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Seth Baumgartner and Jason Van Leuven open the mics for your crop steering and cultivation questions.
Seth [00:00:04]:
All right.
Kaisha [00:00:04]:
What's up, gromies? Welcome to AROYA Office Hours, your source for free cannabis cultivation education. I'm your moderator, Kaisha. We are on episode 109. Shout out to our live viewers on YouTube and on Instagram, to everybody tapping in on Spotify, Apple Music, YouTube, or wherever you listen to your podcasts. Thank you so much for your support, and if you like the pod, please do drop us a review. We really appreciate your feedback. Southern Jason, how you guys doing?
Jason [00:00:31]:
Good.
Kaisha [00:00:31]:
Good. Yeah, good. Awesome. Ready for our first question?
Seth [00:00:36]:
Let's jump in.
Kaisha [00:00:37]:
Let's get into it. This one came from Van Styler. They posted. Can you discuss your crop steering nutrient strategy for the last three days or week before harvest? And Rockwool. Thank you.
Jason [00:00:51]:
Yeah, let's dive into it. Yeah, sure. So, for rockwool. Yeah, I definitely. I don't do things too much different than I do in coco for that last week or so at that stage that we call ripening. Um, a lot of times, as you know, we're looking at a week to two weeks for. For ripening. And, uh, you know what, one of the things that's really important is thinking about our nitrogen content that's available to the plants during that time.
Jason [00:01:15]:
Uh, we want to make sure that we're trying to reduce how much nitrogen is available in the plant, start to allowing it to use up its carbohydrates and. And give it a little bit cleaner burnt. That comes from, you know, the old ideology of running ro towards the end is trying try and reduce the amount of carbohydrates and sugars that are in. In that plant in its raw form. So, obviously, you know, we don't like to run just straight ro, especially in Rockwool, because it's got such a low cation exchange capacity that its EC is going to change dramatically with any fluctuations that we apply to the input. Uh, so if, you know, if you are reducing how much nitrogen you are taking out, um, taking out the, um, nitrogen from your two part salts mix, then, and you're replacing it with something. If you're replacing it with something, I like to be between, uh, three quarters and full strength. Right.
Jason [00:02:10]:
So if. If I'm using a product like. I hate putting name brands out here, but, like, fade is probably one of the most prominent examples of, uh, of one of those substitutes. Um, if you're not. I do like to reduce my. My nutrient load to about a half of my. My typical feed. And, you know, my.
Jason [00:02:29]:
My ideology is that I like to make small adjustments. You know, it does induce a little bit extra complexity. But if I can drop that every day for. So if we are doing like a seven day, let's, you know, start dropping it, uh, you know, a point every day or maybe two points, and, and then I, then we know that our substrate will be kind of at a reduced EC level by the time that we are ready to cut.
Seth [00:02:54]:
Yeah, I mean, I think that's the important thing to focus on here. We have a hydroponic system. We have control over exactly what elements we're putting into the pot. And because of that, that really affects whether you're going to go with the aforementioned strategy Jason talked about with reducing your nitrogen using some sort of finishing product, or if our, you know, feed system or nutrient recipe doesn't allow us to do that, just reducing that general overall feed. But the idea is we're not supplying, you know, mainly nitrate to the plant, which has its own driving factors and plant morphology and ripening. So the other thing to consider is the actual strains are growing. You know, the original question, you know, the last three days or last week, just as Jason said, typically we try to push for at least a two week ripening period. And part of that ripening period is not only going back to a generative strategy, but also, uh, you know, lowering that feed, see generally, or moving to that finishing mix.
