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Every Tuesday on the CosmoFactory podcast: Discover the latest innovations along the cosmetics and personal care supply chain. Hear thought-provoking conversations with top beauty industry experts from around the world. Learn about next-level solutions and find inspiration to turn your own ideas into industry-changing innovations.
A PRODUCTION OF Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna
CosmoFactory is the first podcast from Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna—the most important beauty trade show in the world. Dedicated to all sectors of the industry, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna welcomes over 250,000 visitors from 150 countries and regions and nearly 3,000 exhibitors to Bologna, Italy, each year. It’s where our diverse and international industry comes together to build business relationships and to discover the best brands and newest innovations across consumer beauty, professional beauty, and the entire supply chain. The trade show includes a robust program of exclusive educational content, featuring executives and key opinion leaders from every sector of the cosmetics, fragrance, and personal care industry. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the most important event of the Cosmoprof international network, with exhibitions in Asia (Hong Kong), the US (Las Vegas and Miami), India (Mumbai) and Thailand (Bangkok). Thanks to its global exhibitions Cosmoprof connects a community of more than 500,000 beauty stakeholders and 10,000 companies from 190 countries and regions. Learn more today at Cosmoprof.com
CosmoFactory was co-developed in collaboration with supply-side expert Deanna Utroske, Host of the CosmoFactory podcast and Editor of the Beauty Insights newsletter.
This transcript is automatically generated and manually edited.
Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about wellness products, hot springs, and bath culture. It's about the heritage and benefits of Japanese herbal medicine. It's about minerals, mushrooms, and massage. It's also about practical supply chain considerations, and how innovative local brands help create international cultural connections.
Deanna: Today on the CosmoFactory podcast, my guest is Takeshi Nobuhara, founder and CEO of a brand called Shikohin. Welcome.
Takeshi: [00:01:00] Hello. Thank you for having me, Deanna.
Deanna: No, absolutely. I'm so glad you're here. Um, I just want to start by mentioning that your background is in international trade and development. You've specialized for some time in helping large Japanese companies discover business opportunities in the U. S. market. That's, is that correct?
Takeshi: Correct? Mainly working on like CPG skincare and, and also manufacturing companies.
Deanna: okay. Excellent. Thank you. Um, but this brand called Chiko Hin is your first entrepreneurial venture in the personal care industry as far as I know. Will you tell us about the brand that you've created?
Takeshi: Yes. Uh, so ko uh, we are a Japanese wellness brand, uh, that offers, um, immersive self-care experiences by providing high quality bath body and skincare products.
Deanna: Perfect. Thank you. And I'm very excited to hear more about the bath and body products in particular, but I wanna share [00:02:00] with our listeners a little bit of why I'm excited, uh, to hear about your brand. Um, as some folks know, it was about 10 years ago that I started writing news about the cosmetics industry, and when I got started, I was told that two is a coincidence, and three is a trend, and this meant I really wasn't supposed to write about something unless it was showing up consistently in the ingredient marketplace, or the packaging marketplace, or in the consumer brand space.
Deanna: But I quickly learned, uh, that investment dollars were also a very useful guideline to follow when identifying newsworthy trends or topics. And I mention this now because as wellness has become increasingly important to consumers, um, I would say over the past four years, bath and body care products and routines and even concepts and practices.
Deanna: Outside of beauty. So, um, things like sound baths and forest bathing have become more prevalent as well. Bathing is definitely a trend, um, but this September, the Asia based fund of a private equity firm, a lot of [00:03:00] folks in the industry know, called L. Catterton, acquired a majority stake in the bath and body care brand called Stenders.
Deanna: And when I was covering that news, I knew beyond a doubt that we had reached a tipping point. Bathing has definitely gone mainstream now. I just want to add for our listeners who might not be familiar with the Stenders brand, it's headquartered in Latvia, and it's important to know that Stenders, which is now more than 20 years old, is very much focused on ingredients that are sourced from Latvia, as well as on that particular country's bath culture.
Deanna: And I'm actually going to quote from a media release here that describes the bath culture as dating back centuries. and a practice to not only wash the body, but relax and cleanse the mind. This tells me that consumers are not just bathing, right? They're looking for holistic wellness benefits. They're looking for an experience.
Deanna: Um, so Takeshi, I'm hoping that you can share more about the traditions of Japanese bathing or hot springs. What, what makes for a decidedly [00:04:00] Japanese bathing experience?
Takeshi: Well, yeah, um, so bathing goes, uh, way back in history, uh, in Japan. So, uh, we have a quote saying the latest in wellness, so skincare or bath product is 1000 years old. So nothing has changed. Uh, we respect all the ingredients we get from mother earth. And in Japan, in terms of bathing, uh, we have thousands of hot, uh, hot springs called onsen.
