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Struggles with focus, relaxation, and sleep? Join Space Cat KoKo as she reads vintage Earth handbooks, manuals, and how to books, in a calm and relaxing voice. Podcast episodes released every Tuesday and Thursday.
Good vintage Earth evening Milky Way listeners. This is Space Cat Koko bringing you peaceful voice recordings of handbooks, manuals, and how to books from vintage Earth.
Earth humans have been asking, what is a Bamboo Portal? I forget that the Earth humans still are in the adjustment stage of all things galactic. The Bamboo Portals are used for travel between all locations in the Galactic Recreation Network including the Ice Cream Nebula Recreation Station. It is not known exactly how these portals work but there have been no losses or injury to any that have used them. You can reserve Bamboo Portal travel with your SUSTU. The Bamboo Portal on the Ice Cream Nebula Recreation Station is located on Deck One in the Green Spiral. The Bamboo Portal looks like a bamboo forest with a winding path. You just go through it, stay on the path, and you will arrive at your destination. It is a relaxing experience and a peaceful way to travel. You do not feel or see anything different, well there might be a shimmer of green light, but it is barely noticeable. Travel time takes less than 30 vintage Earth seconds. On the other side, you exit the bamboo forest into an enclosed environment with safe atmospheric conditions. Special Note, the Bamboo Portal on Deck Two in the Yellow Spiral is for arrivals only, you are not able to leave the Ice Cream Nebula Rec Station from that portal. More details of locations in the Galactic Recreation Network can be found in your SUSTU.
Ok, now I need to get back to recording the audio logs to help you with focus, relaxation, and sleep. For more information and transcripts, go to SpicyPonyDesign.com.
And now, Part Two of Four, the continuation of,
Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
by Ford Motor Company
PUBLISHED 1919
How are Spark Plugs cleaned?
Answer Number Thirty-One
After removing the plug from the engine, the points may be cleaned with an old toothbrush dipped in gasoline. However, in order to do the work thoroughly, the plug should be taken apart by securing the large hexagon steel shell in a vise and loosening the pack nut which holds the porcelain in place. The carbon deposits can then be easily removed from the porcelain and shell with a small knife. Care should be exercised not to scrape off the glazed surface of the porcelain, otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly. The porcelain and other parts should finally be washed in gasoline and wiped dry with a cloth.
In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain, and the distance between the sparking points should be one thirty-second of an inch, about the thickness of a smooth dime.
Dirty plugs usually result from an excess of oil being carried in the crank case, or from using oil of poor quality.
How is the Power Plant removed from the Car?
Answer Number Thirty-Two
(1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the radiator hose
(2) disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash
(3) take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame and take radiator off
(4) disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame
(5) loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly, the wires first having been disconnected
(6) take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket underneath the crank case
(7) remove the four bolts at the universal joint
(8) remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off gasoline, disconnect feed pipe from carburetor
(9) disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by unscrewing large brass pack nut
(10) take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame
(11) remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass a "2x4," or a stout iron pipe about ten feet long, and let a person hold each end; let a third person take hold of the starting crank handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment.
Connecting Rod Bearings, how adjusted?
Answer Number Thirty-Three
Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the engine, by the following method:
(1) drain off the oil
(2) remove plate on bottom of crank case, exposing connecting rods
(3) take off first connecting rod cap, and draw-file the ends, a very little at a time
(4) replace cap, being careful to see that file marks correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly
(5) test tightness of bearing by turning engine over by the starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer
(6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same manner
(7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested, then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.
Remember, there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight, and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly, unless precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the start. It is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours (keeping it well supplied with water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest dealer or branch house for exchange at a price of $1.00 each to cover the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting rods or main bearings, for without a special jig in which to form the bearings, satisfactory results will not be obtained. The constant tapping of a loose connecting rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of the steel, result, broken crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
Crank Shaft Main Bearings, how adjusted?
