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Every Tuesday on the CosmoFactory podcast: Discover the latest innovations along the cosmetics and personal care supply chain. Hear thought-provoking conversations with top beauty industry experts from around the world. Learn about next-level solutions and find inspiration to turn your own ideas into industry-changing innovations.
A PRODUCTION OF Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna
CosmoFactory is the first podcast from Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna—the most important beauty trade show in the world. Dedicated to all sectors of the industry, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna welcomes over 250,000 visitors from 150 countries and regions and nearly 3,000 exhibitors to Bologna, Italy, each year. It’s where our diverse and international industry comes together to build business relationships and to discover the best brands and newest innovations across consumer beauty, professional beauty, and the entire supply chain. The trade show includes a robust program of exclusive educational content, featuring executives and key opinion leaders from every sector of the cosmetics, fragrance, and personal care industry. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the most important event of the Cosmoprof international network, with exhibitions in Asia (Hong Kong), the US (Las Vegas and Miami), India (Mumbai) and Thailand (Bangkok). Thanks to its global exhibitions Cosmoprof connects a community of more than 500,000 beauty stakeholders and 10,000 companies from 190 countries and regions. Learn more today at Cosmoprof.com
CosmoFactory was co-developed in collaboration with supply-side expert Deanna Utroske, Host of the CosmoFactory podcast and Editor of the Beauty Insights newsletter.
This transcript is automatically generated.
Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about multinational social selling, about the challenges of harmonizing consumer insights among more than 60 markets around the world. It's about digital product development labs, about classic beauty product categories, as well as nutritional supplements. About moving away from anti wrinkle product claims toward a more holistic approach to beauty and self care.
Deanna: It's also about well being and women's hormonal health, and much more. Joining me today on the Cosmofactory podcast is [00:01:00] Emily Whelan, Director of Technology, Insights, and Innovation. Welcome.
Emily: Thank you very much. It's a real pleasure to speak to you today.
Deanna: Thank you for being here as I suggested in the intro to our episode or a flame is a multinational social selling beauty company But I think that short description hardly does it justice and we please introduce or a flame to us
Emily: Yeah, my pleasure too. Um, so Ori Flame is a social selling company, as you, um, described. It's a Swedish company, um, and that's, um, Those Swedish roots have, have always been, you know, part of what makes us unique. Um, I believe, uh, we're a beauty, um, and wellbeing company and we're, you know, we're in the process of that transition to, you know, from a recognized beauty company, moving more into the, the wellbeing space.
Emily: Um, Uh, we sell in over 60 markets, which, um, is, you know, very exciting then from a product development, [00:02:00] uh, perspective, um, and, you know, for us, we, we really have a unique view on, on beauty and wellbeing, which is really looking at, um, empowering, um, our consumers and our brand partners, um, to achieve their wellbeing, wellbeing goals and aspirations.
Deanna: Wonderful. Thank you for that. And you personally have been with the company for at least 20 years. Is that correct?
Emily: Well, I'm 20 years. Um, you know, this, this year, just now this, this summer. Um, so it's been quite a journey. And, um, you know, when I started, I started in the formulation team, um, actually in the color cosmetics, um, uh, department and, you know, um, Was, uh, you know, over kind of 10 years working color cosmetics, then moved into the innovation space, looking at, you know, the, the, um, innovation from a more holistic, um, [00:03:00] perspective for our beauty categories and our, our, you know, uh, nutrition and wellbeing, uh, Segment so a really exciting journey and I think we're really also added at the start of a new revolution and evolution in the beauty and well being space.
Emily: So, uh, it's been, it's been a great place to, to, to work, um, those 20 years.
Deanna: it sounds exciting. It sounds exciting. Congratulations. 20 years is a it's a nice milestone
Emily: It is, it is.
Deanna: I'd like to think a little bit about digital product development labs. In an earlier conversation, uh, you told me that you see tremendous potential for artificial intelligence in formulation and ingredient discovery and product testing and even consumer insights.
Deanna: Share your vision with us there. Will you, um, what is a digital product development lab? I
Emily: much how, you know, we, we see it, um, for Oriflame that, you know, the, the traditional ways of, uh, [00:04:00] developing, developing products, um, are very much, uh, relevant still to, you know, the, the, um, the quality and the, um, The assurance of our, you know, product development philosophy. However, we know that in the future, you know, AI is really going to be the enabler of making those products, um, in a more effective way, you know, translating consumer insights into sort of more targeted.