Takeshi: Every onsen has its unique remedies, efficacies. So, um, we put a lot of importance on that
Deanna: And what, what differentiates one from the next? Is it the composition of the, the water or one onsen from the
Takeshi: natural ingredients. Other, um, some has a lot of minerals, some has sulfur and. [00:05:00] Some, um, onsen is just pure clean, some are more milky color, and, uh, depending on the ingredients that the Mother Earth offers, uh, per onsen, uh, hot spring, um, some has, uh, pain relief, uh, efficacy, some has, um, relaxing efficacy, so, uh, it's very, it's fun choose which onsen to go.
Deanna: I know. I love that. Thank you. Thank you. And I, I know that the product portfolio of your brand actually includes body care tools, um, as part of the routine. Can you, can you share a little bit about that? What's, what's going on there?
Takeshi: Yeah, so we believe to maximize the efficacy of the skin care or bath, uh, body care we offer, we pair it with, uh, elegant, functional Japanese tools. So, um, for example, we [00:06:00] offer a cognac sponge, which is made from 100 percent from, uh, plant root to, uh, wash your face or wash your body. Uh, we offer gassha, we offer like tsubo oshi, uh, um, pressure point massage, uh, ball that looks like a, uh, shape of a star, know, so makes it more fun to take care of yourself.
Deanna: Yes, yes, absolutely. Um, and as you've suggested, uh, Shikohin is a Japanese brand. brand. Um, it's actually based in California, but it's very clear to me that at least some of your ingredients must be coming from Japan. So I'm hoping you'll talk with us about your approach, uh, your approach to ingredient sourcing, um, and how you're identifying the right suppliers to work with.
Takeshi: Yeah. So, uh, when we first come up with the concept of a product, um, Uh, it's deeply rooted in scientific research and, uh, based on ancestral wisdom, mainly what I learned from my grandparents and parents. [00:07:00] Um, so for example, uh, for our bath product, um, we did a lot of extensive research around which Hot spring onsen provides what kind of efficacy and we chose, um, hot spring from, uh, Tochigi Prefecture and the name is Kinugawa Onsen.
Takeshi: We import actual minerals from the hot spring and create a bath tablet and also for a bath essence. Um, We carefully selected, um, the ingredient that has a blood circulation efficacy and, uh, that ingredient was mugwort, Yomogi. We, uh, sourced fermented Yomogi extract and we blended it with a mugwort. Um, Hinoki, which is Japanese cypress, are the fragrance of Hinoki, and Hinoki, Japanese cypress, is a very sacred wood that is [00:08:00] used to construct the best bath and also shrines and temples, and it has this beautiful, elegant smell.
Deanna: That's so interesting. I, um, folks who follow my work, um, might be familiar with Hinoki Cypress. I've definitely written about brands using, um, sort of Hinoki Cypress water as ingredients. Or, um, as you have suggested, um, using the scent for bath and that sort of thing. I wasn't aware, um, of how it was used for building shrines.
Deanna: That's quite interesting as well. But it is, it's a, it's a delightful scent, I have to say. Are there other ingredients coming from Japan that are, uh, very particular?
Takeshi: Yes, um, um, some of our product has yuzu, uh, fragrance. So, uh, we, we try to source, I mean, the constant, when we develop a product, it's all based on what we can find in Japan. But in terms of supply chain, we try to source, uh, ingredients locally if possible. But for like essential oils for Hiba, Kinoki, both are [00:09:00] Japanese, uh, Cypress, Yuzu, uh, Japanese citrus.
Takeshi: Sometimes it's better to source from Japan. So, um, uh, that's how we make our decision.
Deanna: Yeah, I know. And that makes good sense, right? You're basing it on, um, efficacy, but also very much the, the concept of the brand. Um, and you mentioned sourcing some ingredients locally, if possible. And when you say locally, um, I know from a previous conversation that you and I have had that that means local to manufacturing sites.
Deanna: So within the same region, um, and I'm assuming that's, um, that has a lot of benefits. Like just off the top of my head, I'm thinking, you know, there's, it's, it's probably a little bit more affordable. Um, there's less, transportation, it makes it more sustainable. Are these, are these some of the reasons you're making those choices or help me, help me think about your, your practice a little bit more.
Takeshi: Yeah, well, I mean, cost is a very important element, like you said, um, affordable transportation costs. By the same time, speed and flexibility is very [00:10:00] important. So, um, for us, it's very, very important. To partner with very experienced formulators and core manufacturers, uh, who can work with us, be very flexible during the R& D stage, and then, uh, provide us with, uh, very flexible terms and conditions around like MLQ, minimum order quantity, and, uh, allow us to grow together with them.
