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Struggles with focus, relaxation, and sleep? Join Space Cat KoKo as she reads vintage Earth handbooks, manuals, and how to books, in a calm and relaxing voice. Podcast episodes released every Tuesday and Thursday.
Welcome Milky Way listeners to … Sleepy Reads. This is Space Cat Koko and I record audio logs of vintage Earth handbooks, manuals and how to books to help with focus, relaxation, and sleep for Earth Humans and to all in the Milky Way.
I do not think I mentioned it before, but my living quarters is set up with a sound booth. It was a hidden sound booth. So, one wall is covered with fruit shapes. Some are flat and some are three dimensional shaped. I accidentally leaned on a pineapple, felt it move, and it made a little click. A soft whirring noise came from above and the giant whipped cream light descended slowly from the ceiling, and it transformed into a banana split. A whipped cream swirled door opened on the side of the banana split, which revealed the sound booth inside. I went in and sat down on a pineapple shaped chair, the door closed. When I was ready to leave, I pressed a strawberry shaped button on the interior wall. The door opened back up. I left the banana split and pressed the pineapple button again. The banana split slowly moved back up to the ceiling and transformed back to the whipped cream light. That was a fun find. I just thought it was a cloud light. Alrighty then, I should start with the audio log.
Check with your SUSTU for past audio logs. Also, transcripts can be found on SpicyPonyDesign.com.
And now … Part one of four …
Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
by Ford Motor Company
PUBLISHED 1919
Foreword
It is a significant fact that nearly all Ford cars are driven by laymen, by owners, who in the great majority of cases have little or no practical experience with things mechanical.
The simplicity of the Ford car and the ease with which it is operated renders an intimate knowledge of mechanical technicalities unnecessary for its operation.
And the further fact that there are more than twenty thousand Ford service stations distributed throughout the civilized world, where adjustments and repairs may be had with no annoying delay, gives to Ford owners a singular freedom from mechanical annoyances which beset owners of cars having limited service facilities and distribution.
But while it is not imperative, it is, however, altogether desirable that every Ford owner should thoroughly understand their car. With such knowledge at their command, they are always master of the situation, they will maintain their car more economically, prolong its usefulness, and they will also derive more pleasure from it, for it is a truism that the more one knows about a thing the more one enjoys it.
The mastery of a thorough knowledge of Ford construction is by no means a difficult or time-consuming task. The Ford is the simplest car made. It is easy to understand and is not difficult to keep in proper adjustment and repair.
That the Ford construction may be thoroughly understood and that there may be an authoritative guide for the making of Ford adjustments, this book is published.
Important
It is most important that owners of Ford cars shall insist upon getting the genuine Ford-made materials, or "Parts," when having repairs or replacements made. This will be assured when the car is taken to the authorized Ford agent. Imitation, or "bogus" or counterfeit parts of inferior quality are being made and sold as "Ford Parts." Avoid their use by dealing with the authorized Ford agent.
PART ONE: THE CAR AND ITS OPERATION
What must be done before starting the Car?
Answer Number One
Before trying to start the car, fill the radiator (by removing cap at top) with clean fresh water. If perfectly clean water cannot be obtained it is advisable to strain it through muslin or other similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting in and obstructing the small tubes of the radiator. The system will hold approximately three gallons. It is important that the car should not be run under its own power unless the water circulating system has been filled. Pour in the water until you are sure that both radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. The water will run out of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water system has been properly filled. During the first few days that a new car is being driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see that it is kept properly filled. The water supply should be replenished as often as may be found necessary. Soft rainwater, when it is to be had in a clean state, is superior to hard water, which may contain alkalis and other salts which tend to deposit sediment and clog the radiator. (See chapter on Cooling System.)
What about Gasoline?