Emily: Personalized products. Um, I, you know, I sort of explain it that rather than developing, you know, a hundred, um, formulations before you get the right formula using AI and machine learning and predictive modeling, we will be able to do that in a much quicker, um, a quicker time. And also it will make what we're doing much more accurate, um, to meet consumer needs.
Emily: And I think that's just going to be really important. In the future, [00:05:00] um, because I think that, you know, understanding our consumers is crucial to delivering relevant products in the future.
Deanna: like what you're saying about accuracy, but also efficiency. It's, it's exciting to think about what's possible when, when people get help from technology, isn't it? Mm
Emily: And I, I think it's something that, you know, we, we need to embrace and can really help even from the ingredient discovery, um, you know, the data mining and how we can accelerate that to, um, you know, Utilize the best of nature as well and what's available. So I think it's a very exciting time. And, you know, I think in the future we will see new capabilities and, um, you know, sort of expertise in R& D's, you know, data scientists, you know, linking in with the formulation scientists to, to really then enable a much more effective product [00:06:00] development in the future.
Deanna: The connection among the different folks who are involved in product development and and product creation. I think there's there's great potential there. Thank you for suggesting that. Um, we know, as you've, as you've said, that Oriflame reaches consumers in more than 60 markets.
Deanna: I want to think about what that geographic complexity means for product development. How are you creating a product that makes sense and meets consumer expectations across so many markets?
Emily: Good question. And I think that firstly, I do really believe that there's certain attributes about products that are universal. For example, um, everybody is looking for safe products for performing products and products that are responsible with a good sustainability profile. So that is really what underpins.
Emily: You know, our product development philosophy, and we ensure that all our products meet those, um, those [00:07:00] criteria, but of course, we have to be mindful that, you know, we have many different, um, uh, consumers in many different environmental conditions, um, with different skin types. So, part of what, what enables us to then develop, you know.
Emily: Relevant products is really understanding that, uh, you know, so understanding our consumers and what they're looking for. So we do a lot of, you know, consumer insight. We do a lot of research on, on skin, on, um, you know, skin physiology, preferences, the texture requirements that, that our consumers are looking for.
Emily: Um, to firstly enable us then to kind of understand, you know, the, the differences, but also the commonalities. Another aspect then which I think is very important is how we test the products to ensure then that okay if we are you know need to make certain claims about you know humidity proof or climate proof or long wear that we're doing it in the right [00:08:00] environment to make sure that.
Emily: You know, we're not doing it in an environment where it's not relevant. And I think that's really, really important to, to make sure then that our products are performing in the right, um, uh, you know, climatic conditions, for example. Um, And then, I mean, my background in color cosmetics, it enables us then to create a portfolio of, let's say, shades of foundations or lipsticks where our different markets can choose from them and choose, you know, what is most relevant.
Emily: But I would say what really enables it is this kind of dynamic discussion that we always have with our, um, you know, with our, with our Markets and with our consumers to really have that strong understanding of what they're looking for. Um, I think that has to be the foundation to it all.
Deanna: that's wonderful. That's very helpful. Can you share any, any further notes on how you're actually gathering and analyzing consumer insight?
Emily: Yeah, I mean, you know, we, we do a lot of that from the R& D [00:09:00] side where I'm based, but also we have a consumer insights team as well from the marketing side. Firstly, we connect very well together on, you know, the, um, the insights that come in and, and some of it is our, our own, um, research that we carry out, you know, on, on skin, for example, or on preferences, um, but also it's, um, you know, we may have specific projects that we want to know more about, you know, from a wellbeing perspective and, um, Um, Trying to understand as much as possible how people use the products, you know, how are they interacting with the products?
Emily: Um, and, uh, what are their pain points and how are they, uh, you know, evolving where they, um, want to interact with beauty and wellbeing solutions in the future.
Deanna: Wonderful. Wonderful. I appreciate you sharing that. We've mentioned a few times that AuraFlame is headquartered in Sweden, and I do think that's [00:10:00] important. Um, Cosmo Factory listeners will recall my interview in episode six with, uh, Johanna Runcke of an import export company called Nordic Beauty Inc. In that episode, she and I talked a bit about what we what we called the Nordic sensibility in terms of environmental sustainability and ethics, but also about the region's reputation as a technology innovator.
