it dry back again after p one and bring it up to field capacity again 1 hour or so before lights off with a large shot? We're drying back to 25% water content within about 8 hours after p one and have been trying to keep that our floor. Should we lower the floor to 20% or so? Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
Kaisha [00:08:52]:
And let me know if you need.
Seth [00:08:53]:
Me to run through those numbers again.
Jason [00:08:56]:
I think we got them. Yeah, it's a great question. A few options here. Just to start off kind of at the end of the question would be 25% floor in coco. You could probably go a little bit lower than that. If we were hit going from 45 to 25, that's a nice generative 20% dry back. It wouldn't bother me to see that at 25%. If you're at 50% near field capacity and we're getting down to 20%, that's pushing pretty hard.
Jason [00:09:25]:
Generative most likely, if your nutrients can correspond with that. And so it sounds like you're kind of probably hitting things perfect. That being said, if you are concerned about that, there's two easy options there to solve it. And the first would be think about your substrate size. We talk about that in this show quite a bit, is if our drybacks are too large, then sometimes for the size of plant we need a little bit more water holding capacity. Overall total water holding capacity. And then just to address how, as far as irrigating with p ones throughout the day, I probably wouldn't do it throughout the day. What you can do is there's kind of two options.
Jason [00:10:08]:
If you have, say like a 1 hour irrigation window at the beginning, if we need to balance out our strategy a little bit, our generative strategy, let's say that the queues are plenty enough for that strain. We can just widen up our irrigation window slightly. So maybe go from 1 hour to get to field capacity to 2 hours to get to field capacity. And then the other option there would be is if you still are trying to push generative really hard and you feel like those drybacks are too much before the next irrigation or before the irrigation the next day, I wouldn't get to field capacity one or 2 hours before lights off. What I would do is just try and add enough water to keep you above your floor. Right. So let's say we hit field capacity at that 45%, and let's say you're hitting 20% field capacity, the next day your floor is 25%. So 1 hour before lights off, I would probably do a 5% irrigation, or even better, two and a half percent irrigations fairly.
Seth [00:11:15]:
Subsequently.
Jason [00:11:16]:
There you go. I appreciate it.
Seth [00:11:19]:
Yeah, I mean, that's kind of usually what we're looking at. Number one, if you're hitting a point before week three where you're having to put on supplemental shots in the afternoon as a p two, that's probably a good sign that we either want to veg for a shorter amount of time, get a smaller plant, or look at upping to perhaps a two gallon media from the one gallon. Just as Jason said, there's a few options that you can do. My favorite is to look at beginning my corrective irrigation at 2 hours before lights off, or even three, depending on how many benches in the room. I'm going to have to irrigate just to take that into account. And basically, we're looking to correct by about the amount that you think you're going to over dry. So if you're looking back over like, let's say the last week, and we're seeing that, hey, I've only put on p ones and I'm ending up at 25, then the next day it's 22, then the next day it's 20. And I actually have a fairly predictable idea of where I'm going to end up the next morning, all I'm going to do is correct by a little more than the amount that I need to not over dry.
Seth [00:12:18]:
So if I'm going to go 5% past where my floor is, I'm going to correct by probably 5% to 8% and just maintain that. And then the other thing we're looking at, too, when we're talking about how far to push your drybacks, especially in coco, that's where getting some EC measurements is really important. If in that time span, you're starting to stack up a pretty good EC stack, let's say in the five to eight range, and you're swinging up to 1214 on a dryback. When we start looking at that floor for drybacks, we're also taking into consideration how much osmotic pressure we're putting on that plant. So if I've got more EC in the substrate and I'm drying back, I might see that EC start to get drastically higher at a certain point. Whether that's 22%, whether that's 18, whether that's 15, it depends on how much salinity I actually have built up in that block. So I want to make sure that even if I drive them down to 20, if my EC starts spiking really high, I know that I might be pushing it with that plant and probably altering the amount of productivity it can get in in a given time frame. If we dry down too far, that EC gets too high right when the lights turn back on.
Seth [00:13:27]:
If there's too much osmotic stress, we're losing out on plant productivity for a few hours. So there's kind of a fine line to dance between applying enough of that osmotic pressure and not drying back too far to the point where we're actually stressing the plant in a negative way. When we talk about plant stress on here, we're really fooling the plant in terms of stress. We put this plant in an ideal environment for growth. We're controlling everything it needs, and we're not actually trying with our drybacks to push it to a point that's going to put the plant into true drought stress. We're just trying to influence the way it's growing and what's going on inside the plant to affect the morphology. So I think that's a good thing to keep in mind when we're talking about where to set these dryback floors. And just like Jason said, 20% is a great floor.
Seth [00:14:19]:
The more metering you're doing, the more measuring, the better idea you have on where to draw that floor, too. I've been in situations where I'm watching all these plants go along. I've got a pretty like. From day one, my coco ranged from 45% to 60%. Particularly bad batch. Let's say it's really uneven. That's where I'm going to be more conservative and say, hey, if I push 20, I know I've probably got some down pushing, temporary wilting point down at like 15 or below. So that's also where I'm going to make that choice in trying to make the best choice for the average distribution of plants, not necessarily the best choice for the best ones or the best choice for the worst ones, but trying to hit that average and keeping that average conservative, it's not terribly hard.
Seth [00:15:07]:
But the more you can look at your population as a whole and start working with averages and then working on consistency, the easier it is to make some of these choices.
Kaisha [00:15:16]:
For sure. Love it. Thank you, guys. Dave, thank you for that question. All right, we got a question here in the chat from one of the gromies. They want to know, is there a modbus connection capacity with an aroya deployment? And that's for either the Aroya go or Aroya core.