Seth [00:03:50]:
And different strains are going to require different amounts of time to ripen. You know, if we've got something that typically, traditionally we wanted to grow for ten or eleven weeks and we're trying to finish it in nine, that's when we'll go and look at, okay, maybe we aren't going to run as much bulking to get a similarly finished product as we normally would in ten or eleven weeks. And some strains, you might not ever get quite the exact same product as you could, but putting a little bit more ripening pressure on the plants can actually help some ripening expression rather than, um, you know, we. A big thing that comes up on this podcast a lot is the Hugos. And part of the reason that we don't typically push people towards the six by six by six is because it's really hard to go to that ripening irrigation strategy. And that's another part of this whole thing, too. If you can't, if you don't have the water retention or water availability latent flower to go for a 22 to 23 hours dryback, you know, nutrition is part of it, but so is that long dry back period to push a ripening response. So on a lot of, uh, situations like that, in the six by six we'll see that.
Seth [00:04:52]:
Hey we can lower the EC, we can change the nutrient mix, do whatever we want, but we can't also go with the correct irrigation strategy to push it. And you'll see a variety of expressions. Some strains are fine with three days to a week worth of ripening depending on who you are and what your finished product needs are. I other strains just won't perform under those conditions.
Jason [00:05:15]:
Yeah. And you know I know this question was directed specifically at nutrients but just because you did bring up the six by six, you know right. Right now I'm working with the client to transit transition into a larger substrate. He's got to finish up the runs that he's on in these six by sixes. And so really the kind of the two options, maybe we'll get the whiteboards out earlier. You know, two options are we can either increase our irrigation window to something like 3 hours, maybe 4 hours if we have to, or we can stick with, you know, that 1 hour p one and then get back up to a little bit higher water content with an irrigation maybe 2 hours before lights off. Right. And so if we're looking at what do these water content curves look like? Well let's do so.
Jason [00:06:05]:
Ideal situation.
Seth [00:06:12]:
One too many line I guess there.
Jason [00:06:15]:
Is the eraser on top. I could just use the racer. Alright so let's do this is light period photo period on here and we're gonna be rolling in. So you know that's kind of the typical water content curve we would look for ripening with, with just that, that quicker p one. You know one to 2 hours from first irrigation to last irrigation. Well if we're in a six by six you got that one, I'll get the next one. You got two options.
Seth [00:06:55]:
This is typically what initial response is to keeping water content up in that six by six. We're bringing it up in the morning, trying to hit field capacity as quick as possible. And then you know if you're a dedicated operator, you're looking at that graph all day or watching your plants going out there and picking them up and realizing that hey, we're losing water content really fast. So most of the inclination is to hey, let's bring it back up to field capacity repeatedly throughout the day so we're not accidentally over drying some of the plants in the room. And while there is merit to that, once you're in that situation with overdried blocks or plants that are too big for your blocks, ideally what jason shown here is the, you know, that's the recovery strategy for having plants that are a little bit oversized for your media, whether it is a, you know, a six by six by six Rockwell block, a one gallon coco, whatever you're in when your plant to pot ratio is way off, you do have some recovery options. Um, that's a little more meticulous. And this is where when we're working with clients, we say, hey, when, you know, judging your plant performance and ripening, what are some small things we can do? Okay, every time we go into ripening, we've got this late afternoon irrigation. That's, you know, it's a remediation.
Seth [00:08:05]:
We're trying to prevent the plant from overdrying, and we're only applying really as much as we need to correct, not necessarily bringing it back up to field capacity. We're trying to go closest to lights off 2 hours, because every time we put on an irrigation, we get about 2 hours of active respiration response out of the plant. So we don't want to time that late shot to make the lights off humidity worse. That's another factor here. We're also trying not to introduce too much moisture to the room late in the day. And usually what we say is like, hey, if we're seeing this every time, every strain, we either need to start targeting a little bit smaller plant size for that pod and start adjusting your density so we get the same amount of biomass, or what can you do without changing anything too crazy in your system, just go to a little bit bigger pot. If you're in a gallon, try a gallon and a half or a two gallon. And especially if what you're looking at is like, hey, we're just really struggling on getting some of these strains to ripen up or ripen consistently.