Answer Number Two
The ten-gallon gasoline tank should be filled, nearly full, and the supply should never be allowed to get low. When filling the tank be sure that there are no naked flames within several feet, as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels rapidly. Always be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been spilled, as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated with the highly explosive vapor. The small vent hole in the gasoline tank cap should not be allowed to get plugged up, as this would prevent proper flow of the gasoline to the carburetor. The gasoline tank may be drained by opening the pet cock in the sediment bulb at the bottom.
How about the Oiling System?
Answer Number Three
Upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium light, high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case through the breather pipe at the front of the engine (a metal cap covers it). Down under the car in the flywheel casing (the reservoir which holds this oil) you will find two pet cocks. Pour oil in slowly until it runs out of the upper cock. Leave the cock open until it stops running, then close it. After the engine has become thoroughly limbered up, the best results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level midway between the two cocks, but under no circumstances should it be allowed to get below the lower cock. All other parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves the factory. However, it will be well to see that all grease cups are filled, and that oil is supplied to necessary parts. (See Cut Number 18, also chapter on Lubrication.)
How are Spark and Throttle Levers used?
Answer Number Four
Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The right-hand (throttle) lever controls the amount of mixture (gasoline and air) which goes into the engine. When the engine is in operation, the farther this lever is moved downward toward the driver (referred to as "opening the throttle") the faster the engine runs and the greater the power furnished. The left-hand lever controls the spark, which explodes the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The advancing of this lever "advances the spark," and it should be moved down notch by notch until the motor seems to reach its maximum speed. If the lever is advanced beyond this point a dull knock will be noticed in the engine. (See chapter on Ignition.)
Cut Number One: Steering Wheel, showing reduction gears meshing with the teeth of the gear case and center pinion.
Where should these levers be when starting the Engine?
Answer Number Five
The spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth notch of the quadrant (the notched half-circle on which the levers operate). The throttle should usually be opened about five or six notches. A little experience will soon teach you where these levers should be placed for proper starting. Care should be taken not to advance the spark lever too far, as the engine may "back kick."
What else is necessary before starting the Engine?
Answer Number Six
First, see that the hand lever, which comes up through the floor of the car at the left of the driver, is pulled back as far as it will go. The lever in this position holds the clutch in neutral and engages the hub brake, thus preventing the car moving forward when the engine is started. Second, after inserting the switch key in the switch on the coil box, throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will go to the point marked "magneto." This switch connects the magneto with the engine. The engine can't be started until it is on and the throwing off of this switch stops the engine.
How is the Engine started?
Answer Number Seven
If the car is not equipped with a starter the engine is started by the lifting of the starting crank at the front of the car. Take hold of the handle and push firmly toward the car till you feel the crank ratchet engage, then lift upward with a quick swing. With a little experience this operation wall become an easy matter. Don't, as a usual thing, crank downward against the compression, for then an early explosion may drive the handle vigorously backward. This does not mean however, that it is not advisable, when the car is hard to start, to occasionally "spin" the engine by the use of the starting handle but be sure the spark lever is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine against compression, otherwise a sudden backfire may injure the arm of the operator. When the engine is cool it is advisable to prime the carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower left corner of the radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns with the starting handle.
If the car is equipped with a starter the spark and throttle levers should be placed in the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, and the ignition switch turned on. Current from either battery or magneto may be used for ignition. However, we recommend that the magneto be used at all times. The magneto was designed to furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better results will be obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must be paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the starter. The starting motor is operated by a push button, conveniently located in the floor of the car at the driver's feet. With the spark and throttle levers in the proper position, and the ignition switch turned on, press on the push button with the foot. This closes the circuit between the battery and starting motor, causing the pinion of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel, thus turning over the crankshaft. When the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which is located on the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should only be held out for a few seconds at a time.
How is the Engine best started in cold weather?