Deanna: If you're listening and haven't yet heard that interview, when you finish with today's episode, do go back and listen to episode six. But here today, I want to continue thinking about the Nordic sensibility. I've noticed that the word mark for Oriflame Sweden, um, is Oriflame Sweden, right?
Deanna: With the word Sweden as well. And some of your supplement packaging even says created in Sweden, right on the pack. I'm wondering if you can share what that represents about the brand, what it means for your brand partners and your consumers.
Emily: yes. I mean, I, I think it really goes to the core of, you know, you know, I think Sweden is, um, very well known for its technology. As you [00:11:00] say, it's, it's, um, I would say quality as well. You know, these are some of the words that you recognize, um, but also this focus on nature, sustainability, health, um, You know, we're inspired by that and, and that, that translates very much into us, you know, our products, the, um, you know, trying to use the minimum amount of ingredients, um, but still having a focus on performance and sustainability.
Emily: Also, I would say, you know, we have a very entrepreneurial spirit in, um, in our company, which stems from our founders and stems from that Swedish, um, ethos also that I think also inspires this, uh, recognized. Um, culture around innovation, which is very, very important. Um, also, you know, Sweden is one of the, the, the happiest [00:12:00] countries in the world.
Emily: And, and I think, um, you know, now as we focus more on wellbeing and optimism and positivity, um, and really having a sort of more holistic approach to wellbeing, we really take inspiration from. Um, from Sweden and Scandinavia, um, uh, for, from that, uh, to, uh, to really drive then what we do, uh, from a kind of more holistic solution.
Deanna: That's great. That's great. I really, um, I'm glad you shared that perspective. I love that. Um, you mentioned health there early on in your answer. I'm hoping you can tell us now a bit about your line of nutritional supplements and, and more specifically about aura flames, uh, focus on wellbeing.
Emily: Yeah. So very good question there. I think, um, Health and well being is really an aspiration for so many people. And, you know, we see that it's a very holistic solution that people [00:13:00] need to enable them on their own well being journey. For Oriflame, we have We see well being from a kind of multi dimensional perspective, looking at physical well being, emotional well being, social well being, environmental well being, and financial well being.
Emily: To put a focus on that physical well being perspective, this is where, you know, our beauty solutions, but also our, um, our supplements, um, are really, you know, enabling people to, uh, achieve, uh, as much as they can from, uh, you know, their, their physical, uh, health and wellbeing. So we, we have a range of supplements, um, you know, wellness packs, multivitamins, omegas, probiotics, um, and new products launching all the time to really help people, especially with a busy lifestyle.
Emily: I mean, firstly and foremostly, we endure. You know, uh, a, um, a Nordic, uh, diet, which is, [00:14:00] you know, uh, validated also from the World Health Organization as, um, really being very positive from a health perspective, but for people who don't have the opportunity to, um, always. Um, get the, the nutrition that they need from food.
Emily: This is where our supplements can, can support them in their wellbeing journey. So, um, I think what's really interesting for Oriflame as well is how we can combine the beauty solution and the nutrition and supplement solution to create a more, um, you know, solution orientated, um, for wellbeing.
Deanna: I appreciate that you're helping us think about how Oriflame really is intentionally moving towards more holistic approach or maybe has always had this holistic approach. I'm curious, um, if you've gotten into some of these more uncommon beauty categories, are you in the women's hormonal health space or any other sort of notable, what can we call them, peripheral categories?
Emily: Yes. I mean. You know, [00:15:00] on women's health, um, that is a big focus for us. And, you know, in some ways it has always been because, you know, we've always, um, you know, women's health and the, the symptoms, let's say in terms of, um, from a beauty perspective and from a nutrition perspective, we've always had solutions in our, in our portfolio to, um, for, for women.
Emily: However, we are doing more research now on, um, you know, the impacts of hormone on, um, on skin and ensuring that we have then the right, um, solutions, you know, for perimenopause and postmenopause. And we see more and more that, you know, We will have more solutions around, um, you know, the diagnostics around for women's health and hormonal well being in the future.
Emily: But I think a big part of it as well is really the education part so that [00:16:00] again, women can be empowered to understand why, um, why their You know, the impact of, of hormones and why their body is changing and, and, and, you know, then how they can be empowered to, um, you know, to, with the lifestyle factors that really can, can help them, but also we want to offer them the, the product solutions that can, um, enable them to feel their best at times when, when it's needed.
