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Every Tuesday on the CosmoFactory podcast: Discover the latest innovations along the cosmetics and personal care supply chain. Hear thought-provoking conversations with top beauty industry experts from around the world. Learn about next-level solutions and find inspiration to turn your own ideas into industry-changing innovations.
A PRODUCTION OF Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna
CosmoFactory is the first podcast from Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna—the most important beauty trade show in the world. Dedicated to all sectors of the industry, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna welcomes over 250,000 visitors from 150 countries and regions and nearly 3,000 exhibitors to Bologna, Italy, each year. It’s where our diverse and international industry comes together to build business relationships and to discover the best brands and newest innovations across consumer beauty, professional beauty, and the entire supply chain. The trade show includes a robust program of exclusive educational content, featuring executives and key opinion leaders from every sector of the cosmetics, fragrance, and personal care industry. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the most important event of the Cosmoprof international network, with exhibitions in Asia (Hong Kong), the US (Las Vegas and Miami), India (Mumbai) and Thailand (Bangkok). Thanks to its global exhibitions Cosmoprof connects a community of more than 500,000 beauty stakeholders and 10,000 companies from 190 countries and regions. Learn more today at Cosmoprof.com
CosmoFactory was co-developed in collaboration with supply-side expert Deanna Utroske, Host of the CosmoFactory podcast and Editor of the Beauty Insights newsletter.
This transcript is automatically generated.
Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about the science of bioactives, about purposeful ingredient blends. Novel extraction technologies about ethical sourcing and traditional indigenous harvesting practices. It's about global distribution partnerships and much more. Joining me for this episode of the Cosmo Factory podcast is Andrea Temana, the executive director of Organic Bioactives.
Deanna: Welcome.
Andrea: Thank you very much for having me.
Deanna: Yeah. No, I'm so glad you could join us. Thank you. Um, something I did not mention, [00:01:00] Andrea, in our introduction to this episode is that Organic Bioactives is based in New Zealand. I'm wondering what it is about the culture, the climate, maybe the country's biodiversity that makes New Zealand a good place for sourcing natural ingredients.
Andrea: Well, I'm not sure. Have you ever been to New Zealand? But.
Deanna: No, not yet.
Andrea: Zealand, New Zealand is very magic place. Um, it's magic for different reasons. Obviously it's fantastic playground for scientists. We have a lot of innovation. New Zealand is known for innovation, uh, in different fields, not only, you know, in agriculture, uh, Uh, also in different, in, um, biotech.
Andrea: The other technology, uh, new Zealanders are very creative, very innovative, and I'm privileged to be in New Zealand. So, um, I just pick up that spirit, [00:02:00] you know, for innovation and may maybe elevated. It's to the point that, uh, I completely fell in love with. New Zealand environment, New Zealand botanicals, um, New Zealand landscape.
Andrea: And this is, you know, this is really, really inspirational for me. Um, but, uh, from the geographical point of view, New Zealand is a very unique country as well. Specifically, if we're talking agriculture, um, nutraceuticals, our food, um, the cosmetic ingredients at the end, we are. witnessing the presence of ozone hole above New Zealand, which gives a very distinctive place, you know, if we compare the, the quality of antioxidants and polyphenols and other bioactives in botanicals compared to other botanicals that might be growing in the other parts of [00:03:00] the world.
Andrea: Or to our endemic ones. Why? Because the ozone hole causes the elevated level of UVB radiation. And we know how harmful is that to our skin. Um, but what happened in botanical worlds, the botanicals, the plants, they had to adapt to those harmful conditions. So they created a specific, um, protecting, um, actives, bioactives, um, in New Zealand science, we call them natural own SPF factors to protect themselves against harmful free free radicals coming from UVB radiation.
Andrea: And you can imagine, um, the elevated, um, Amounts of antioxidants of polyphenols or other bioactive compounds. This is where we start from. So our starting position, you know, in [00:04:00] harvesting botanicals, obtaining raw materials, biomass is of premium quality.
Deanna: Yeah. Excellent. Thank you. That's very helpful to know. Thank you so much. Um, today I would describe Organic Bioactives, um, as an award winning international ingredient supplier. But when you and I were, uh, first met, uh, several years ago, I think when you were getting started initially, um, you were leading an independent consumer facing beauty brand.
Deanna: Tell us why you decided to pivot your business to the supply side of the industry. Okay.
Andrea: Well, um, yeah, that's right. That's quite some time ago that we made for time. And well, um, when I moved to New Zealand 15 years ago, I. It was all about my melasma. Melasma was on my face for 22 years. So I, I was really trying to do everything. I worked with a dermatologist. I worked in the medicine field that was really, [00:05:00] um, focusing on recovering the skin.