Answer Number Eight
As gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather it is naturally more difficult to start the motor under such conditions. The usual method of starting the engine when cold is to turn the carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left in order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the cylinders; then hold out the priming rod, while you turn crank from six to eight one-quarter turns in quick succession or turn the motor over a few times with the starter. Another method of starting a troublesome cold engine is as follows: Before you throw on the magneto switch, (1) close throttle lever; (2) hold out priming rod while you give crank several quick turns, or turn the motor over a few times with the starter, then let go of priming rod (being careful that it goes back all the way); (3) place spark lever in about third notch and advance throttle lever several notches; (4) throw on switch (being sure to get it on side marked "Magneto"); (5) give crank one or two turns, or close the starting switch, and the motor should start. After starting the motor, it is advisable to advance the spark eight or ten notches on the quadrant and let the motor run until thoroughly heated up. If you start out with a cold motor, you will not have much power and are liable to "stall." The advantage of turning on the switch last, or after priming, is that when you throw on the switch and start the motor, you have plenty of gas in the cylinders, to keep the motor running, thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting and stopping. After motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment back one-quarter turn.
To facilitate starting many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine by pulling out on the priming rod, which has the effect of shutting off the air suction and filling the cylinders full of a very rich gasoline vapor. This should not be done unless the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off. If the motor is stopped in this way and then started when hot, starting is apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the carburetor.
What function does the Hand Lever perform?
Answer Number Nine
Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. If it were not for this lever the driver would have to stop the engine whenever he left the driver's seat. He would also be unable to crank the engine without the car starting forward with the first explosion. When pulled back as far as it will go, the hand lever acts as an emergency brake on the rear wheels, by expanding the brake shoes in the rear wheel drums. Therefore, the hand lever should be back as far as it will go when cranking the engine or when the car is at rest. It should be only in a vertical position, and not far enough backward to act as a brake on the rear wheels, when the car is to be reversed. When the car is operating in high or low speed the hand lever should be all the way forward.
How do the Foot Pedals operate?
Answer Number Ten
The first one toward the left operates the clutch. When pressed forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed. When half-way forward the clutch is in neutral (i.e., disconnected from the driving mechanism of the rear wheels), and the releasing of this pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The center pedal operates the reverse. The right-hand pedal operates the transmission brake.
How is the Car started?
Answer Number Eleven
Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle, press the clutch pedal halfway forward, thereby holding the clutch in a neutral position while throwing the hand lever forward; then press the pedal forward into slow speed and when under sufficient headway (20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop back slowly into high speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle, which will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a little practice, the change of speeds will be easily accomplished, and without any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the machine.
How is the Car stopped?
Answer Number Twelve
Partially close the throttle; release the high speed by pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral; apply the foot brake slowly but firmly until the car comes to a dead stop. Do not remove foot from the clutch pedal without first pulling the hand lever back to neutral position, or the engine will stall. To stop the motor, open the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the switch. The engine will then stop with the cylinders full of explosive gas, which will naturally facilitate starting.
Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the car that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes practically automatic, the natural thing to do in case of emergency.
And now … the interlude
MOON DAUBER DELIGHTS PRESENTS
Forcemeat Balls
Ingredients
¼ cup fine, soft crumbs
¼ cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
2/3 cup raw fish or meat
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon butter
Cook the bread and milk to a paste, cool it, add the beaten egg and fish or meat, forced through a fine meat-chopper or chopped and then ground fine with a mortar and pestle. Mold it into balls, lay them in a pan with the flour and shake it until the balls are floured; then sauté them with the butter, shaking the pan carefully from time to time, till the balls are browned on all sides. Or the balls may be dropped into boiling soup and put into the cooker for one-half hour.
This recipe was read from The Fireless Cook Book by Margaret J. Mitchell, published in 1913.
Let’s return to the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
How is the Car reversed?
Answer Number Thirteen
It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine running, disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press the reverse pedal forward with the left foot, the right foot being free to use on the brake pedal if needed. Do not bring the hand lever back too far or you will set the brakes on rear wheels. Experienced drivers ordinarily reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the left foot and operating the reverse pedal with the right.
