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Struggles with focus, relaxation, and sleep? Join Space Cat KoKo as she reads vintage Earth handbooks, manuals, and how to books, in a calm and relaxing voice. Podcast episodes released every Tuesday and Thursday.
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And now, Part Three of Four, the continuation of,
Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
by Ford Motor Company
PUBLISHED 1919
If the Coil and Plug are right, what?
Answer Number Sixty-Three
The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected. It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky, permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.
Does a worn Commutator ever cause misfiring?
Answer Number Sixty-four
Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the commutator. The surface of the circle around which roller (see Cut Number Nine) travels should be clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller fails to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points, its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces, if dirty. In case the fiber, contact points and roller of the commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory remedy is to replace them with new parts. The spring should be strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty.
Misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires.
How is the Commutator removed?
Answer Number Sixty-Five
Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.
In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is replaced so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of Number One valve.
Does cold weather affect the Commutator?
Answer Number Sixty-Six
It is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fiber. This, of course, makes difficult starting as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact points. To overcome this, as well as any liability of the contact points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is in the condition described above and, as a consequence, a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.
(CUT NUMBER TEN: Ford Magneto. The flywheel with magnets revolves while magneto coils remain stationary)
How is the Magneto removed?
Answer Number Sixty-Seven
It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car (see Answer Number Thirty-Two) in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover, take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these parts, or any parts of the car, the utmost care should be taken to make sure that the parts are so marked that they may be replaced properly.
When the Magneto gets out of order, what?
Answer Number Sixty-Eight
The Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength, unless acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachment of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to try to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house and will be placed on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil spool just one thirty-second of an inch. To take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw which holds each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating under the contact spring, which is held in place by the binding post on top of the crank case cover. Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place, remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed.
(CUT NUMBER ELEVEN: Transmission showing all gears in mesh)
PART SIX: THE FORD TRANSMISSION
What is the function of the Transmission?
Answer Number Sixty-Nine
It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the crank shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed.
What is meant by the term "Planetary Transmission?"
Answer Number Seventy
One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most direct means of speed control and is a distinct advantage of the Ford car.
What is the purpose of the Clutch?
Answer Number Seventy-One
If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differential, and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels, the car would start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get it started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.
How is the Clutch controlled?
Answer Number Seventy-Two
By the left pedal at the driver's feet (see Answer Number Ten). If the clutch pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not come back readily into high, tighten up the slow speed band as directed in Answer Number Seventy-Four. Should the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that the clutch lever screw, which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of one and three fourths of an inch in passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. Also be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being adjusted too tight. Do not use a too heavy grade of oil in cold weather as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.
How is the Clutch adjusted?
Answer Number Seventy-Three
Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floorboards at the driver's feet. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the right with a screwdriver. Do the same to the other finger set screws. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and don't forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screws in too far.
(CUT NUMBER TWELVE: The above drawing of Transmission shows clearly the operation of Clutch, Reverse and Brake Pedals)
CAUTION: Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them. Otherwise, if they are dropped into the transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the transmission cover.
How are the Bands adjusted?
Answer Number Seventy-Four
The slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover and turning the adjusting screw (see Cut Number Twelve) to the right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right. See that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the car immediately or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly, should be relined, so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be had at any Ford service station at small cost.
How are the Bands removed?
Answer Number Seventy-Five
Remove the starting motor (see Answer Number One Hundred and Twenty-Eight). Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening is downward. The band can now be removed by lifting upward. The operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing this operation, the bands may be installed. After being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be placed in the rear groove of the clutch shift. With the cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed.
How is the Transmission assembled?
Answer Number Seventy-Six
Cut Number Thirteen shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of assembling. The first operation is the assembling of group Number Two, which is as follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical position, place the slow speed plate over the hub with gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being downward. After making sure that the triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in a vertical position; then invert the group which you have assembled over the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put a large disc over the clutch drum, then a small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on top.
(CUT NUMBER THIRTEEN: Transmission parts in their relative assembling positions)
If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch drum in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the clutch push ring over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs with the three pins projecting upward (see Group Number Four, Cut Number Thirteen). You will note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further, it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled, they will revolve freely. The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the clutch spring, placing the clutch support inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around.
(CUT NUMBER FOURTEEN: The Rear Axle System)
And now … the interlude
MOON DAUBER DELIGHTS PRESENTS
Chocolate Candy
Ingredients
One cupful of molasses
two cupfuls of sugar
one cupful of milk
one-half pound of chocolate
a piece of butter half the size of an egg
Boil the milk and molasses together, scrape the chocolate fine, and mix with just enough of the boiling milk and molasses to moisten; rub it perfectly smooth, then, with the sugar, stir into the boiling liquid; add the butter, and boil twenty minutes. Try as molasses candy, and if it hardens, pour into a buttered dish. Cut the same as nut candy.
This recipe was found in Chocolate and Cocoa Recipes and Home Made Candy Recipes
Let’s return to the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks
PART SEVEN: THE REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
How is the Rear Axle removed?
Answer Number Seventy-Seven
Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in Answer Number Eighty-Nine. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.
How is the Universal Joint disconnected from the Drive Shaft?
Answer Number Seventy-Eight
Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.
How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?
Answer Number Seventy-Nine
With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential housing together. If necessary to disassemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin, bolt and keylock back in its correct position when reassembling.
How is the Drive Shaft Pinion removed?
Answer Number Eighty
The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter-pinned "castle" nut. Remove the castle nut and drive the pinion off.
How are the Differential Gears Removed?