Andrea: However, I couldn't ever, um, Got rid of my melasma. And when I came to New Zealand, I came across very interesting botanicals and, um, like would say Garish made formulations that I was tempted to try. And what happened over a couple of months, my melasma started to diminish significantly. So it was my, you know, like, literally, um, the point that when I decided I need to study this to understand why that happened.
Deanna: Right.
Andrea: It brought me to, you know, to studying cosmetic chemistry, understanding the mechanic mechanism of action behind the ingredients that, so that enabled me to create a small brand of [00:06:00] cosmetic products for myself. And this was actually the drive for me, you know, to create something that would help other women around the world to, you know, Um, with hyperpigmentations, with uneven skin tone, and even with melasma.
Andrea: That's why we meet.
Deanna: I love it. I love it. Thank you. Um, yeah. And, and you decided to, to pivot to the supply side. Tell us a little bit about that transition into becoming an ingredient company. And if you don't mind to, um, yeah, as you do that, maybe share some of, some of your education. You mentioned studying cosmetic chemistry.
Deanna: Um, you are, um, a ridiculously capable scientist at this point. Um, give us a bit, a bit of your background, but then talk us through that transition as well. How did you become.
Andrea: Okay. Let's, let's cover that one, that part first. Um, so when I was in New Zealand and I, um, found [00:07:00] the magic ingredient, you know, to treat my skin condition, skincare conditions, but with incredible anti aging properties, um, then I had to formulate. a formula, you know, a skin care formula. So I was, uh, I really wanted to be as authentic as I could be at that time.
Andrea: So I wanted New Zealand ingredients. I wanted everything to be New Zealand. Obviously I couldn't find all of the New Zealand ingredients and raw materials. And, uh, in fact, I couldn't find any at all. So I said, how is that even possible? So New Zealand at that time did not have cosmetic actives, um, business developed.
Andrea: So we were not known to be, you know, the, like France, that we have abundance of cosmetic actives companies, uh, multinationals. New Zealand was more known for nutraceuticals. [00:08:00] But having said that, nutraceuticals are very interesting fields. So, you know, if in, in general, if something is that potent and fantastic for our bodies, it's might have a great potential for our skin as well.
Andrea: So I said, well, if there's nothing on the market, I'm going to do it. So I said, but how I'm going to do it, I'm not a scientist, I was not a scientist. So I'm a researcher. I am a researcher. I'm not a trained scientist. I'm a researcher with, um, quite comprehensive knowledge in the field of, you know, in the medicine, uh, because I worked in that field.
Andrea: I, I understood skin regeneration, the skin cycle, the, you know, the, the, the nature of the biggest organ, if you like, but. Um, I didn't have any [00:09:00] chemistry knowledge at that point to develop stable and market appealing skincare products. And I wanted to do that. So at my, when I was 50, I decided I'm going to study cosmetic chemistry, even though I hated chemistry.
Andrea: But when I was And, um, you know that I'm not, I was not born in New Zealand. I was born in Slovenia. English is not my mother language. So I studied chemistry that I hated and I had to do my studies in English and do all of the written exams in English. So it was very challenging, but I did it. So, um, and the main purpose was I wanted to develop.
Andrea: I loved organic formulations, but I didn't like organic products and natural products, you know, back in time, how they looked like and [00:10:00] feel like 15 years
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah.
Andrea: Yeah. So that's why I said, okay, I have to develop ingredients that, um, not only they are going to elevate the efficacy and give the proven clinical efficacy behind the completely natural organic product, but I also wanted to create an amazing sensorial profile for, for organic formulations.
Deanna: Wonderful. Let's, let's move ahead, um, and think about the ingredient portfolio you have. What are some of the ingredients you're most well known for?
Andrea: Okay. So. Uh, it's definitely our initial range of products. Um, that's marine actives, uh, inspired, uh, by New Zealand endemic red algae. So the, the name of the, the, of the portfolio in marine activities, ocean dermics. So it's, it's from ocean and doing something to our mix. So it's [00:11:00] a range of it's, there are four ingredients.
Andrea: Uh, four marine actives in ocean dermis range that are speaking to, um, four of the biggest skin concerns, if you like. So, uh, aging, premature, um, premature aging and aging process of the skin, uh, wrinkles, sagging. Uh, here we have ocean dermis lift and firm. We have. Obviously, due to my melasma and my passion for anything that's hyperpigmentation, we also have ocean dermis balance and brighten, which, which is a very unique ingredient that, um, is a unique, um, um, alliance of different botanicals that are Uh, all addressing pigmentation, but, uh, through different pathways, um, then we have, um, Ocean Dermics Calm and Soothe.