Seth [00:08:58]:
Like we take down the row and two thirds of them are ripe and a third of them really aren't.
Jason [00:09:02]:
Things like that, yeah, and you kind of nailed it on the head with some of the things I wanted to mention there. And I was going to do a little bit of math here, because when we have real time data, we can make some pretty cool dryback calculations to understand. How much of a percent shot am I supposed to apply at this point? So let's get some numbers on here. We're going to be, say, if these are six by six hugos, we might be at say 65 or 70% for field capacity, and then we might be making sure our low line here is at say 40 or 45. We'll push some extremes here. Just because it's a small substrate. Let's say I've got some big plants in here. So.
Jason [00:09:51]:
Yeah. What Seth's talking about here is clearly I didn't have to get back up to my field capacity at 70%. All I needed to do was make sure that by the next irrigation in the morning over here that I haven't gone below kind of my target dryback threshold. Right. And so when you're using time series data, we can apply last night's dryback, and maybe we only saw a 10% decrease in water content overnight. With lights off, photo period off, then that means we only have to do a 10% irrigation here, right. So we might be at something like 50%. It's really easy to know that we're going to very likely be pretty close to our target point by the time that we're ready to irrigate the next morning.
Seth [00:10:42]:
Absolutely. And one thing I want to highlight, too, you know, this graph, if we look at the values on it represents maintaining that water holding integrity of your Rockwell, we're still hitting 65% to 70% and drying back. Usually when we see a pattern a lot more like this, the values are between more like 40, 45% and 15% to 25%. I put 42 and 22 on here. But typically, that's part of the problem with Rockwool, as we run into a lot of people who actually aren't necessarily running too small of a media. They've encountered a few overdrying events, and now they have hydrophobic pockets in their rockwool, and there's no real easy, practical way to restore that integrity. And if you do, that's an extra cost incurred. Right.
Seth [00:11:22]:
So that's why we always preach like, never, you know, never let your rockwool go, ideally below a room average of about 40%. If you do see blocks going below 35, you know that you're probably going to lose some field capacity right away that next day, and you need to start planning for your alternative irrigation strategies. On when do we now have to add some corrective shots and things like that? In the afternoon.
Kaisha [00:11:48]:
Wow. Jason, were you adding something else?
Jason [00:11:51]:
Oh, I was just going to mention that, you know, the exact amount of water holding capacity we have in those, uh, in those six by sixes, and then just really kind of talk about. All right, well, you know, it's, it's not a significant amount compared to how much that plant's drinking at that stage. And so, you know, if we do lose that top end capacity, we, you know, if we went from, say, a 70% field capacity to, uh, field capacity at 50%, you know, we've lost 20% of the available water. And that's just compounding the issue. Um, and then you have to run into a solution, like Seth showed here. Yeah.
Seth [00:12:29]:
And that's one thing important to remember. You know, we, we talk a lot about pot size, plant to pot ratio and stuff, but really, that pot size ultimately just determines how much water it can hold for the plant. And that's really determined by your media. That's why you can take some of the more modern, uh, charcoal flora, flex a bunch of them now run in the 55% to 65% range where historically we used to use coco that was a little more chunky down in that 35 to 40 range in a bigger pot. Uh, part of that was because we couldn't precisely irrigate as easily and avoid overwatering the plants with a more dense media. You know, something that's going to give us that 55% to 65% vw. See field capacity. We have, effectively more water availability, conceptually, a bigger pot for the plant than the same size physical pot with a more porous or looser media, because that media just can't hold as much water, so we'll have to replace it more often.
Kaisha [00:13:23]:
You guys, rocks. There is so much good information in that. Thank you for that overview. And Van Stoller, thank you so much for your question. So, since we're on this topic, we actually got a question from Slabs official looking for some crop steering advice. In coco, they actually wrote, can you crop steer effectively in a coco four by eight bed and get proper drybacks? I'm interested in running a mycorrhizae inoculated bed. I looked up the word mycorrhizae, and that means fungi that have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of many plants. So what do you guys think?