Takeshi: So, yeah.
Deanna: Yeah, no, thank you for sharing that. So many suppliers are very intentionally working with emerging brands, um, and, and sort of need, I think sometimes the reminder of what makes, um, makes those partnerships possible. Um, sometimes small brands aren't able to work with the manufacturers they might like to.
Deanna: Um, and, and so hearing, hearing what makes it possible is, is very helpful. Thank you for that. Um, you know, we're thinking about sourcing Japanese ingredients, um, for [00:11:00] availability. That's where they are, the quality and efficacy, but there's also something there, um, you know, that has to do with storytelling.
Deanna: Um, you know, and as you suggested, you learned, um, about. You know, herbal medicine or, or particular ingredients from your family. Um, how does, how does that sort of tradition of Japanese herbal medicine fit in with your brand? Is it in the bath and body care space, um, with the onsens as you, as you mentioned?
Deanna: But there's also, um, like facial skin care in your line. Help us think about that tradition a little bit more and how it's informing your formulation.
Takeshi: Yes. Um, so, um, It's all based on this ancestral wisdom and traditions, especially for bath,
Deanna: Yeah,
Takeshi: because, uh, we put a lot of importance on that, and you know, like, and also Japan has a very rich four seasons. So, during the winter, uh, it's very important to keep yourself warm, like, soak in your bath for like 15, 20 minutes, and then [00:12:00] circulate your, uh, uh, blood flow, and in order to circulate your blood flow, It's, uh, it's good to use, uh, plants like yomogi, mugwort, uh, sometimes if you just soak citrus, uh, yuzu, uh, in, in the bath, uh, you know, you can enjoy that, uh, fragrance, uh, while you soak in your bath for like 15 minutes, which is pretty long time.
Takeshi: And also use the Tsuboshi tool in the bath, um, and then massage yourself, you know, like, uh, behind, uh, you know, under your feet, you know, uh, uh, armpits or like, you know, wrists, um. It's, it's, it's a good exercise to do that. And, and also when it comes to skincare, like you mentioned, I used to forage functional, uh, functional mushrooms with my father.
Takeshi: And I know, I've known that, like, snow mushroom, cherimoya mushroom, has enormous, uh, uh, uh, hydrating effect. Uh, [00:13:00] and so for, uh, Uh, by mushroom moisturizer and eye cream, we use snow mushroom, reishi, chaga, maitake, wood ear. So, uh, it's all based on the notion of Kanpo, which, which, like you mentioned, Kanpo is a Japanese herbal medicinal system.
Deanna: yeah. No, that's fantastic. And I, I, you know, I know that mushrooms are much more than a trend now in the ingredient space. Some people might say we're having a mushroom movement. You mentioned, um, those five in the formulation. Can you share any sort of anecdotal notes or comments about the benefits that your consumers expect from mushrooms?
Deanna: What, what sort of awareness do they have?
Takeshi: Yeah. So, um, snow mushroom has scientific 15 percent more moisturizing effect, hydration effect than hyaluronic acid. Obviously, hyaluronic acid has other efficacy than, uh, you know, hydration, so it's important [00:14:00] to, um, work together with, uh, uh, those ingredients that have already been proven. But mushrooms, uh, it's a very, very, uh, interesting, um, you know, um, uh, natural botanicals or, uh, natural remedies. Yeah, and like chaga has a powerful antioxidant, wood ear, uh, it has, protects against, uh, damage, maitake, um, stimulates skin, uh, elasticity.
Deanna: Okay.
Takeshi: So, uh, we, um, carefully select each mushroom and, uh, Figure out what's the right combination that becomes a formula.
Deanna: And we may have kind of glossed over it here, um, because I was so excited about, um, bath culture. Um, but, but talk us through your brand's full portfolio of products, because there are several bath products, several skincare products. Um, how big is the, the range [00:15:00] right now? And I, maybe it would be helpful to, um, to share with listeners when you launched the brand, um, and, and how large it is at this point.
Takeshi: Yes, uh, so we have, uh, mainly, um, three, uh, product lines. One skincare, one is the body care, and one is the bath care.
Deanna: Yeah.
Takeshi: The skincare we currently have, um, we're currently developing the, uh, cleanser and toner. we're currently, uh, selling, uh, Enlightening Night Serum, Biomushroom Moisturizer, Biomushroom Eye Cream.
Deanna: Okay.