Andrea: So, [00:12:00] um, Alliance of different other actives that are speaking to irritated skin, sensitive skin, oversensitized skin. And, um, one of our. quite popular from Ocean Dermics, Restore and Protect. Um, and this one, this one was developed to address, um, urban pollution, free radicals coming from pollution, sun damage, uh, and internal and external, uh, skin aggressors.
Deanna: Great. Great. Thank you for that. Are you able to share, um, any upcoming launches, um, or what's in the pipeline or, or if you'd like to, um, explain some of the other ingredient lines, cause I know you have, have offers beyond Ocean Derm X.
Andrea: Yes, of course. So, um, uh, planted dermics range, uh, followed the initial ocean dermics, and we created planted dermics range for single botanical extracts. So [00:13:00] we, so the ocean dermics is a synchronized Alliance of different actives put together, um, to, to synchronistically address, um, one skin concern.
Deanna: Right. I would think of those and tell me if I'm wrong here, Andrea, like as ingredient blends. Does that make sense? Is that correct?
Andrea: uh,
Deanna: It's, it's more complicated than that.
Andrea: So if, if we say blends, I would say that a lot of people might think, okay, you, uh, uh, creating one extract second, the third and the fourth, and then you blend them together, but we don't do that. We don't create our actives on that way. So the, the unique sell the unique selling point or unique.
Andrea: angle of, of innovation is extracting raw fresh materials at the same time together
Deanna: Okay.
Andrea: for the, for different reasons. So it's not a blending, um, [00:14:00] different botanicals that are already pre extracted together. So that's the unique, uh, innovative
Deanna: Right. And again, let me, if I can just repeat it. So I, I understand you correctly. Instead of putting together like individual fractions, you're actually doing a more holistic sort of extract. Is that okay? Okay. Yeah. Awesome. I don't think I realized that before. Thank you.
Andrea: Yes. Yeah, that's that's the uniqueness. And the reason for that is specifically with marine actives that the our core core. Um, and the core ingredient in ocean dermis is a New Zealand and Democrit algae. And that particular red algae has a very unique structure of sulfated polysaccharides that we call marine glycans.
Andrea: And, you know, from the glycobiology science, we know how glycans are important, [00:15:00] not only for our skin, but in general. for us, for our own existence. So those particular marine glycans from our algae are quite resembling our skin glycans. And, you know, and that's, and because of their chemical structure, they are biopolymers.
Andrea: They are quite, uh, inviting for other actives from other, from botanicals, or synthetically produced actives like, you know, uh, retinols or, uh, or other, um, actives that might be synthetically produced to invite them on their, um, network of, Polymers, right? Of the polysaccharides. So that's the reason and the, the innovative angle behind our, uh, behind the creation of ocean dermics, why we do it on a different way.
Andrea: So we are attracting the [00:16:00] active molecules from independent botanicals onto the network of polysaccharides. So they, because we know that glycan is the main function. functional, um, the function of glycans is delivery to be a delivery system, right? So, and, and we don't need a lot of materials because the delivery system is fantastic.
Andrea: So we can create, um, low, very sustainable, low impact, environmental impact, uh, product. for high yields of bioactives.
Deanna: Wonderful. I love that. Thank you. And we've, we've talked around the idea of extraction a bit. Help us understand your unique extraction technologies. I know you have several patents there and a fairly new one as well.
Andrea: So, um, as mentioned, so we have our own way of how to, how to [00:17:00] marry together different actives from different botanicals. And, um, the, when I started with innovation back in 2012, I was, um, I certainly didn't want to use any chemicals in the process. So I wanted to be as green as natural as possible. So for me, the only option was, uh, researching, um, mechanical extraction, uh, chemicals.
Andrea: Techniques or methods that, uh, that scientific prove behind so that, uh, are commonly used in science in obtaining actives from botanicals on mechanical way. So usually that would be understood by, uh, breaking or popping, um, plant cell membranes and the release of active materials either into a solvent or using a direct extraction.[00:18:00]
Andrea: So. But, uh, but when I was doing like, you know, I spent a couple of years, more than two years in, uh, in desktop research only, and I realized that independent mechanical methods that scientists use, they have positive sides, but they also have negative sides. So one was for something, but it was not. the best for the other actives, for example.