Jason [00:15:37]:
So there is possibly a certain deployment out there somewhere in the world that does have some modbus connections going. We are working on getting that into the production capacity for aroya. So early stages of that, as far as a native connector, native integration is in the roadmap for deployment. So obviously, if you don't want to wait, you're welcome to use our open API and just build out a data connector from that API to a Modbus format.
Kaisha [00:16:14]:
Cool. Thank you, guys. All right. And speaking of aroya go chronic Sosa dropped a comment on YouTube here. Just got my aroya in the mail and had a question. Should I compress the coco really hard where the probe sensor goes? Also, what is the best way to make holes in a square one gallon pot for the Aroya sensor?
Jason [00:16:37]:
Good questions. We've both seen this a ton where a lot of times data might not be the best to make decisions off of coming down to installation consistency, just installation practices. That's one of the reasons that we early on started chipping with our template tools. So I love this question. It's very important when you get things set up compressing your coco, where the sensor is going in, try to avoid it. Absolutely not. We want that pot to be as consistent as possible, as uniform, so that the area we are sensing with the prongs is representative of that entire volume. That's going to help us make sure that the water contents and the ecs that we're getting are representing the entire pot.
Jason [00:17:21]:
So the volume of influence for the aroya sensors is about one liter. So you think about a little bit larger than my fist, probably. Think of pop can. How much liters that is? What's that, two.
Seth [00:17:38]:
No, not one liter.
Jason [00:17:41]:
Yeah. If you reshape that a little bit fatter and square cylinder, then that's the volume that the terrorist is monitoring. And so when we are using these measurements, we're kind of making the assumption that, hey, the consistency in this substrate is enough that this volume that we're measuring is going to represent what the roots are interacting with. That's the first answer and then the second answer. For square hard pots, they can be a little bit easier than round hard pots. For round, hot, hard pots, we always recommend making a cutout in the pot itself so that sensor can stick past the round part, which we had some pictures here, I think I'm on my computer somewhere. And for the TEROS twelve s, you can use like an oscillating tool, or you can use a really sharp knife, utility knife. I've had some people use just a heated blade that works pretty well to melt through and make a clean cut.
Jason [00:18:44]:
Always try not to disturb your root zone too much. So don't be like, just going all the way in when you're making those cutouts, especially if you got live plants in there. And then making sure that that TEROS twelve is sunk nice. For the TEROS one, you got lucky. We can use a hole saw and just punch that in there for the round, hard pots. Now, back to the question. I got a little sidetracked for the square hard pots. Most of the time, as long as the hard pots or the plastic is not too thick in that hard pot, you can actually just mark it.
Jason [00:19:17]:
So use your sensor installation template, and then just gently or mediumly gentle poke it so that it marks where those prongs are. And I think it's an eight inch drill bit that you can just drill through the hard pots where those three prongs are at. The idea is that, hey, hopefully how thin that hard pot is isn't affecting the sensor readings too drastically. That being said, if you do have any concerns, and you don't want to be gambling whether the hard pot is modifying your sensor readings, then you can make a full cutout in the square one as well.
Seth [00:19:55]:
Yeah, and in regards to packing that, I think I just want to reinforce. It is really important to get a representative sample. And if you're hand packing pots, that obviously introduces a variable into the equation. We're talking about that. So there's a few strategies to kind of look at. Jason, Chris and I here in the room are maybe a little height different, but all probably pretty close in weight. If we were packing pots together, we wouldn't have Keisha working on the same project because we're probably going to pack them in a little harder. So now we've got four people at 25% variable where we know, hey, one person might not physically be able to pack it in there as hard.
Seth [00:20:33]:
So you definitely want to look at that. And also, when you are looking at how you're packing those pots, that consistency is really important because we want that water to drain down in a certain way. If we've got too little porosity high up and we're holding water in a spot in the pot where the roots aren't actually uptaking it, that's going to contribute to things like root rot right in the core of the root ball compared to if we have pretty evenly consistent media and we actually allow that water to work with gravity, percolate down to where it needs to be, and get up taken by the plant. So if you are still in hand filling pots, really pay attention to that and understand some of the differences between working with, like, royal Gold's tupper is something I've used quite a bit in the past, that we would add some perlite to it sometimes, sometimes not. But knowing that we have that perlite content, that hard pack is a lot more important compared to writing straight coco, that might have a heavy pith content, and we don't have to pack it in really tight to get good water holding and even water holding capacity.
Kaisha [00:21:37]:
Great overview, you guys. Thank you so much. All right, chronic Sosa, good luck with your aroya. Go keep us posted. Okay, another one of our gromies dropped a question here in the chat. They want to know how long would you soak Hugo? Six x six x six for? I'm finding that some blocks are only reaching 60 water holding capacity. Thanks so much.
Jason [00:21:59]:
Yeah, typically we see Hugo is between about 60 and 70% most of the time. Yeah, you should be able to see 65%. For me, I like to have them soaked at least an hour at the minimum. Yeah, sure. That seems like a processing constraint just because you got a lot of blocks to get soaked. How long can we leave those in our tub for before we get the next batch in there? So for me, that's kind of the minimum, just because a lot of times, 1530 minutes out, you'll still see some bubbles rising out of the rockwool.