How is the Spark controlled?
Answer Number Fourteen
By the left-hand lever under the steering wheel. Good operators drive with the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will permit. However, advancing the spark too far will cause a dull knock in the motor, due to the fact that the explosion occurs too early. The spark should only be retarded when the engine slows down on a heavy road or steep grade, but care should be exercised not to retard the spark too far as this will result in late ignition, which causes loss of power and overheating of the motor and may also result in warped, burned or cracked valves. Learn to operate the spark as the occasion demands. The greatest economy in gasoline consumption is obtained by driving with the spark advanced sufficiently to obtain the maximum speed.
How is speed of Car controlled?
Answer Number Fifteen
The different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained by opening or closing the throttle. Practically all the running speeds needed for ordinary travel are obtained on high gear, and it is seldom necessary to use the low gear except to give the car momentum in starting. The speed of the car may be temporarily slackened in driving through crowded traffic, turning corners, etc., by "slipping the clutch," (i.e., pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral).
Is it advisable for owners to make their own Adjustments?
Answer Number Sixteen
The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the ordinary adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for themselves. But we must strongly recommend that when it becomes necessary to employ the services of a mechanic, the car be taken to a Ford mechanic, one of our own representatives who thoroughly understands the car, and who will have no motive for running up useless repair bills. The entire Ford organization is interested in keeping every individual Ford car in constant operation, at the lowest possible cost. We have known of much damage done to many cars by unskilled repair men.
What attention does the Car need?
Answer Number Seventeen
Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have become thoroughly "worked in." The car which is driven slowly and carefully when new usually gives the most satisfactory service in the end. Never start out with your car until you are sure that is has plenty of oil and water. Frequently inspect the running gear. See that no unnecessary play exists in either front or rear wheels, and that all bolts and nuts are tight. Make a practice of taking care of every repair or adjustment as soon as its necessity is discovered. This attention requires but little time and may avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We aim to deliver the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards it is plainly the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.
PART TWO: THE FORD ENGINE
What is the principle of the gasoline-driven Engine?
Answer Number Eighteen
Gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly explosive. An explosion is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous combustion of confined gases. In the gasoline engine the mixture is drawn into a cylinder, where it is compressed by an advancing piston and then exploded by an electric spark, which sends the piston downward, and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary motion to the crankshaft.
What are the functions of the Pistons?
Answer Number Nineteen
On the downward stroke the suction of the piston draws the fresh gas from the carburetor, through the inlet pipe and valve, into the cylinder. The upward movement of the piston compresses the gas into a very small space, between the top of the piston and the depression in the cylinder head, known as the "combustion chamber." (The compressed gases exert a pressure of approximately 60 pounds per square inch.) At this point the electric spark, generated by the magneto, explodes the gases, driving the piston downward, thus producing the power which turns the crank shaft. On the next stroke upward, the piston drives the exploded gas out through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler.
Connecting Rod, how removed?
Answer Number Twenty
It is a steel rod, connecting piston and crank shaft. Should the babbitt bearing become worn, or burned out through lack of oil, a knocking in the engine will result in which case the entire connecting rod should be replaced. To make this replacement,
(1) drain oil from crank case
(2) take off cylinder head
(3) remove detachable plate on bottom of crank case
(4) disconnect connecting rod from crank shaft
(5) take piston and rod out through top of cylinder.
What is the Valve Arrangement?
Answer Number Twenty-One
One intake and one exhaust valve are located in each cylinder. The former admits the fresh gas drawn from the carburetor through the inlet pipe, the latter permits the exploded gas to be driven out through the exhaust pipe. The valves are alternately opened and closed (see Cut Number Three) by the cams on the cam shaft striking against push rods which in turn lift the valves from their seats.
What about Valve timing?