Andrea: So I said, why wouldn't we, um, utilize them? Why wouldn't we kind of, um, put them together in different steps so that we can, that we holistically You know, the extraction and that we, that we literally get out as much as actives as possible. So that was our initial TPT extraction, which refers to [00:19:00] a three part tight extraction.
Andrea: So parts of the extraction process. And, um, then later on, we developed, that was for marine actives because it's fairly different process extracting algae. Um, in water based solution than other plant extractions. So later on, based on the initial knowledge, we developed plant extraction that's specifically focused for our planted or mix range where we are.
Andrea: working and playing with one plant only as during extraction process. Um, and then we also created a, um, we, we, um, recognized the, you know, the demand from the market for oil based
Deanna: Yes.
Andrea: there are many oil based actives and we know that it's quite challenging because there are [00:20:00] botanicals and plants. I mean, plants are very complex beings.
Andrea: So you have plentiful of water soluble actives in plants, but you also have some, some of very important oil soluble actives. So, We need to find and, and having said that the oil extraction would most of the time, um, in the science known so far, uh, uh, performed by. Chemicals by ethanol, by ethanol, by alcohols, by other solvents that would be able to, you know, to dissolve and kind of extract oil soluble
Deanna: Right. Right.
Andrea: We didn't want that either. So we created our own way on extract on how to extract oil soluble actives. And this, um, uh, our method, the extraction [00:21:00] technology is called. OCA, OSA, extraction. It's oil soluble actives extraction.
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. Oh, wonderful. Thank you for sharing that. Um, and just quickly, I'm wondering, are you, do you think you're seeing the demand for oil soluble actives more as, um, there's sort of an expectation of skincare benefits in complexion products and that sort of thing? Is it in that space or what category are people looking for this?
Andrea: Um, I'd say it was initially it was a really strong demand from, um, brands that are doing waterless or, you know, water free products.
Deanna: Yeah.
Andrea: Um, plus makeup, especially, you know, the, the latest trend when we have shades and I, and the highlights in a oil soluble, um, products like a balm, you know, the cheek balms and shades in oil solubles and, and, [00:22:00] um, obviously the latest trends.
Andrea: Where our consumers wants everything to be active.
Deanna: Right.
Andrea: know, we have to provide a multifunctional products that only provide one benefit to the skin, but multiple benefits
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah.
Andrea: That's, that's also the reason I believe why we won L'Oreal Innovation Runaway Award because our actives are not only addressing one skincare problem, like isolated synthetic compounds or isolated actives or isolated molecules.
Andrea: They are holistic. They have holistic approach. So they would deliver a targeting target, targeted solution, but also provide you with Anti aging benefits, if you like, hydrating properties, um, skin protecting properties, sun damage protecting properties. So you [00:23:00] have more of the skin protections, skin biome protection while you are targeting pigmentation, for example.
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. Amazing. Thank you for that. I want to make sure we talk about the ethical sourcing that you've built very intentionally into your business. I know that includes, uh, traditional indigenous harvesting practices, um, and, and partnerships with some indigenous communities in New Zealand. Tell us a little bit about how and why you're, you're partnering there.
Andrea: Yeah. So, um, that's something that we. At one of the core, like, you know, pillars of our business is a very strong, uh, loving collaboration with our indigenous communities. And the reason for that is, um, the fact that New Zealand as a country is incredibly protective and it should be protective, um, towards our biodiversity.
Andrea: More than 70 [00:24:00] percent of, um, uh, New Zealand flora and fauna is still endemic to New Zealand. And we are really putting a lot of effort and, you know, our indigenous people are on the top of that to protect biodiversity. But the, the, the other part is when I moved to New Zealand, I already came. Uh, to New Zealand with a strong sense of, uh, traditional, um, medicine knowledge.
Andrea: So I studied traditional Chinese medicine, traditional Japanese medicine, traditional European, you know, medicine practices. So my holistic awareness and holistic knowledge, uh, uh, towards the, um, human health was quite comprehensive at that time. So it was a natural step towards, um, the Maori culture. So I immersed myself into studying Tereo Maori.
Andrea: So I went to the, you know, Indigenous University. I studied, [00:25:00] um, the, you know, Indigenous practices. I, I wanted to understand their harvesting practices, the, the purpose, the healing benefits behind, but also sustainability practice, sustainability approach. So, um, so just, you know, for me, it was, enough to understand and to understand New Zealand, um, the, the properties of, of New Zealand botanicals in terms of skin health.
Andrea: But we decided to, to leave entire harvesting of, um, uh, botanicals to our indigenous women. Why? Because it's, it's, Number one respect. Um, I'm not a Maori, you know, I, I, I'm not authentic enough in that respect to breathe, to represent our company. So they keep traditions. They keep vast knowledge, fantastic [00:26:00] knowledge about the nature.