Seth [00:22:34]:
I would agree. And if you are really stuck on using Rockwell, that's definitely something to look at in your process and seeing where do you need to invest in some deeper flood tables to have the ability to really give these things a good long soak and do it in a way that's economical. My favorite example is get yourself some flood tables that can hold the amount of plants you intend on transplanting at any given clone into Hugo action and load them up in the morning. Flood that table, walk away, come back, top them off, walk away, do it again, go to lunch, build it into your data, force yourself to be patient, because it is really tempting to try to run those things through as quick as possible. But with rockwool, that is such an important step that it's worth it to try to not run it as quickly as possible and build that into your schedule in a way that's going to ensure that you get the best result and not chance getting anything other than the best result.
Jason [00:23:29]:
Another important thing here as well is to think about physically what's going in the block. And when you get those blocks, they're impregnated with a surfactant with a wetting agent. And if we aren't filling all the pores, then it's going to be hard to wash out the contents of all of that surfactant. And we want to make sure that we're starting with a clean start. This is one of the reasons that buy the manuals from typical Rockwell manufacturers. It has a start with a little bit lower ph than what's going to be in the substrate, ideally, and so keep that in mind as well. So if you're seeing some side effects on the blocks that aren't up to that 65% yield capacity, there might be some other things going on in there that will affect the plant as well.
Seth [00:24:15]:
Yeah, that's a good point, Jason. Anytime we've got media prep as a process, we're looking at whether it is Rockwell or coco, we want to get that minimum soak time to really satisfy the physical properties of the media. Make sure we're actually hitting that full field capacity. But whether it is coco or rockwool, there are residuals that we typically want to wash out. That way, when we go to charge it with the nutrient solution, we have full control over what we're putting in and not dealing with any unwanted things such as a surfactant or high sodium content. If you're in coco and it's just good practice, there's certain safeguards. Anytime you have to bring something into your facility, whether it's plants, media, tools, whatever, you want to have a little measure of not only biosecurity, but also in maintaining consistency. Just because we know we're working with mass produced products that do involve some variability, and if we don't build in redundant steps to make it happen, it's pretty easy to get lazy and then get caught off guard one day when you, for instance, hydrate.
Seth [00:25:17]:
I've done this, hydrate several hundred coco blocks, go transplant clones into them and go like, oh, man, those look really sad in a few days. But then you kind of notice like, hey, every time we water these, like, straight red runs off of these blocks. And then you go test that and you're like, oh, this is really salty. And then you go, oh, yeah, coconuts are grown by salt water sodium. You go down that road and then realize like, hey, we skipped the step. If we just stuck to the program, did that step every time, then we don't have to worry about it. It's less of like, hey, we need to have eyes on what the EC and the ph coming out. Our blocks are like, oh, no, we have a process where we hydrate and flush and we know we're good.
Jason [00:25:59]:
Yeah, kind of going back when we are working with coco, it's kind of a good practice to do runoff tests. Anytime that you're getting. If you're switching manufacturers 100%, do some runoff tests. If you've got a big batch that you don't have a super consistent supplier, definitely test it batch by batch to see that maybe this time we need to give them just a slight bit more care when we're trying to get that substrate buffered. Originally, when Coco is manufactured, most of the manufacturers, or what I've seen of manufacturers is they'll grind it up from the husk and they'll leave it out in a warehouse yard. And basically what they're doing is getting it washed by the rain and or sprinklers. Certain manufacturers do add some calcium to their sprinklers to help buffer any of the solubles that are in that coco husk. So kind of keep that in mind when you're working with coco.
Jason [00:26:58]:
Any natural product like that, Rockwool, for the most part, is pretty consistent for manufacturer.
Seth [00:27:05]:
Yeah, personally, I like to test it per pallet or per batch, depending on what kind of documentation I'm getting from the supplier. At the minimum, it's so variable. And with Rockwell, we do see some quite a bit better consistency. But again, think about what the price of that Hugo is. It's not 14 or $20, which is what I would expect to pay for something that is supremely consistent. So there's going to be a little bit of variability there. And yeah, I would honestly say this is one of the things that I feel like is most overlooked in Rockwell preparation. And what actually discourages a lot of people from using it initially is failure to properly hydrate from the beginning.
Seth [00:27:46]:
They don't get the water holding capacity that Rockwell can offer and that you can take advantage of. Then as a result, they've got low water content, low water potential, and subsequently low yields. So it's a pretty straight track to making you decide that Rockwell is not for you if you miss this critical.
Jason [00:28:04]:
I mean, these issues have happened quite a bit in the history. One of the largest manufacturers of Rockwell, one of the early ones in the industry, they had switched some of their manufacturing over to Canada when the United States started being a large consumer of Rockwell and there was a few batches. Well, I don't know exactly how to attribute a few, but a fairly large issue that came from some of the new manufacturing that was going on. So just keep in mind that like Seth said, the stuff is a commodity product. They're trying to get it to you as cheap as they can so that they're competitive in the market and that you can grow as much as you can as cheaply as you can. So just keep it in mind. Everyone's doing the best they can to be consistent, but the reality is on the scale that we're seeing these days, it's just about economies.
Kaisha [00:29:01]:
Great overview, you guys. All right, we're going to keep it moving. We're getting some lot of live questions in. All right, this one's from Instagram. They're asking what's the proper procedure when runoff is 5.3 and EC is 4.6? What should I set my ph at to combat these issues?
Jason [00:29:22]:
Hopefully with an EC of 4.6 you're probably feeding sufficiently. Probably. So a couple of things to check here would be obviously the very first thing I would check. What is my feed ph? If you're having an issue there, which I've run into quite a bit actually, people will have a slightly different ph at their mixing tanks than at the end of their drippers. So I definitely recommend take some actual drip readings, a lot of dripper. Or if you got some extra drippers in line, which is pretty good thing to be doing, just check it right there. Make sure that it's what you expect it to be. Right.