Seth [00:13:54]:
Let's. Let's talk about the fungus first. A lot of people actually use products like mycos from extreme gardening that are mycorrhizal inoculants. They tend to be quite helpful, especially in more organic situations. They can be helpful in the salt situations. But one important thing to remember when we're growing with salts is it's not the same kind of symbiotic relationship that most of these microbes would have with native soils. So we're not feeding them nearly as many organics. And a lot of times we'll have to replace those inoculants, sometimes throughout the grow cycle.
Seth [00:14:25]:
Another thing to consider is, you know, no matter if you're in a bed, the ground or a one gallon pot. We're always steering the plant morphology one way or another based on our inputs. And, you know, as we've shown with these small pots, you know, repeated pulsing tends to produce more vegetative growth, whereas, you know, longer drybacks are generally more, well, they're more generative. They produce florals, flower and floral production, and generally keep the plant shorter. Now, where the beds come in, you know, most situations, a lot of people are able to water their beds once every morning, and that's it, every day for the whole growth cycle. Now, that's a pretty generative growth cycle, and we'll probably give you, especially running organics, and if you have good nutrition in there, pretty good results. Um, we have had, uh, customers of ours that have success actually burying some of these sensors in their beds and starting to be able to time their irrigations a little more regularly and, uh, really target their dry back and get it under control. So it's really even day to day to start out with.
Seth [00:15:29]:
And then adjusting the volume of those beds. And then since you didn't mention, you know, mycorrhizae, there's probably some other inoculants you might be looking at. An important thing to remember when creating, like a living soil bed is we also can't push quite as extreme a dry back. And that's where having the sensors is nice, because we have, you know, a bigger bulk of soil, potentially more water available for our plants than in a one gallon pot. However, in that one gallon coco pot, using just salts, we can push that dryback down pretty low. You know, it's not ideal to go down to 15% to 20%, but you certainly can without killing the plant. Whereas in an organic situation or something, we're trying to build a living soil, if I go down below the low twenties, I'm killing the soil, not necessarily my plant. So I'll have that over dry back.
Seth [00:16:14]:
I won't see a plant health issue until potentially several days later, when that biology is not working for my plant anymore.
Jason [00:16:22]:
Yeah, so I just wanted to run some calculations to also kind of get an idea of what kind of dryback should we be expecting. So, four by four by eight would be feet. That gives us 128 cubic feet in that bed, which is around 1000 gallons of volume total. Varco there is holding 45% means we have 450 gallons available to the number of plants that are in that bed. Let's see if we went to a plant spacing at, say, let's use 0.5. That's probably a lot tighter than, well, actually, 0.5 is probably about right for this situation. You know, that's going to give you, what, 60 some plants? 64 plants per per bed. So 450 divided by 64 is going to be the.
Jason [00:17:12]:
Basically the amount of water you have per plant. So that's two gallons per plant.
Seth [00:17:20]:
So you're looking at the equivalent of running in. Yeah, let's see. We'll use technology here.
Jason [00:17:29]:
Seven gallons available per plant.
Seth [00:17:31]:
Seven gallons of water. So that also means you're looking at running each plant in, you know, twelve gallon plant. Twelve gallon, 14 gallon pot. So that's kind of the thing to consider here. How big of a plant are you going to grow if you want to steer it more for, you know, general production and increasing yields? You might look at it only. You might look at only filling your bed to 2ft deep and cut that effective pot size in half. Start there. And that's actually what we see people who are running these beds do that are pushing for maximum production as shrinking that volume down or upping the plant count until they find a nice balance of, hey, we're able to achieve enough of a desired dry back that we know we're getting good aeration in the soil.
Seth [00:18:13]:
We know we're promoting healthy plant growth, and we're also able to get that dry back. Excuse me, back quick enough to start applying some p two s and pushing that bulking behavior. But a lot of that comes down to the volume and the plant size. That's what being able to control these drybacks really is about.