Emily: Um, so I see that that's an evolving. area of research for us, but also in the industry. And it's quite exciting to, to see some of the latest, um, science that's emerging there. Uh,
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. You mentioned education, which is always, you know, an interesting space that often falls to marketers. Um, but I'm assuming your brand partners, um, folks that we might think of as consultants or representatives for aura flame are also helping with that consumer education piece. Can you share a little bit about how that is, [00:17:00] how that is managed or how it transpires for you?
Deanna: Sure.
Emily: exactly. And I, and I think also, um, that, that connection with our brand partners is really, you know, it's, it's so crucial and so important. And also because now there's such a focus on, on, on science and really understanding. I guess the root cause, um, of why, you know, um, there's, there's changes or what's happening in your skin or what's happening, um, from a, an emotional wellbeing perspective, also from our role in R& D.
Emily: Really connecting with our brand partners and, and creating more, um, material really in terms of, uh, being able to educate and empower, you know, uh, people so that they can support consumers around understanding why, and then how to, how to, um, you know, find the solutions that they're looking for. So [00:18:00] that is a big focus and, and.
Emily: Also, how we can, you know, um, find the ways to communicate these very complicated scientific topics in a way that's engaging and motivating and also doesn't feel overwhelming. I think that's Sort of the, the focus for us and, uh, and something that we really want to put a lot of effort into. Um, so, you know, we, we meet with our brand partners, we connect with them and there's a very direct, um, connection there.
Deanna: Wonderful. Wonderful. That sounds helpful. Thank you. Um, earlier in our conversation, you mentioned, uh, testing and efficacy. Um, I'm wondering, About quality of life and self perception. I believe in an earlier conversation, you told me you're intentionally moving away from what we think of as conventional claims like anti wrinkle benefits and that sort of thing.
Deanna: Tell us more about some of these, these newer sorts of benefit claims and what product testing [00:19:00] looks like at Oriflame.
Emily: Yeah. I mean, I think this is just one of the most exciting. You know, sort of areas within, um, beauty at the moment and I, I, I, although yes, we're, we're evolving, of course, those, you know, anti wrinkle, uh, claims and test methods are still very, very important. But I think what's happening is they're, they're evolving more and it's, it is a lot more around, you know, the.
Emily: Um, you know, the, the perception and of, of consumers. And this is where this kind of skin brain connection, and we're focused a lot more on, you know, neuroscience and how, how really not only help products make people look, but how they make them feel. Um, and you know, quality of life works for example, and the, the, the ways to.
Emily: Develop to validate and substantiate that is where we're moving a lot more in the future. Um, you know, even on the topic of [00:20:00] longevity and, you know, how there's, that's shaping this sort of, um, I guess, health span and lifespan. Span, um, movement. Um, and so I see that that's really going to shape the future of, of the beauty sector.
Emily: And, uh, we have a number of, of initiatives and projects that, uh, uh, are, are coming down the line there. But you will see a lot more of this sort of, um, yeah, the focus on the emotional wellbeing and the substantiation around that. But I certainly think that that's really the, the future for, for, you know, skin health, well being and beauty.
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. No, that makes very good sense. And I concur 100%. We're seeing, you know, much of much of that, um, conversation in terms of longevity. I hear the term reverse aging, um, but also, um, the emotional benefits of product and literally, you know, measuring that and, and thinking about what What neurocosmetics means, [00:21:00] um, super important, and that's very exciting.
Deanna: Um, we do like to talk about innovation here on Cosmo Factory, um, and your work includes innovation strategy, I believe. So I'm hoping you can tell us what innovation means at AuraFlame and maybe even share how you've developed some of your patented technologies or something else innovative.
Emily: yeah, happy to. Um, well, you know, innovation really is at the, the core of what we do in, in Oriflame. Um, and of course, you know, we have an innovation, um, strategy and part of my role is really identifying those. territories of where, where we're going to play and, um, focus our research and innovation efforts in the future.
Emily: Um, working with, you know, cross functional teams from the, you know, ingredient discovery, product evaluation, product development. Um, you know, when it comes to patents and, you know, We see patent is very important, uh, [00:22:00] factor in, um, delivering unique innovation. Um, so I mean, for us, it's about firstly, again, going back to the consumer and what is the, you know, the, concern or the skin health concern, uh, that we're trying to address.