Answer Number Thirty-Four
Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves become worn (evidenced by a pounding in the motor) and need replacing or adjusting, proceed as follows:
(1) After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank case, transmission cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods, transmission and magneto coils. Take off the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline. Apply Prussian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, which will enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a perfect bearing surface is obtained.
(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as possible without stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has been properly fitted, the crank shaft can be turned with one hand. If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one hand, the contact between the bearing surfaces is evidently too close, and the cap requires shimming up, one or two brass liners usually being sufficient. In case the crank shaft moves too easily with one hand, the shims should be removed, and the steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red "spottings" indicate a full bearing the length of the cap. If "spottings" do not show a true bearing, the babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained.
(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in the same manner. Repeat the operation with the front bearing, with the other two bearings laid aside.
(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained, clean the babbitt surface carefully and place a little lubricating oil on the bearings, also on the crank shaft; then draw the caps up as closely as possible, the necessary shims, of course, being in place. Do not be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight, as the shim under the cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces will prevent the metal being drawn into too close contact. If oil is not put on the bearing surfaces, the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is started up before the oil in the crank case can get into the bearing. In replacing the crank case and transmission cover on the motor, it is advisable to use a new set of gaskets to prevent oil leaks.
PART THREE: THE FORD COOLING SYSTEM
How is the Engine cooled?
Answer Number Thirty-Five
The heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine would soon overheat and ruin the engine, were it not cooled by some artificial means. The Ford engine is cooled by the circulation of water in jackets around the cylinders. The heat is extracted from the water by its passing through the thin metal tubing of the radiator, to which are attached scientifically worked out fins, which assist in the rapid radiation of the heat. The fan, just back of the radiator, sucks the air around the tubing, around which the air is also driven by the forward movement of the car. The belt should be inspected frequently and tightened when necessary, not too tight, however, by means of the adjusting screw in the fan bracket. Take up the slack till the fan starts to bind when turned by hand.
How does the Water circulate?
Answer Number Thirty-Six
The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the Thermo-syphon system. It acts on the principle that hot water seeks a higher level than cold water, consequently when the water reaches a certain heat, approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit, circulation commences and the water flows from the lower radiator outlet pipe up through the water jackets, into the upper radiator water tank, and down through the tubes to the lower tank, to repeat the process.
What are the causes of Overheating?
Answer Number Thirty-Seven
(1) Carbonized cylinders
(2) too much driving on low speed
(3) spark retarded too far
(4) poor ignition
(5) not enough or poor grade oil
(6) racing motor
(7) clogged muffler
(8) improper carburetor adjustment
(9) fan not working properly on account of broken or slipping belt
(10) improper circulation of water due to clogged or jammed radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.
What should be done when the Radiator overheats?
Answer Number Thirty-Eight
Keep the radiator full. Do not get alarmed if it boils occasionally, especially in driving through mud and deep sand or up long hills in extremely warm weather. Remember that the engine develops the greatest efficiency when the water is heated nearly to the boiling point. But if there is persistent overheating when the motor is working under ordinary conditions, find the cause of the trouble and remedy it. The chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving or carbonized cylinders. Perhaps twisting the fan blades at a greater angle to produce more suction may bring desired results. By reference to the proper division of this book each of the causes which contribute to an overheated radiator is treated and remedies suggested. No trouble can result from the filling of a heated radiator with cold water, providing the water system is not entirely empty, in which case the motor should be allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced.
How about cleaning the Radiator?
Answer Number Thirty-Nine
The entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out occasionally. To do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet hose should be disconnected, and the radiator flushed out by allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary pressure, from whence it will flow down through the tubes and out at the drain cock and hose. The water jackets can be flushed out in the same manner. Simply allow the water to enter into the cylinder head connection and to flow through the water jackets and out at the side inlet connection.
(CUT NUMBER SIX: The Thermo-Syphon Cooling System, showing course of water through water passages.)
Will the Radiator freeze in winter?