Answer Number Twenty-Two
In timing the engine, the points of opening and closing of the valves are, of course, what should be considered. As the valves are properly timed at the factory when the engine is built the necessity for retiming would occur only when such parts as the cam shaft, time gears or valves were removed in overhauling the engine.
(CUT NUMBER TWO: Sectional View of the Model T Motor)
(CUT NUMBER THREE: Cylinder Assembly, showing the correct position of the valves with time gears properly set according to punch marks on the gears, also the relative position of the pistons in their strokes as indicated above. The firing order of the cylinders is 1, 2, 4, 3)
In fitting the large time gear to the cam shaft, it is important to see that the first cam points in a direction opposite to the zero mark (see Cut Number Three). The time gears must also mesh so that the tooth marked zero (0) on the small-time gear will come between the two teeth on the large gear at the zero point. The time gears now being properly set, the exhaust valve on Number One cylinder is open and the intake valve closed, the other valves being in the position indicated in Cut Number Three. The opening and closing of the valves being as follows: The exhaust valve opens when the piston reaches five sixteenths of an inch of bottom center, the distance from the top of the piston head to the top of cylinder casting measuring three and three eights of an inch. The exhaust valve will close on top center, the piston being five sixteenths of an inch above the cylinder casting. The intake valve opens one sixteenth of an inch after top center and closes nine sixteenths of an inch after bottom center, the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder casting measuring three and one eights of an inch.
(CUT NUMBER FOUR: How the valve lifting tool should be used)
The clearance between the push rod and valve stem should never be greater than one thirty-second of an inch nor less than one sixty-fourth of an inch. The correct clearance is naturally halfway between these two measurements. The gap should be measured when the push rod is on the heel of the cam.
What about the care of the Valves?
Answer Number Twenty-Three
They seldom get out of order, but they do get dirty, as a result of carbon collecting on the valve seats. These carbon deposits by preventing proper closing of the valves, permit the gases under compression to escape, resulting in loss of power and uneven running of the motor. If, when turning the engine over slowly, there is a lack of resistance in one or more cylinders, it is probable that the valves need re-grinding. As the "life" of the engine depends largely upon the proper seating of the valves, it is necessary that they be ground occasionally.
How are Valves removed for grinding?
Answer Number Twenty-Four
(1) Drain radiator
(2) remove cylinder head
(3) remove the two valve covers on the right side of engine
(4) raise the valve spring with lifting tool (see Cut Number Four) and pull out the little pin under the valve seat. The valve may then be lifted out by the head.
How are Valves ground?
Answer Number Twenty-Five
For this work use a good grinding paste of ground glass and oil, procurable from auto supply houses. A convenient way is to put a small amount in a suitable dish, adding a spoonful or two of kerosene and a few drops of lubricating oil to make a thin paste.
(CUT NUMBER FIVE: Method of grinding valve)
Place the mixture sparingly on the bevel face of the valve. Put the valve in position on the valve seat and rotate it back and forth (about a quarter turn) a few times, with a Ford grinding tool. Then lift slightly from the seat, change the position and continue the rotation, and keep on repeating this operation until the bearing surface is smooth and bright. The valve should not be turned through a complete revolution, as this is apt to cause scratches running around the entire circumference of the valve and seat. When the grinding is completed, the valve should be removed from the cylinder, thoroughly washed with kerosene, and the valve seat wiped out thoroughly. Extreme care should be taken that no abrasive substance gets into the cylinders or valve guides. This can be avoided if the grinding paste is applied sparingly to the bevel face of the valve. If the valve seat is worn badly or seamed, it is best to have it reseated with a valve seating tool. This operation requires considerable skill, and perhaps had better be done by an expert mechanic. Care should be exercised against making too deep a cut, necessitating the retiming of the valve.
When the Valves and Push Rods are worn, what?