Jason [00:30:03]:
And then if our feed is substrate, I'm guessing substrate EC at 4.6, that might be borderline at the lower end, depending on how hungry your strain is. And so one of the first things that you could do is probably the easiest thing would just be up your feed ecs slightly, maybe a half point EC, and see if that helps fix it. It's not going to be immediate. It's probably going to take a few days to bring that ph back up as it replenishes the substrate with some of the missing nutrients and balances out the nutrient composition in there. And then obviously, kind of one of the last steps in order to rectify it would be raising your feed ph, which is probably the least of ideal of the options. But it does work. Yeah.
Seth [00:30:48]:
And I want to highlight that raising your feed ph, there's a limit to how far you want to go before you're going to run into problems. Usually we draw that line at about 6.5. And when you do raise that ph, you've got to think about what you're putting in there to raise that ph. Depending on what it is. If you have to put enough in, like if we're trying to take it all the way above seven, we're actually probably affecting the nutrient composition of that mix. Same as if we have to use a lot of, let's say, phosphoric acid to get it from 7.5 down to 5.8 to 6.0. But really what we're looking at is that ionic balance in there. So in these situations, that's typically where I would jump up.
Seth [00:31:22]:
If you're feeding at a 3.0, jump up to a three five, feed a little bit heavier. Make sure you're getting ten to 15% total feed volume as your runoff, and then just be patient for a few days. If you caught it at five, two to five three. If you're not seeing any symptoms of deficiency in the plant, it's probably early enough to correct that and avoid any issues. If you have measured a 5.2 and you're seeing like, hey, I've got some marginal leaf necrosis, I've got some browning. Clearly this plant is going into quote unquote lockout or it looks sick. That means we've got to take corrective action earlier next time. That means it's been an occurring problem that slowly happened over, let's say, the last week or two, and then next round we'll go, okay, well, we ran into an issue with ph on this run.
Seth [00:32:10]:
We're going to make sure we get that run off at least every other day, maybe even every single day, just to make sure we're keeping that in line because there are a lot of small factors that can affect that depending on what kind of nutrient line you're running, what your incoming water quality is, how long your water sits in the lines in between irrigations, that can affect that reading between the tank and the tables. And you really just want to be aware of some of those small changes so that you're actually addressing the root of the problem and not band aiding somewhere else. That's not going to affect it. And that's why we say like, hey, if I'm at a five two, if you go and feed it like a seven, that's not necessarily going to solve the problem. That'll quickly correct the ph in the root zone, but 12 hours later it's going to be right back at that same reading you were getting. So you want to make sure you're actually treating the problem. And then also if you've at 4.6, that's not super high ec. But let's say we're running into some of these same issues at a six or seven ec or even an eight, which are also not uncommon numbers to see as a baseline out there.
Seth [00:33:10]:
If I react by trying to raise my ph really high and then flush a bunch of water through, I'm going to strip a lot of those ions out of solution in there. So effectively, if I drop my ph from eight down to four, I've cut that osmotic pressure in half. And now that's a pretty big adjustment for the plant to make. And it's going to force the plant to adjust to that new condition and spend energy doing it, whereas we want that plant to spend energy growing during that time frame.
Jason [00:33:40]:
Yeah, and one of the things here is if you're in Rockwell, seeing some runoff at five three is just borderline past what would concern me if I'm in Rockwell, I'm always shooting for 5.6. So something like five four or five eight on either sides of that, that's not going to bother me at all. But yeah, you're just right on the edge. If you're in coco, then it's definitely probably time to take some action.
Seth [00:34:05]:
Yeah, that's a good point, Jason. If you're going in at like, let's say five six and we see a drop to five four or five three, and then we're looking at the graph and saying, hey, my EC is not spiking really high at the end of my dryback. In fact, I'm seeing a fairly flat line. We can start to monitor the plant in a way where we know, like, hey, this is positive confirmation that that plant is feeding. I'm seeing that EC being pulled out of the media. PH is going down, which tells me that the plant is pulling negative ions out of the solution. Okay, the plant's doing what I want to. It's feeding.
Seth [00:34:37]:
In most cases, we should see a slight shift from input EC to runoff EC downward. Not huge, usually 0.2 to 0.3, but it's a good indicator. And just like Jason said, if you're in Rockwell, maybe don't worry about it. Maybe push a little bit heavier, higher feed to try to get that back in range. But make sure that it's not some. Always look at your plants. If this is the first time you run into this issue, one of the best things you can do is snap a picture, archive it somewhere where you've got some good labeling, and you can go back and say, hey, what did this strain look like at week three with a 5.3 ph runoff? Ph of 5.9, input ph and Ec. Hey, here's what it looks like.
Seth [00:35:21]:
Here's this shade of green. Now, in the future, when I'm trying to diagnose that, if I see some variation in any of those numbers, I can have a reference and say, oh, well, with these numbers, this plant looked horrible, it was bad. Or, hey, I know it's trending down, but this plant seems to take it. All of these plants have a certain tolerance range for various factors, including ph. So that's why we talk about some plants that will tolerate a much higher EC for the entire duration of the round versus other ones that want a lower EC. Part of our job as cultivators is documenting that and really starting to nail down some of those strain specific things to be looking for, especially in the world where if you're at all in commercial cultivation in certain markets, you might have to run 18 to 30 different strains all the time. So learning some of those differences is really important. That way, if you've got someone trying to manage a room with ten plus strains in it and they have a hard set of rules, they can know that, hey, at 5.3, this plan actually seems to be okay.