Kaisha [00:18:33]:
Outstanding. Awesome. Thank you, guys. That was a great question. Cool to talk about that. All right, I'm moving on to some live questions. We've got some on Instagram. I'm going to start with this one because we're on kind of this topic.
Kaisha [00:18:45]:
So fly fishing dropped this one. They want to know, if volumetric water content is 60, what would field capacity be in a two gallon open top bag?
Seth [00:18:57]:
Usually the manufacturer is going to advertise what they find to be the average field capacity in their product. So if you got it from manufacturing as a two gallon and said it was 60%, it's going to hold 1.2 gallons water.
Kaisha [00:19:12]:
There's math. Amazing. Thank you for that.
Jason [00:19:15]:
Thanks. You did it in your head this time.
Seth [00:19:17]:
It was. That was tough.
Kaisha [00:19:20]:
All these beautiful minds. Excellent. All right, we're going to keep it moving. This is going to changing gears. This question came from Omar over on Instagram. They wrote, how should pro mix be watered? And what media can you fade the best with?
Jason [00:19:35]:
You know, promix, I would treat it pretty much exactly like I would irrigate with coco. Um, you know, most. Most pro mixes are just coco with some perlite and or a few other additives. Um, what was the second part of the question?
Seth [00:19:51]:
Uh, what. What would promote the best fade? So, yeah, when we're talking about peat moss and stuff like pro mix, usually we're looking at more of a medium water holding content. Because of that perlite mixed in usually around 40% to 45% vwc at fuel capacity. So something to be aware of. You might run a little bit bigger potential. Um, as far as any differences between irrigation, we're still looking at generative, vegetative, generative. And then really the main difference when running promix is probably just that last ripening phase and understanding that you do have a little bit more cation exchange capacity. So that promix is going to hold on to some plant nutrition.
Seth [00:20:28]:
And in that case, that's where we're looking at, you know, lowering the EC along with eliminating that nitrogen in preparation. But it's also important to remember that although you do have some CEC in there, uh, some of the, some of those ions are actually bound within that soil. So just because they're in there doesn't always mean they're actually plant accessible. You know, when we look at, like, a classic organic bed that someone really mixed up hot with a lot of manure, kelp, and all kinds of stuff early in the spring and let it cook, what happens is, if you have any amount of clay or anything in there that can actually hold on to some of those nutrients, if we go take a soil test at the end of the season, like, hey, it is loaded with nutrients. However, a lot of them might not be plant available until we get even more in there or a high enough water concentration to free them up.
Kaisha [00:21:16]:
All right, great. Thank you for that, Omar. Appreciate your question. Thank you. Keep us posted. All right, this question also came in from Instagram and came from Mister Mary Jane's farm. They wrote, what are symptoms of high or low osmotic pressure in the root zone?
Jason [00:21:35]:
Symptoms? I guess it depends how high or how. How low we get. Um, no, I think the one thing that I always have to kind of explain is, you know, typically the, um, the salt concentration, the salt and sugar concentration in the plant is higher than the red zone. So when we're increasing our ec, we're actually decreasing the differential. And that's why you'll typically hear me refer to it as osmotic differential rather than just osmotic pressure. Right. Because we're actually decreasing it when we raise the EC. So if, you know, if we go too high or too low from the very far extremes, we're going to cause some significant stress in that plant.
Jason [00:22:20]:
We're probably not going to see plasmosis, um, the cell rupture, but, uh, it's definitely not going to be a good thing.