Answer Number Forty
Yes, unless an anti-freezing solution is used in the circulating system you are bound to experience trouble. As the circulation does not commence until the water becomes heated, it is apt to freeze at low temperature before it commences to circulate. In case any of the radiator tubes happen to be plugged or jammed they are bound to freeze and burst open if the driver undertakes to get along without using a non-freezing solution. Wood or denatured alcohol can be used to good advantage. The following table gives the freezing points of solutions containing different percentages of alcohol:
20% solution freezes at 15 degrees above zero.
30% solution freezes at 8 degrees below zero,
50% solution freezes at 34 degrees below zero.
A solution composed of 60% water, 10% glycerin and 30% alcohol is commonly used, its freezing point being about 8 degrees below zero.
On account of evaporation fresh alcohol must be added frequently in order to maintain the proper solution.
How are leaks and jams in the Radiator repaired?
Answer Number Forty-One
A small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying brown soap or white lead, but the repair should be made permanent with solder as soon as possible. A jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair.
While the stopping of one tube does not seriously interfere with the circulation, it is bound to cause trouble sooner or later, and the tube will freeze in cold weather. Cut the tube an inch above and below the jam and insert a new piece, soldering the connections. If the entire radiator is badly jammed or broken it would probably be advisable to install a new one.
(CUT NUMBER SEVEN: This cut illustrates the principle of Ford Carburetion)
ADD THE INTERLUDE (around 25 min??? forgot to mark)
PART FOUR: THE GASOLINE SYSTEM
The Carburetor, how does it work?
Answer Number Forty-Two
The carburetor is of the automatic float feed type, having but one adjustment, the gasoline needle valve. The cross-section diagram of carburetor (see Cut Number Seven) shows how the gasoline enters the carburetor, is vaporized by a current of air and passes through the inlet pipe to the engine in the form of an explosive mixture. The gasoline, entering the bowl of the carburetor, gradually raises the float to a point where the inlet needle is forced upwards into its seat, thus cutting off the flow of gasoline. As the gasoline in the bowl recedes, the float lowers, allowing the needle to drop from its seat and the flow of gasoline is resumed. It is plain to see that a constant level of gasoline is maintained in the carburetor by the automatic action of float and needle. The quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture is governed by the needle valve (see Answer Number Forty-Five). The volume of gas mixture entering the intake pipe is controlled by opening and closing the throttle, according to the speed desired by the driver.
Why is Carburetor adjustment placed on the dash?
Answer Number Forty-Three
For the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor. After the new car has become thoroughly worked in, the driver should observe the angle of the carburetor adjusting rod at which the engine runs most satisfactorily. In cold weather it will probably be found necessary to turn the dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left, particularly in starting a cold engine. As gasoline vaporizes readily in warm weather, the driver will find it economical to reduce the quantity of gasoline in the mixture by turning the carburetor adjustment to the right as far as possible without reducing speed. This is particularly true when taking long drives where conditions permit a fair rate of speed being maintained, and accounts for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers.
What is meant by a "lean" and a "rich" Mixture?
Answer Number Forty-Four
A lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline. A rich mixture has too much gasoline and not enough air. A rich mixture will not only quickly cover the cylinders, pistons and valves with carbon, but will tend to overheat the cylinders, and is likewise wasteful of the fuel. It will often choke the engine and cause misfiring at slow speeds, although at high speeds the machine will run perfectly. The mixture should be kept as lean as possible without the sacrifice of any of the power of the motor. A lean mixture will often result in backfiring through the carburetor, for the reason that the gas burns slowly in the cylinder and is still burning when the inlet valve opens again, which causes the gas in the intake to ignite. A rich mixture is shown by heavy, black exhaust smoke with a disagreeable smell. Proper mixture will cause very little smoke or odor.
How is the Carburetor adjusted?