Answer Number Twenty-Six
When the valves or push rods become worn, so as to leave too much play between them, thus reducing the lift of the valves and diminishing the power of the motor, it is best to replace the push rods with new ones. The clearance between the push rods and the valve stem should never be greater than one thirty-second of an inch nor less than one sixty-fourth of an inch. If the clearance is greater, the valve will open late and close early, resulting in uneven running of the motor. If the clearance is less than one sixty-fourth of an inch there is danger of the valve remaining partially open all the time. If replacing the push rod does not give the proper clearance, the valve should also be replaced. We do not recommend drawing out the valve stem, as the operation requires experience, and the price of the new part does not warrant the time and expense necessary to properly do the work.
What about the Valve Springs?
Answer Number Twenty-Seven
When the valves fail to seat themselves properly, there is a possibility that the springs may be weak or broken. A weak inlet spring would probably not affect the running of the engine, but weakness in the exhaust valve spring causes a very uneven action, which is difficult to locate. The symptoms area lag in the engine due to the exhaust valve not closing instantaneously, and as a result a certain percentage of the charge under compression escapes, greatly diminishing the force of the explosion. Weakness in a valve spring can usually be detected by the following method: Remove the plate which encloses them at the side of the cylinder and insert a screwdriver between the coils of the spring while the engine is running. If the extra tension thus produced causes the engine to pick up speed, the spring is obviously weak and should be replaced with a new one.
What cause "Knocking" in the Engine?
Answer Number Twenty-Eight
There are several causes, which may be enumerated as follows:
(1) carbon knock, which is by far the most common, resulting from carbonizing of cylinders
(2) knock caused by a too advanced spark
(3) connecting rod knock
(4) crank shaft main bearing knock
(5) knock due to loose-fitting piston or broken ring
(6) knock caused by the piston striking the cylinder head gasket
When the engine knocks from any cause whatsoever, the matter should be promptly investigated by an experienced mechanic and the difficulty corrected.
How may the different Knocks be distinguished?
Answer Number Twenty-Nine
(1) The carbon knock is a clear, hollow sound, most noticeable in climbing sharp grades, particularly when the engine is heated. It is also indicated by a sharp rap immediately on advancing the throttle.
(2) Too advanced spark will be indicated by a dull knock in the motor.
(3) The connecting rod knock sounds like the distant tapping of steel with a small hammer and is readily distinguished when the car is allowed to run idly down grade, or upon speeding the car to twenty-five miles an hour, then suddenly closing the throttle, the tapping will be very distinct.
(4) The crank shaft main bearing knock can be distinguished, when the car is going uphill, as a dull thud.
(5) The loose piston knock is heard only upon suddenly opening the throttle, when the sound produced might be likened to a rattle. The remedies for these knocks are treated under their proper division.
How is carbon removed from Combustion Chamber?
Answer Number Thirty
First, drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the bottom of the radiator; then disconnect the wires at the top of the motor and the radiator connection attached to the radiator. Remove the 15 cap screws which hold the cylinder head in place. Take off the cylinder head and, with a putty knife or screwdriver, scrape the carbonized matter from the cylinder head and top of pistons, being careful to prevent the specks of carbon from getting into the cylinders or bolt holes. In replacing the cylinder head gasket turn the motor over so that Number One and Number Four pistons are at top center; place the gasket in position over the pistons and then put the cylinder head in place. Be sure and draw the cylinder head bolts down evenly (i.e., give each bolt a few turns at a time); do not tighten them on one end before drawing them up at the other.
That is the end of part one of four, the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks.
The Ice Cream Nebula Recreation Station is part of the Galactic Recreation Network. To travel here, find a Bamboo Portal. Every location included in Galactic Recreation Network has one. Refer to your SUSTU to find the closest Bamboo Portal to you.
Good night, rest well in your space, and ignore all piles of socks.
Thank you for listening. You can find Sleepy Reads in your favorite Podcast App, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Sleepy Reads is produced by Spicy Pony Design. For more information and transcripts, go to SpicyPonyDesign.com.