Andrea: The, the rhythm of nature, the nature cycles, the botanical knowledge, medicinal knowledge, and that knowledge is passed, you know, through generations. And we still have a very lively, vibrant, and very strong, um, communities. Um, mainly in the women's space that are keeping that knowledge alive and they are still educating younger generations.
Andrea: So we created a, um, collaborative bonds with that kind of, you know, remote local societies. And, um, they are hand harvest, harvesting raw materials for us, which Is not presenting a commercial problem, you know, because I said, Oh, how can you harvest that many, but that much botanicals, you know, for the global scale now, because we developed the low impact, uh, um, extraction technology.
Andrea: So that's not a [00:27:00] problem, but at the same time, we have two strong, um, positive impacts on our product development. Number one is sustainability. So the. Indigenous people, they approach nature for harvesting for their either medicinal benefits or commercial benefits from the regenerative harvesting point of view.
Andrea: So, which means that they pick up the plants, they approach trees or bush or, you know, Botanicals on the way, um, that the plant in the next generation will provide better crops. So they know exactly which leaves can be taken, which part of the plant cannot be taken this time. And they move flawlessly through the forest and you don't even know that any harvest is coming.
Andrea: You know, that it's, [00:28:00] it's fantastic. They have very, uh, spiritual approach. They have certain karakias or prayers to, um, to allow the forest spirits to approach the harvesting and, you know, and to, to support the bioactives that's there. You know, holistic knowledge. Science might be skeptical about that, but at, you know, there are certain proofs in science that those techniques are working.
Andrea: So, for example, they know exactly. which part of botanical wood possess more actives because they, they see the insects are biting that part of the tree heavily and are living completely alone the other part of the tree. And they were, you know, they were doing some research and they found out that in fact, the trees, the leaves with the holes that are not so pretty.[00:29:00]
Andrea: Possessing far, uh, far more by actives as the other part. That's beautiful and green and lush. And so, so this is, you know, that that's very comprehensive knowledge and we need we that we respect deeply plus the sustainability. And at the end of the day, um, We, they also are creating, um, sometimes they have like a small skincare brands behind, you know, they are making their own little products and we help them educating them into the cosmetic chemistry into good.
Andrea: practices so they deeply understand the quality of materials we need in our manufacturing to produce premium extracts and premium, you know, actives
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. No, that's fantastic. I know we could, we could carry on, um, about the details of these partnerships for, for quite some time. I'm worried that we're running out of [00:30:00] time, but I do want to touch on, on one other thing before we finish. Can you briefly talk a little bit about, um, your work. I want to say like the collaboration and education work you do with your distribution partners.
Deanna: Um, uh, you know, it's, it's an important decision to decide, you know, do you want to have in house sales team initially as an ingredient company? Do you want to partner with distributors? But I know you personally, um, travel and sit down with your distributors, um, but also sit down with your distributors customers.
Deanna: Um, can you briefly share a bit about, about that experience and how, how valuable it's been for your company?
Andrea: Yeah, definitely. So you know that we are from New Zealand. Um, New Zealand botanicals are not that well known around the world.
Deanna: Yeah.
Andrea: We have our own innovation behind our extraction technology. So it's also complex to understand. So, you know, when you Uh, and we cannot, we cannot be a successful [00:31:00] company if we would only sit in New Zealand and try to sell our products around the world.
Andrea: It's all about education. So we have a really strong, um, fantastic, uh, distribution network. Uh, and we are very friendly with our distribution partners. So we have personal relationships and we add, we put a lot, uh, of effort into educating them. And that's why that's That's mainly, uh, happening through my, um, uh, collaborative visits when we go together on sales calls.
Andrea: So we are, we are visiting, um, OEMs together, R and D teams, brand owners around the world. So I travel a lot. And as you know, I'm in Europe at the moment, just, uh, My European tours and it's incredibly, um, they are listening to me, uh, you know, both sides, our clients, as well as, um, our distributors. And they [00:32:00] are learning a lot because they know my, my approach is always different because different clients, they have different projects and different applications.
Andrea: So they, they, they, gain comprehensive knowledge about us as a company, but also about how you can use our ingredients in formulating on different ways.
Deanna: Yeah. Excellent. Excellent. I really appreciate that. This has been a fantastic interview, Andrea. I really appreciate your joining me today on the Cosmo Factory podcast. Thanks so much.
Andrea: Thanks to you too.
[00:33:00]