Seth [00:22:29]:
Yeah, I mean, I think you really brought out a good point, Jason. Um, the plan actually does adapt really well to these high ac environments. And we're talking about that pressure. It's a very dynamic thing because the plant's always working to keep that actual pressure in the root zone as low as possible. However, if what we're talking about in a general term is like lower ec versus higher ec, you know, if we're talking very, very low ec in the media, typically we just see general deficiency in the plant. It's outgrowing, you know, the rate you're providing it, vitamins to grow at, and then we're talking about really high ec. Um, the real danger comes in having too quick of a shift for the plant to adapt to. And that's when we do see that cellular death on the root zone, particularly the root hairs at the ends of the root tips that are actually super fragile.
Seth [00:23:14]:
And those are what are responsible for most of the water uptake in the plant. And that's why we see, you know, um, if you've ever, especially if you had grown in a, you know, like promix versus switching to coco in promix, it's a lot easier to get away with like a two week straight ro flush because you do actually have some ions held onto it, and you're bringing that water capacity up where the plant has some access to it. Whereas when we go to straight coco or rockwool, um, if I run ro one day and do a heavy, what I like to call mechanical flush, basically replace all of my water content in there with straight water that is way too quick for the plant to react to. And we've actually, now we've got reverse osmotic pressure where the plants actually, like, got way too much sugar in it, and that sugar is trying to go out of the plant into the root zone nutrient solution. So, very important to kind of understand that the big problem with EC is generally too little and too big of a change too quickly. And then the other thing that we will see people often, you know, other than the quick EC change, report symptoms, you know, the classic locking out or marginal leaf edge necrosis, just the edges of your leaves are dying and stuff like that, you know, after staring at those for about hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of times, generally we see you either have, even though the EC says it's really high almost every time it occurs after reducing runoff to stack that EC up. And now our ratio of cations to anions is off, and we're actually seeing more of a ph problem than an actual EC problem. And although that problem is rooted in the composition of that EC, um, the fact of the matter is, it has more to do with not replacing ions than it does actually stacking the EC up.
Kaisha [00:24:59]:
Awesome. Thank you, guys. And actually, Seth, this is a perfect segue into a question we actually have in the bank. This one came from grassroots marijuana. They wanted to know what about tip burn, late flower? I see it with almost every rock will grow. I imagine it's just part of driving the plants to the edge. No leaf twisting or anything here. Super dank buds.
Kaisha [00:25:20]:
So, yeah, that kind of sounds like what you were just describing.
Seth [00:25:24]:
It can be, yeah, sometimes if earlier on, it's typically gonna be what I'm describing later on, especially in rockwool. Um, you know, a lot of times you'll actually see those burnt tips associated with super healthy roots. Up until, like, that last week. And what's happening is, during that last week, we're trying to go as generative as possible, and we actually are pushing that dry back farther and farther and farther back. And the most sensitive parts of the plants to things like shifting EC and shifting ph and low water content or water availability are the very leaf tips. Those are the farthest away from the root tips, which intake the water they take the most energy to get water to. And it also happens to be the most delicate part of the plant that's the easiest to kill, you know, for.
Jason [00:26:11]:
Me, uh, you know, if I do want to have just a little bit of, um, you know, deficiency necrosis or chlorosis, that's what I want. Leaf tips at the end of the cycle, because it's probably not going to end up affecting our finished product. So it's one of those things where it's like, may not look great, uh, makes it harder to studio that room, you know, get our final shots off, just perfect to advertise the brand and stuff. But, you know, at the end of the day, it's like, how much energy do we, do we want to put into solving that issue?
Seth [00:26:42]:
Oh, yeah. And another thing I like to point out, for the longest time at scale, cannabis cultivation was never at the scale that it's at now. And looking back historically, the people who were taking pictures of their plants were growing at a pretty small scale. So they've got that going. Better control, easier to control those things. Also, when I go back and look at, let's say, high times over the last 40 years, go back 30 years and look at some articles and stuff, a lot of these plants, they take the pictures of five days or so before harvest. You go do that last leaf strip, get rid of anything that looks ugly, dim the room, have your lights just so to get that perfect sparkly picture. And, you know, a picture of one cola is a lot easier to capture than going into a grow room.