Seth [00:36:24]:
But if our runoff tests start to show below a 5.0, maybe that's where we draw corrective action. And personally, 5.0 is where I definitely start to draw a line and say, hey, I need to take corrective action. 5.3. I'm going to take runoff the next day and make sure it's not drifting down.
Kaisha [00:36:42]:
Nice. Thank you guys for that sweet. All right, we got another question from Instagram. I really appreciate this one. They write, I work at a nursery and was wondering if there's any tips on how I can transplant my clones into a veg room with a higher par reading around 350. The clones are under led at around 250.
Jason [00:37:07]:
Do it at the right age, they should handle that jump pretty easily as long as they're well rooted. And hopefully they are well rooted by the time that you're at 250 ppfd. So tips would just be make sure that you're irrigating appropriately for that age and keeping an eye on what those water contents are. We always want to make sure we're supplying fresh nutrients, but we're not over irrigating because we want to exercise those roots so that they're seeking out new water and engulfing the new media.
Seth [00:37:41]:
Yeah, and make sure you can keep up with your humidification needs. That's a huge one. I know. Again, as cultivators, we'll all get jaded from being in this hot, wet room all the time. But your bedroom, actually, depending on the plant population in there and how much biomass you have, a lot of times we see a huge fluctuation in humidity from when you're taking teens out to bringing clones in. And sometimes it can take a lot more humidification capacity to keep that humidity above 70% and make sure that your clones you're putting in aren't immediately over dried out and we do some leaf damage. So that's one thing I've seen people who are really starting to push production capacity struggle with. Because if we're switching from a six week veg and getting it all the way down to two, part of what that six week veg was doing was accounting for other inefficiencies.
Seth [00:38:30]:
We weren't just overgrowing the plant, but six weeks means okay, if we can get our humidity under control. Yeah, I could wait ten days until I put on a good irrigation. And that's not. Absolutely not the goal here. So make sure all those factors are in line. And a 250 to 350 jump is usually a pretty darn good move, provided that you're actually hitting 250 in your clone room. Typically I see it in about the 150 to 200 range. So just make sure you're keeping all your parameters in line.
Seth [00:39:01]:
And when you are cloning, make sure your clone tech all the way through is good. You're cloning with healthy moms. I know we kind of hammer on that here. Make sure your moms are healthy. If you're not achieving well over a 90% success rate with your cloning. You need to take a serious look at your sops, because even though you have surviving clones, there's probably a lot that are coming in with bacterial contamination. So, hey, it all looks good. But eventually the roots become so infected with various different kinds of bacteria or fungus that the plant will just hit a point and stall out and then die.
Seth [00:39:34]:
It can only grow so big if the plumbing down below doesn't bring water up. Right. So make sure everything is checked off. That's kind of all of our advice here, usually, is go back to the holistic approach. Right. Make sure you're not missing anything.
Kaisha [00:39:48]:
All about that holistic approach. On the subject of moms, that's a perfect segue. Incredible. We got this question on YouTube. Someone wrote, my moms sometimes show some pre flour. Why?
Jason [00:40:02]:
Because they want to make marijuana.
Seth [00:40:06]:
That's something to seriously talk about here, though, keeping moms for too long. A lot of strains that we've shown will tend to. There's a few factors to consider here. If I've got a mom that I'm growing for six months or a year in, let's say, a ten or 15 or 20 gallon pot, throughout that entire growth cycle, I have accumulated, most likely, a lot of biodiversity in the root zone, much of which is not going to be beneficial for my plant. Over that time, too, I'm going to have a build up of dead organic matter in there. So basically, I'm making a nice little bacterial soup going on down there, and it's really hard to maintain good mom health. So you have this slight level of stress that's slowly building on your mom over time. And just like when we see a fully female cannabis plant, shoot out some pollen towards the end of the run, shoot out some stamens when it's ultra stressed, we're seeing that same kind of reaction in the moms.
Seth [00:41:01]:
They're hitting a point where the plant's response is trying to reproduce, because biologically, it's becoming unfeasible to keep surviving if you want to kind of anthropomorphize it and put reason behind plants doing what they do. So, yeah, basically, if your moms are pre flowering, most likely you need to freshen them up. Or when we talk about the difference between photoperiod and autoflower plants, it's more of a sliding scale and less of a one or the other. So we definitely run into strains that lean to be closer, and usually those are what we'd call an autoflower or shorter flowering strain. If I have a strain that I consider it finished at 54 days, there might be a good chance that those moms tend to preflower over time. So usually go back, keep your moms young, and then understand, too that if you do have a pre flowering mom and you try to cut off of it, you're better off trying to regrow new moms than you are trying to actually run the cuts through around. You're most likely to end up with some strange single leaf reveg, odd loose bud formation, and in my experience, generally lower yielding plants when I try to run those clones. So best advice, make sure your moms are young, fresh, and then, hey, again, write it down if you remember that, hey, this strain does that every time, then you can make a hard, fast rule and go, okay, when we want to grow, there's a cut we had years ago called Durango that its moms would do that after about two and a half months.
Seth [00:42:35]:
I was like, okay, if we want to grow that and have it turn out, which honestly, that strain rarely did turn out very good. But if we want to have good success with that, we got to plan like two to three months ahead of when we actually want to make the cut for that production run so that we've got a good crop of moms coming up that can actually give us the healthy clones we need to get through that cycle and have success.
Jason [00:42:57]:
Yeah. And hopefully this isn't stating the obvious, but go back and look at the light readings or your security cameras to make sure that your light schedule is something that's keeping those plants in a vegetative status. So make sure the plants are getting enough light that they're not going into flower because of their photo period reaction.