Answer Number Eighty-One
The differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft. They work upon the differential pinions when turning a corner, so that the axle shafts revolve independently, but when the car is moving in a straight line the differential pinions and differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part. If you examine the rear axle shafts, you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the differential gears, force them down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screwdriver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the shafts.
How is the Rear Axle Shaft removed?
Answer Number Eighty-Two
Disconnect rear axle as directed in Answer Number Seventy-Seven, then unbolt the drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential. Disconnect the radius rods and brake rods at the outer ends of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove the housing. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft out.
After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble.
(CUT NUMBER FIFTEEN: The Ford Emergency Brake)
If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb, or other accident, it is false economy to drive the car without correcting the trouble, as tires, gears and all other parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities, be straightened, but it is best to replace it.
PART SEVEN: THE FORD MUFFLER
Why is the Muffler necessary?
Answer Number Eighty-Three
The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.
How is the Muffler disconnected?
Answer Number Eighty-Four
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack nut and remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame. After the muffler has been disconnected it can be disassembled by removing the nut at the rear end.
PART EIGHT: THE RUNNING GEAR
What care should the Running Gear have?
Answer Number Eight-Five
In the first place, at all times, it should have proper lubrication (see chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring connections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lubricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with cotter pins in place. The spring clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected frequently to see that everything is in perfect order.
How is the Front Axle removed?
Answer Number Eighty-Six
Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed (see Answer Number Eighty-Nine), disconnect steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front spring.
To disconnect radius rod from axle, remove cotter-pinned nuts. To remove radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.
In case of accident, how is the Front Axle straightened?
Answer Number Eighty-Seven
Should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, as this will untemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return such parts to the dealer, where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It is very essential that the wheels line up properly (see Answer Number Ninety).
(CUT NUMBER SIXTEEN: The Ford Spindle and Front Hub Assembly)
The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.
What about the Wheels?
Answer Number Eighty-Eight
The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning a front wheel a sharp click occurs now and then and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed, otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect adjustment should, after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction, due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too tight. It is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub well filled with grease.
How are the Wheels removed?
Answer Number Eighty-Nine
Front wheels: Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car. Rear wheels: They should not be removed unless absolutely necessary, in which case proceed as above, then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened up. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.
How does the setting of the Front Wheels differ from that of the Rear Wheels?
Answer Number Ninety
It will be observed that the front wheels are "dished;" that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance, while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle, that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however, "toe-in" at the front, at least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.
What about installing Roller Bearing Cups?
Answer Number Ninety-One
Whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups, either in changing over from ball bearings to roller bearings or in replacing worn cups, the work should be done by a Dealer or Garage which has the necessary equipment for this work. In order to avoid excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups be fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without the use of special equipment.
(CUT NUMBER SEVENTEEN: Sectional view of Hub showing Roller Bearings)
How are the Roller Bearings installed?
Answer Number Ninety-Two
First, pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease. Take the inner cone with its rollers and pack it with grease, filling all of the space around and between the rollers. Then place the inner cone in the larger cup. Next, drive the dust ring with felt washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the end of the hub.
Place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the spindle. The inner cone is a one-thousandth fit, or, in other words, a slip fit on the spindle. (See Cut Number Seventeen) It is never necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the cups are forced into the hub. Pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers with cup grease, filling all the space between the rollers, as was done with the inner cone. The cones are made up in right-and left-hand threads to correspond to the threads on the spindles. Care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not forced onto a left-hand threaded spindle. The right-hand thread is on the left-hand side of the car, while the left-hand thread is on the right-hand side of the car. Place the cone on the spindle, running it up tight enough so that the wheel seems to bind; give the wheel a few turns to be sure that all the working parts are in perfect contact; then back off the cone one-fourth to one-half a turn which will be sufficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play.
To determine if there is end play, grasp the spokes and shake the wheel. Do not mistake loose spindle bushings for loose bearings. Insert a cold chisel between axle and spindle to take up any play while testing the bearings. Next, put on the spindle washer and nut, drawing the nut to a firm bearing. Be sure that the cone has not been forced out of adjustment. This can be determined by giving the wheel a few turns. Insert the cotter pin which locks the nut on the spindle, fill the hub cap with grease and screw it in place on the hub.
How often should the Bearings be lubricated?
Answer Number Ninety-Three
Every three or four months the wheels should be removed, the old grease taken out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed with kerosene. Then repack the hub and bearings with clean grease and readjust the bearings.
What care do the Springs need?
Answer Number Ninety-Four
The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them, when necessary, with a quick drying black paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.
Should Spring Clips be kept tight?
Answer Number Ninety-Five
Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the center of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.
What about the Steering Apparatus?
Answer Number Ninety-Six
It is exceedingly simple and will need little care, except, of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the "sun and planet" form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel (see Cut Number One). By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap, after having removed the steering wheel, they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel, unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.
How is Steering Gear tightened?
Answer Number Ninety-Seven
Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones (see Cut Number Sixteen). Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the car has been in service two or three years, excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the steering wheel spider.
It is also advisable to inspect the front spring and front spring perches occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any excessive vibration.
(CUT NUMBER EIGHTEEN: Lubrication Chart)
That is the end of part three of four, the Ford Manual for Owners and Operators of Ford Cars and Trucks.
If you would like to experience driving a Ford Truck, The Ice Cream Nebula Station has simulator units on deck 22. Unit number 101 has a program to drive a Ford Truck from 1919. Once you figure out how to drive the truck, there are different landscapes you can select for driving practice.
Thank you for listening. You can find Sleepy Reads in your favorite Podcast App, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Sleepy Reads is produced by Spicy Pony Design. For more information and transcripts, go to SpicyPonyDesign.com.