Emily: Um, and then we have a team of people looking at, you know, okay, that, what are the, what are the concerns that we're trying to address? What are the potential, um, you know, bioactive materials that we can, uh, that we can work with to address those concerns. And then what are the, you know, the, uh, Sources of those materials, you know, especially looking at, you know, plant materials, which would be one of our, our key, um, focuses and then looking at, you know, how we can, um, uh, deliver efficacy in, in those.
Emily: And of course, I can't speak too much about our, our patent development process, but I've given too much away. So, um, but it's a very, very thorough process. [00:23:00] Um, it can, you know, uh, it can be, you know, a five, seven year, uh, long process, but, you know, it goes through quite a substantive, uh, testing rigorous process, um, before that it then results in a, in a patented technology.
Emily: But, you know, I think this is what then makes our, uh, especially our skincare really unique and, and high performing. Um, so, you know, It's sort of, uh, represents really our focus on innovation and an efficacy.
Deanna: Very good. You used the term, um, a bit earlier in our conversation, environmental wellbeing. What can you share with us about the Aura Flame approach to environmental sustainability?
Emily: Uh, again, I mean, this is sort of bit really been part of our, our roots from the start and, you know, um, how we develop our products, um, has always been inspired by, by nature. So, you know, we, we have a [00:24:00] focus on, um, you know, utilizing ingredients that are, um, you know, from a. renewable source where possible you taking inspiration from nature and using, um, natural ingredients when it's, uh, you know, safe and responsible to do so.
Emily: And then also looking at more, you know, renewable sources, uh, for our ingredients as well. So, I mean, it's a very, very thorough, um, Process around our, you know, our sustainability, including, you know, eco ethical screening of ingredients, um, evaluating then the, um, the, you know, how we develop, how we can reduce water and more, um, sort of less energy, uh, from a production perspective, um, And also then from a, a packaging perspective, how we can use more recyclable materials, um, you know, [00:25:00] renewable energy in our factories.
Emily: So it's, it's a very kind of multi stage, um, and sort of, yes, product and lifecycle approach that we have from a sustainability perspective, but it's, it's really key and core to how we develop our products.
Deanna: Yeah, that makes sense. That makes sense. Well, Emily, thank you. This has been a very smart and wide ranging interview. I'm so glad that you could join me today on the Cosmo Factory podcast.
Emily: Thank you. It's been a real pleasure.
Deanna: Awesome. You're fabulous. We did it.
Emily: Oh, goodness. How was that?
Deanna: Yeah, no, no, you did well. You did well. Thank you so much.
Emily: good. I hope you can find something in there that is relevant and useful to your listeners.
Deanna: Yeah, no, it was excellent. Thank you. I really, I really appreciate your taking the time to do this and speak with me. Um, was it last week and then again today? This was, this was great. I'm glad to have met you.
Emily: Good. I'm glad to have met you and I look forward to hearing [00:26:00] it when it comes out and hopefully it will be well received.
Deanna: Oh, I'm sure. I'm sure. If you want to hold on one second, I can try to find the document that will let me predict when your episode will show up.
Deanna: Um, so probably, um, one of the last weeks of August. Um, um, but yeah, later this summer, um, you know, there's always, you know, a little space for editorial
Emily: Yes.
Deanna: but, um, and you will get an email. I will, um, Um, yeah, it will almost certainly be me, but, um, someone will email you letting you know that the episode is live and we'll share some, um, graphic if you want to put your face on and say that you were on the podcast, that's, that's an option to promote as well.
Deanna: Um, but yeah, really appreciate this. Thank you so much, Emily.
Emily: Do you think it was okay
Deanna: Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. I mean, you know, you know, one of the, it's funny because people do get, you know, uh, It's a new experience for a lot of people. They're not a, [00:27:00] not a usual experience. You know, it's not probably a normal part of your day, but, um, you know, yourself and, and everyone that we're inviting to speak on the podcast, you know, your work, right?
Deanna: You're, you know, you're a specialist, you're, you're more than capable of sharing good information about this. So, um, yeah, it was super fine.
Emily: good. Okay. Well, look, it was a real pleasure and I'm glad to have made the connection with
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. Likewise. Likewise.
Emily: Thank
Deanna: Yes. Take care, Emily.
[00:28:00]