Seth [00:43:17]:
Yeah. My classic example. Hey, your bedroom gets sprayed. Let's say your mom room gets sprayed twice a week. What's your scheduling like? Is there a possibility that someone turns off the lights because they're trying to get out of there early, going and spraying? They don't want to do it late at night, which who does, let's be honest. But in my experience in the past, something as simple as someone turning off a controller switch, and no one else looked at that controller switch for two weeks because it's the mom room. No one's in there. Never happened.
Seth [00:43:48]:
No, exactly. Don't discount the simplest of problems. Right. And no one's ever proud to admit that that's what happened. Something that simple. But don't rule out the most basic of errors because, man, that's like the best surprise right it sucks when you find something and you feel stupid. But when the fix is ultra, ultra simple, that's also a way better outlook for everything involved in this. Rather than going like, okay, we've eliminated everything and it's still pre flowering.
Seth [00:44:22]:
Okay, now we've got a much deeper discussion on what could be going on inside that plant to cause it that we'll go back to if we ever get down to the root cause. The conclusion is that you shouldn't be growing it sometimes in your facility if it's going to cost too much and not perform for you.
Jason [00:44:44]:
I think one of my favorite things about getting to the root cause of what's going on there is making a change in your process so that it doesn't have to happen again. Right. If it is a human error, then let's try and figure out something in the process that eliminates it. Even the best of us are forgetful sometimes, or we start getting too busy or doing too many things at once and get absent minded. So just whatever it takes to get a heads up, get an alert, get a warning, stop that kind of stuff from happening in the future.
Seth [00:45:19]:
Yeah, just some of the simplest things. Light timers is a huge one. I can't think of how many times I've talked to people and it's like, man, why are we having these weird morphology herms whatever in one corner of the room, and it's like, go look at your security cameras. And it's like, oh, yeah, every light in the room shuts off except one. Unfortunately, there's some, I don't want to say bad programming out there, but there are some features on certain products that aren't confusing. Yeah, it's confusing. It's not quite intuitive to what you would think a grow we would want in our application. But, hey, it's there, it exists.
Seth [00:45:55]:
And if you're not aware of it, you can butt your head a lot of other places before you find a real simple solution. Like in the light timer case. Replacing your light timer is a hell of a lot cheaper and easier than chasing a nutrient deficiency or genetic boogeyman that you just can never really track down.
Kaisha [00:46:15]:
Great advice. Thank you, guys. All right, Marco has a question he dropped on YouTube. He wants to know what temperatures do you recommend in veg when lights off? So what are some good, some considerations for Marco.
Jason [00:46:32]:
Per veg? So 18, six, we're trying to get plant growth. I like to keep my temperatures up. So 80 degrees to 84 or 85 probably is pretty reasonable for lights off as long as you can keep your humidity in the right ranges. I talk about this quite a bit, and that is I almost never really look at relative humidity very often. I'm never actually saying, hey, this is the humidity that I need to be at. What I'm saying is, hey, this is the temperature I want to be at. It's in the VPD range that is desirable for the best plant growth here. And then I'll set my relative humidity to make sure that VPD is in check.
Jason [00:47:13]:
Right. And so it's kind of like the last variable that's dependent on the constraints that are important to plant growth.
Seth [00:47:21]:
Yeah, ditto. Keep it up. Keep that plant growth going. I know historically, a lot of people have run like, let's say, a ten degree diff all the way through the life cycle of the plant. While that's doable, part of running those higher temperatures is also what allows us to achieve a two week veg and get a similar size plant to what we used to grow in a five gallon baht in a one gallon pot and get it done in a much shorter amount of time. Heat really affects plant metabolism, so keep that in mind. If you're dropping your temperature at any point, we want those overnight diffs later in the flower cycle. But while we're trying to build structure, cold slows the plant down holistically.
Seth [00:48:05]:
I'll use that word again. It literally slows every cell in the plant down when it's below those temperatures.
Kaisha [00:48:13]:
All right, good luck out there, Marco. Okay, we have a question. It's follow up from something we talked about last week. Tricone Cowboy wrote last week's convo about if you were to grind your coco into coffee ground consistency, it would create a higher than desired water holding capacity. It got me looking into my can of coco. I did the dry, wet weight test and discovered its 81% holding capacity. Is this a media you would use? And if you're already stuck using it for the time being, what would be the best watering practices? Three gallon plastic pot. Hand watering.
Kaisha [00:48:50]:
Thank you.
Seth [00:48:51]:
If you got a big pile of that, go buy some perlite and mix it in. In traditional soil science, we want it 25% to 30% pore space in the media. So that means that going above 70% volumetric water content. Okay. Now, we still have the volume of the media to account for, and we've already gone past the point where we've used up all of our pore space. So if you're hitting 80%, that's probably erring on the too high side. Is it impossible to grow in? Probably not. But it's going to be a lot more difficult to get that plant up to size without throwing off your ph or over watering it because you've got so much water capacity and you hit a certain point in saturation where it actually really is affecting the oxygen holding capacity of that media.
Seth [00:49:40]:
And that's what happens when we quote unquote, drown a plant out. Right. We're just keeping it literally underwater so much that we can't get enough oxygen infiltration into the media, and those roots can't respirate. They're drowning just like we would if we started having too much water. Being in our mouth where we want to breathe, not where we want to drink.
Jason [00:50:02]:
Getting waterboarded lately?
Seth [00:50:03]:
Yeah, a little bit. It's average. It happens.