Answer Number Forty-Five
The usual method of regulating the carburetor is to start the motor, advancing the throttle lever to about the sixth notch, with the spark retarded to about the fourth notch. The flow of gasoline should now be cut off by screwing the needle valve down to the right until the engine begins to misfire, then
gradually increase the gasoline feed by opening the needle valve until the motor picks up and reaches its highest speed and no trace of black smoke comes from the exhaust. Whenever it is necessary to turn the adjusting needle down more than a quarter turn below its normal position, the lock nut on top of the carburetor at the point through which needle passes should first be loosened, as otherwise it is impossible to tell when the needle is turned down in its seat too far. Turning the needle down too tightly will result in it becoming grooved and the seat enlarged. When these parts are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of the carburetor. Having determined the point where the motor runs at its maximum speed, the needle valve lock nut should be tightened to prevent the adjustment being disturbed. For average running, a lean mixture will give better results than a rich one.
And now … the interlude
MOON DAUBER DELIGHTS PRESENTS
Cookies
Ingredients
1 cup butter
2 cups sugar
1 cup sweet cream
teaspoon of soda
3 eggs
flour
Melt the sugar and pour over the butter. Stir while it melts. After it is cold, cream it and stir in the sweet cream; after putting in the cream and mixing thoroughly, add an even teaspoon of soda. Beat three eggs, yolks and whites together, and put in, but do not mix until you have added some flour. Mix them as soft as possible, taking them up from the table with a knife. The less flour the better. Use extra C sugar; you cannot use granulated sugar.
This recipe was found in the Cloud City Cook-Book Published 1889.
Let’s return to the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
Why does water clog the Carburetor?
Answer Number Forty-Six
The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank, even in small amounts, will prevent easy starting and the motor will misfire and stop. As water is heavier than gasoline it settles to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment bulb along with other foreign matter. As it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline absolutely free from impurities, especially water, it is advisable to frequently drain the sediment bulb under the gasoline tank. During cold weather the water which accumulates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze and prevent the flow of gasoline through the pipe leading to the carburetor. Should anything of this kind happen it is possible to open the gasoline line by wrapping a cloth around the sediment bulb and keeping it saturated with hot water for a short time. Then the water should be drained off. In event the water gets down into the carburetor and freezes, the same treatment may be applied.
What makes the Carburetor leak?
Answer Number Forty-Seven
The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle raising and lowering in its seat. Should any particle of dirt become lodged in the seat, which prevents the needle from closing, the gasoline will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the ground.
When there is dirt in the Carburetor, what?
Answer Number Forty-Eight
The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening, a minute particle of grit or other foreign matter will clog up the orifice, and result: motor will begin to misfire and slow down as soon as it has attained any considerable speed. This is accounted for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction will draw the particles of dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening the valve needle half a turn and giving the throttle lever two or three quick pulls the dirt or sediment will often be drawn through, when the needle may be turned back to its original place. If this does not accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be drained.
If Engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded, what?
Answer Number Forty-Nine
If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded unscrew the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine idles at suitable speed. If the motor chokes and stops when throttle is fully retarded the adjusting screw should be screwed in until it strikes the boss, preventing the throttle from closing too far. When proper adjustment has been made, tighten lock-screw so that adjustment will not be disturbed.
What is the purpose of the Hot Air Pipe?
Answer Number Fifty
It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts it
to the carburetor, where the heat facilitates the vaporizing of the gasoline. It is usually advisable to remove this pipe in the hot season, but it is an absolutely necessary feature during cold weather.
What is the purpose of the Cork Float?
Answer Number Fifty-One
It automatically controls the flow of the gasoline into the carburetor. If it floats too low, starting will be difficult; if too high, the carburetor will flood and leak. A cork float which has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a new one or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of coats of liquid shellac to make it waterproof.
Should Priming Rod be used in starting when Motor is warm?
Answer Number Fifty-Two
No. The carburetor does not ordinarily require priming when the motor is warm and starting with the rod pulled out is apt to "flood" the engine with an over-rich mixture of gas, which does not readily explode. This naturally causes difficulty in starting. If you should accidentally flood the engine, turn the carburetor adjusting needle down (to the right) until it seats; then turn the engine over a few times in order to exhaust the rich gas. As soon as the motor starts, turn back the needle (to the left) and readjust the carburetor.
(CUT NUMBER EIGHT: Wiring of Ford Ignition System)
PART FIVE: THE FORD IGNITION SYSTEM
What is the purpose of the Ignition System?