Takeshi: Body care, uh, we are selling hand and foot massage cream, um, and enchanting dry body oil that use Tamanu oil from, uh, Fiji, and also, uh, uh, instant relief roll on, which, uh, works for like pain relief, uh, joint pains. It's a roll on. And also, uh, uh, uh, uh, [00:16:00] body scrub based on, based on rice, um, And for our bath line, uh, the onsen bath tablets and blooming bath essence.
Takeshi: And we have accessories such as the cognac body uh, sponge, the face sponge, Tsuboshi, gassha, and the hinoki bowls.
Deanna: Yeah. Oh, perfect. No, that, that, I appreciate you're painting that fuller picture, um, and your brand is reasonably new. Will you remind us when it launched?
Takeshi: Yeah, well, I incorporated the company, um, right before COVID, but after COVID hit, because, uh, A lot of back and forth and a lot of effort to launch the brand. And we were able to launch the brand in May, 2022.
Deanna: Okay. Perfect.
Takeshi: And now, uh, we are selling, um, through our website, through, uh, we were accepted, accepted by Neiman Marcus, selling on, uh, on their, uh, website.
Takeshi: And we are in several, um, [00:17:00] wellness stores and spas, and we are now expanding into, uh, hotels and, uh, and yeah, that's, that's where we are right now.
Deanna: Excellent. That makes very good sense. Um, and, you know, it strikes me as you're talking that consumers in the states, um, for these, Okay. For these beauty, beauty lovers, shall we call them, your brand is creating, um, an experiential connection, right, to some of the natural resources of Japan and your country's personal care culture, as, as you've outlined here, um, and maybe this is my last question for you.
Deanna: I'll, I'll see what comes to mind. Um, but I'm wondering how you integrate that sort of, um, Diplomatic, if you will, cross cultural exchange, and maybe that sounds too serious, but how does that sort of job of creating that cultural connection, how does that inform the decisions at your brand, or how do you think about that?
Takeshi: I believe in representing culture in our products. [00:18:00] So I, I truly believe that because we are a brand with the Japanese heritage. We should be very authentic to that story and by communicating that authentic story and creating the right quality product that is suited for the U. S.
Takeshi: consumers. U. S. consumers will be able to connect to the Japanese culture through our products and through offering that experiential value that will lead to people wanting to learn more about Japan. And engage with our community and then in the future, people would want to actually experience that in Japan.
Deanna: Right.
Takeshi: And that's why we believe that we're not just a company that offer products. But we try to offer that experiential value and, um, that's why we put a lot of [00:19:00] importance on sourcing the right tools, ingredients, products, um, that the Japanese also think it's a high quality product, not just because it's cheap or it's functional, but there needs to be a philosophy or story behind every product that we offer and we be authentic.
Deanna: No, and I love your mentioning that about Japanese consumers, because of course, there will be folks here in the, in the U. S. market, um, that, um, either immigrated themselves from Japan or of, or of Japanese descent, and your, your brand will reach people across demographics. Right? It's not, you know, for a particular sort of consumer in the U.
Deanna: S. It's for every consumer in the U. S. And, um, as, as a, as a, an added benefit builds that cultural connection. That's what I hear you saying.
Takeshi: Another thing is there's so many great products in US, know, when I don't want to compete head to head with great products because the consumers already feel the [00:20:00] value. I believe there are some values that I can compliment. There's white space that I could fit in. So I'm trying to, um, you know, study that research that and then come up with our own unique product and try to offer something that.
Takeshi: adds more value because after all the word Shikohin in English, indulgence. So it's not something you need to survive, but it's something you need to enrich your life.
Deanna: hmm. Mm hmm.
Takeshi: I want to fill that space to, uh, to, so that people can enrich their life even more.
Deanna: Yeah. No, I love that idea of creating an indulgent opportunity. And I, I just want to mention, um, you know, your, your brand is quite stylish and I think you've put it together nicely. Um, and I'm not the only one you and I met at, um, the Cosmoprof show in North America, Las Vegas earlier this year and, and your stand was quite popular.
Deanna: So it's, it's clear to me that, um, you're making a good connection with, um, with the [00:21:00] beauty community. I, I really see that.
Takeshi: Thank you so much. I love, um, uh, to have that opportunity to meet with you, uh, Cosmoprof. I'm very fortunate. I feel very fortunate and grateful. Thank you.
Deanna: Oh, no, you're welcome. Thank you for saying that. Well, this was really an amazing conversation. I learned a lot Takeshi. I thank you for joining me here on the Cosmo Factory podcast.
Takeshi: Thank you so much, Diana. It was really a pleasure and I am very grateful for this opportunity. Thank you for having me.
[00:22:00]