Kaisha [00:50:07]:
Where are you guys hanging out? Waterboarding?
Seth [00:50:10]:
No, Sacramento. Oh, shit.
Kaisha [00:50:15]:
We love you, Sacktown. All right. Love that question. Thank you for that. Okay, we got. Trent dropped a question about our sensor technology. He wants to know, can you explain to us the difference of how an EC graph would look between the TEROS twelve and the new dialectic sensor? From my understanding, a TEROS twelve is a calculated membership measurement. So if I sucked half the water out of my cube with a vac, it would assume that the EC has risen when it actually hasn't.
Kaisha [00:50:43]:
For example, give your insights.
Jason [00:50:46]:
Yeah, sure. We'll dive into this. So, TEROS twelve, it's a capacitance based measurement. Pole sensors actually are using a calculated measurement, if you will. The TEROS twelve is using specific equation called the Hill horse equation for determining what that EC is. And yes, it is influenced by water content to some degree. Basically, some of the calibrations that we have done help keep it very accurate until we get to the extremes. And so some of those extremes that we're thinking we're seeing is usually around 20% water content.
Jason [00:51:24]:
The TEROS twelve has a harder time making those calculations for EC. Now, when we look at the new and improved TEROS one, we're using that dielectric system, and it is going to be significantly more accurate. I think we've got a paper out there that actually dives into the engineering of the TEROS one and why you see this in a really above most of our heads type of language, if you will.
Seth [00:51:55]:
I would say the biggest difference that I've noticed so far on the graph, and I know we've talked about, not on here ad nauseam, just internally trying to figure out how to explain this to people, we're not seeing those exponential spikes on a deep dryback. So, basically, when you're using your t twelve and you're going in. 20 isn't a hard line. Once you go below that. That's typically when we start to see the equation not be as accurate, where you might cross the 15% threshold, let's say. And suddenly your EC goes from, hey, we're rising very nicely and predictably up to, from five to nine or ten. And then we cross 15 is probably kind of low, let's say an 18 or 20% threshold. And then now we see it go exponential so quick that it immediately pins from eight to 30 inside of a really short time frame, like less than half an hour.
Seth [00:52:48]:
That's the kind of behavior that the terra swan just doesn't display. We're able to see a more accurate reading at those lower contents. And the tough thing to gamble there, right, is at least with the t twelve, what we know is like, hey, when I see that starting to spike, I know it's raising. I might not know exactly how much, but I know that's probably starting to get to a point where my dryback is becoming risky. I'm starting to really spike that EC and potentially go to a point where I'm going to hurt the plant with that t one. We just have a little bit, quite a bit better visibility in some of these more extreme dryback ranges on knowing when we're in a safe zone and when we absolutely aren't, rather than focusing on, okay, I know I'm in a zone where it's starting to become mysterious. The t one can kind of help guide us through some of those murky waters and deciding if we've really jacked it up too high or not. And an important thing to remember too, is even though we do have this better visibility, whatever media you're working with will hit a certain point where like, hey, I've got my sensor stabbed in and I'm reading 12%.
Seth [00:53:57]:
Okay. If I'm working at, if I'm looking at different types of media, Rockwool helps maintain a little bit more consistent media, a little bit better of a sponge. But if I'm talking about coco, there's a few other factors. If I have a plastic bag around that coco, I'm going to have a little bit better moisture retention, a little bit more even moisture. If I've got a mesh bag and I'm going down to a certain point, I've got a gradient in the pot itself, just like camera. If it was last week or a few weeks ago, we were talking about really big pots and your sensor placement being important because the center of the pots can be much wetter than the outside. That can still happen in a one or two gallon mesh sided pot. So if that's the case, and I'm going down to, let's say, 15% or below, I now know at that point that we've hit a saturation level in the pot where the pot itself is pretty inconsistent.
Seth [00:54:48]:
Even if I took that probe and went from the top to the bottom, I'd start to get uncomfortably low readings everywhere. And that's probably pushing it just a little bit too hard in terms of water stress on the plants, especially when I project that across the population. If I have one that's questionable, good chance. I have several that are definitely in the red and I should be worried about them.
Jason [00:55:13]:
Yeah. Thanks for making sure that people know that it's not exactly at that line when we start to lose accuracy, it is extremely media dependent for that trails twelve. And it is exponential as well. So the farther we go past that line where it starts to not be exactly perfect with the EC, it gets farther and farther and farther from the exact one. The lower we go on water content.
Seth [00:55:38]:
Yeah, that line kind of changes depending on the actual salinity we're seeing in the root zone. So if we've got a lot of salinity in the root zone, we'll probably see that exponential spike a little bit higher up in the dryback range. So that spike might hit at 20 to 22 versus at a lower EC state. We might see that spike happening at 17 or 18 or 16.
Kaisha [00:56:01]:
Amazing, you guys. Thank you for that. Just really quick on YouTube, we took a little poll here. Ask folks to shout out their region. We got 30% of viewers are on the east coast, 20% are on the central part of America, and then 50% are on the west coast. So what's up, everybody? Nationwide? So good to have you all on. All right, this looks like a good one to close out the show with. Sammy writes, guys.
Kaisha [00:56:27]:
Love the show. And so far listened to the first 33 episodes this past month. Wow. Can you let us know what range the root zone temperature should be at? Regenerative and vegetative steering. What guidance do we want to give them as they get going?