Answer Number Fifty-Three
It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in the combustion chamber, thus producing the power which runs the engine. It is important that the charge be correctly ignited at the proper time, in order to obtain satisfactory results in running the car. In the Ford car the ignition system is as simple as it is possible for human invention to make it.
How does the Magneto generate the current?
Answer Number Fifty-Four
In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, the magnets on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools create an alternating low tension electric current in coils of wire which are wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of the magneto and is carried from these coils to the magneto connection (wire) leading to the coil box on the dash.
Should the Coil Vibrator Adjustment be disturbed?
Answer Number Fifty-Five
The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves the factory, and this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to install new points or to reduce the gap between the points which may have increased from wear. When adjustments are necessary, they should, whenever possible, be made by one of our service stations who have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and will gladly furnish expert service. If the points are pitted, they should be filed flat with a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb nut turned down so that with the spring held down the gap between the points will be a trifle less than one thirty-second of an inch. Then set the lock nut so that the adjustment cannot be disturbed. Do not bend or hammer on the vibrators, as this would affect the operation of the cushion spring of the vibrator bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
How is a Weak Unit detected?
Answer Number Fifty-Six
With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular cylinder fails or seems to develop only a weak action, change the position of the unit to determine if the fault is actually in the unit. The first symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of the vibrator with no spark at the plug. Remember that a loose wire connection, faulty spark plug, or worn commutator may cause irregularity in the running of the motor. These are points that should be considered before laying the blame on the coil.
How may short circuit in Commutator Wiring be detected?
Answer Number Fifty-Seven
Should the insulation of the primary wires (running from coil to commutator) become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is exposed, the current will leak out (i.e., short circuit) whenever contact with the engine pan or other metal parts is made. A steady buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a "short" in the wiring. When driving the car, the engine will suddenly lag and pound on account of the premature explosion. Be careful not to crank the engine downward against compression when the car is in this condition, as the "short" is apt to cause a vigorous kick back.
Does Coil Adjustment affect starting?
Answer Number Fifty-Eight
Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is required to make and break the contact between the points, and, as a result, at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between the spark plug points. Do not allow the contact points to become "ragged," otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in starting, and when running they are apt to produce an occasional "miss" in the engine.
What is the purpose of the Commutator?
Answer Number Fifty-Nine
The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the spark plugs must fire. It effects the "make and break" in the primary circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the commutator. Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving touches the four commutator contact points, to each of which is attached a wire connected with a coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through the entire system of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary, however, as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches the contact point connected with that unit. The commutator should be kept clean, and well-oiled at all times.
(CUT NUMBER NINE: The Ford Commutator)
What about the Spark Plugs?
Answer Number Sixty
One is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken out with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a one thirty-second of an inch gap, thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders. The spark plugs should be kept clean (i.e., free from carbon) and should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs. The make of plugs with which Ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage persons to the contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should, of course, at all times, be kept in perfect contact.
What are the indications of Ignition trouble?
Answer Number Sixty-One
The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and fix it, if possible, do not wait until you get home.
How can one tell which Cylinder is missing?
Answer Number Sixty-Two
This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils. Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators. Number One and Number Four, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two corresponding cylinders. Number One and Number Four, leaving only Number Two and Number Three running. If they explode regularly, it is obvious the trouble is in either Number One or Number Four. Relieve Number Four and hold down Number Two and Number Three and, also Number One; if Number Four cylinder explodes evenly, it is evident the misfiring is in Number One. In this manner, all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located. Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.
That is the end of part two of four, the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks.
For those of you who are more adventurous, you can select the travel destination, “Surprise Me Bamboo Portal” in your SUSTU. You will be sent to a location you have never visited before.
Well Milky Way Listeners, that is all for this sleep cycle. Thank you for listening, rest well in your space, and ignore all piles of socks.
You can find Sleepy Reads in your favorite Podcast App, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Sleepy Reads is produced by Spicy Pony Design. For more information and transcripts, go to SpicyPonyDesign.com.