Jason [00:56:43]:
Yeah, I think in one of those episodes there, pretty soon he's actually going to run into the answers to this question, but we'll go ahead and dive into it here right now. Root zone temperature is one of those things where there's not a lot of things that we can do to control it significantly. It's going to be a side effect of other parameters that we're trying to make optimal. Right. And so that's going to be, we're thinking about temperature, air temperature of the room. It's going to be probably the biggest influencer of what that root zone temperature is. It's always going to try and gravitate to be about equal to the room temperature. That is, in case we're using a hydronic heating system, which obviously then red zone might be more than the air temperature, just depending on those offsets.
Jason [00:57:30]:
Really, the only thing that we're looking at that is going to change what that red zone temperature is, is going to be our irrigations. So what our irrigation temperatures are and the amount of volume. So when we think about, all right, well, when we irrigate, that's typically going to drop it. Let's say our temperatures were early in flower and our temperatures want to be daytime at say 80 and nighttime, maybe 77, 78. It's going to bounce back and forth between those two air temperatures. With the caveat of when we irrigate, it's usually going to drop down closer to our irrigation temperatures. We're going to see it usually quickly drop down to that temperature because that water is penetrating and it's cooling off that substrate fairly quickly. And then we're going to see it kind of rise back up until the next irrigation.
Jason [00:58:22]:
And so what the ideal temperature there is basically whatever it is, when everything else is ideal.
Seth [00:58:31]:
Yeah, it's typically going to be very close to ambient room temperature. And I wish I had a prepped graph for this one, because I'd love to show when we're talking about a two or a three or a five or even an 8% irrigation, that's not very much mass that we're introducing to that pot that's at a lower temperature. Right. So if I put on, let's say 300 ML into a pot that's 3750 ML, I'm not putting enough cold mass into that to really cool it down that much with that individual irrigation. And if I look at my space in between my irrigations, typically what we see is that temperature starts out about what ambient room temperature was the night before. Maybe a degree or two cooler if you got a lot of fans blowing at your benches. But we'll see that slowly crank up throughout the day. And then after each irrigation, we'll see it come down, but not from 75 down to near 65.
Seth [00:59:30]:
If that's what our input water temp is. We might see that drop from 75 to like 74 or 73 for ten minutes. And then that water warms right back up and we actually have an overall warming trend throughout the day where that root zone is actually just absorbing heat throughout the entire day. It's getting hotter and hotter and hotter and hotter as it approaches ambient room temp. And then once the lights shut off, if we have an overnight diff, it's slowly going downward towards what that overnight ambient temp is, and then bouncing back up in the morning. So, short story long, don't worry about it too much unless you're seeing something. And a good rule of thumb too, is if you're for some reason seeing over 80 degrees approaching 90, that's where we see the most bacterial growth. Not necessarily fungal, but most bacterial growth.
Seth [01:00:22]:
So that's part of why we want to keep it in that range. But all things considered, if your facility is clean, you should have no problem maintaining root temps at close to the ambient air temp.
Jason [01:00:35]:
Yeah, just kind of food for thought. For most of our indoor situations, what I'm going to mention is they're very small effects on it. So we're thinking about radiation and evaporation are going to be both things that can change the substrate temperature. And I actually have experienced outdoor growing in black hard pots. So much radiation on there that I did get unhealthy red zone. My temperatures were way up simply because I didn't have a very thick canopy. And black plastic hard pot doesn't have much surface area for evaporation. It's black.
Jason [01:01:12]:
So it's absorbing more of that radiation as well. So a few of those things kind of just to bring up for conversation, most indoor applications, there's not a lot of change in that substrate temperature because of those. But it's probably also why a lot of compressed coco we see in a white bag or most of our rockwool manufacturers are coming in a white sided plastic.
Seth [01:01:39]:
Yeah, just trying to eliminate that radiation variable or minimize it as much as possible. And I want to highlight that the growers that typically have to worry about these issues, outdoor and greenhouse growers, almost exclusively. If I've got a greenhouse where I'm really struggling to maintain my overnight temperatures in the whole environment, that's where we're getting hydronic heating. Like Jason said, that's just hot water running through pipes underneath your benches that keep the roots of the plant warm enough. And usually we see those in applications where it's like, hey, part of the year, we really struggle to keep the ambient temp at night above, let's say 55 or 60 degrees so the least we can do is keep that root zone warm enough to where we're not going to stress it. We'll still get good plant growth and then on down the line. Part of where that comes in is trying to decide, okay, what's cheaper to heat at this point in the winter. Just the root zone to keep the plants trucking along.
Seth [01:02:34]:
Or can I actually afford to start cranking natural gas and get that whole greenhouse volume up to that heat level that I want? And hey, if it's like zero degrees fahrenheit outside, you might be a lot more economical only trying to get it to 60 or 65 rather than all the way up to 75 or 80. Heat doesn't scale well in greenhouses.
Kaisha [01:03:00]:
Amazing. Welcome to the wonderful world of data driven crop steering, Sammy. Thank you guys so much. All right, before we go, have you heard we are giving an aroya go away on our website. We just dropped the link in the chat, so be sure to enter for your chance to win. Seth, Jason, Chris, producer, thank you guys so much. What a juicy show. We covered a lot of ground today, and thank you all so much for joining us for this week's Aroya office hours.
Kaisha [01:03:26]:
To learn more about Aroya, book a demo at Aroya IO and our team will show you the ins and outs of the ultimate cannabis cultivation platform. If you have any crop steering or cultivation questions you want us to cover, drop them anytime in the Aroya app. Email us at sales at aroya IO. Send us a DM on Instagram, Facebook, or LinkedIn. We want to hear from you. And if you're a fan of the pod, be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel channel so you never miss an episode. Thank you guys so much, and we'll see you at the next session. Bye.