Seth [00:27:27]:
And, you know, I, I've talked to some of those people back in the day that move a whole plant into a dark room to take a picture. That's, it's going to be hard to achieve that level of perfection across a huge square footage of plants. And I think, you know, one of the big things to look at is just like Jason said, is that making it into the end product, we do see that tip burn fairly frequently. Um, but not all the time. And a lot of times, too, something to look at is what, you know, what is that dry bag doing at the end? Are you reducing CO2 at all? Um, what are your lights doing? You know, we like to, I typically like to run full light till the end, but if I'm starting to see some plant health issues where like, hey, I can't maintain enough water, I'm having ec issues, then I'm going to turn down the lights a little bit, take a little bit of stress off of those plants in the last week, understanding that I might leave some yield on the table, but if the plants are showing me that, hey, they're under undue amounts of stress. So that's one lever that's really easy to pull is reduce that energy input, especially at the end of the life cycle when hopefully your plants are already starting to senesce. We're seeing a bit, a little bit of that leaf fade. And like Jason said, you know, you can see some of that, you know, leaf edge necrosis.
Seth [00:28:35]:
And it'd be perfectly healthy if we just kept running the plant and didn't chop it down, then it's going to happen next week or the week after, even if we keep it healthy.
Jason [00:28:43]:
Yeah. And, you know, part, part of the strategy of the, the ripening crop steering segment is to basically, let's shorten up the end of this life cycle a little bit so that we can get more crops out per year. Right. Um, and that means you know, we might be pushing it a little bit harder if we want to ripen in two weeks and get done at week eight instead of week nine. Um, it might mean that, uh, a little bit of, uh, necrosis on the leaf tips is what it's going to take to get there.
Seth [00:29:13]:
Yeah. And, you know, at that point, that's where you start to lean into your cannabinoid. Cannabinoid testing and really look at the quality of your trichomes, say, hey, are we getting what we want out of these tests? And if so, we achieve the goal. If not, are we beating our plants up and we're not seeing anything close at week eight as what we saw week nine in terms of terp expression. Okay, maybe it's time to change up the strategy little bit.
Kaisha [00:29:36]:
All those little different decisions. Our friend, Mister Mary Janes Farm, who had asked the original question about symptoms of high or low osmetic pressure, they sent a follow up. They wrote, so I'm currently showing symptoms similar to leaves taco ing, but more wavy, curved, curious if that was an indicator not high necrosis.
Jason [00:29:55]:
You know, as we were mentioning, that you have to be pretty extreme, uh, on both sides of your EC levels in order to, to actually have a serious osmotic stressor. Um, you know, we're talking 15 plus Ec in the root zone, or, you know, 0.2 or 0.5 maybe, um, on the low end for, for significant ones. Otherwise, let's say you're at one ec or 1.5. It's more likely related to nutrient compensation and availability.
Kaisha [00:30:28]:
Wonderful. That was a good discussion. Thank you all for the wonderful questions related to this topic. All right, so switching gears again, our gromy rocket bud farms dropped this question on Instagram. They wrote, my clones were transplanted and put on 1212 schedule instead of 18 six for ten days by mistake. Bud sites started showing up already. Then I switched on 18 six for ten days and then switch back to flower. Signs of re veg started showing up like weird leaves.
Kaisha [00:31:01]:
And overall not great health. What can I expect? Thank you, guys. It's a full 16 light room monocrop.
Seth [00:31:09]:
Throw them away and don't spend money growing it. I hate to say that, but once you start to go back into a revenge and back into flower on the same plant, we're looking at like, revenging for months before we can get that cycle anywhere back close. What you'll probably see is what start looking like really large nugs and plants that just don't get as big and some weird single leaflet formation on those nugs, and then they're not really nugs. They're like a loose conglomeration, almost like cauliflower is a bad example. But when you see cauliflower fall apart after you cook it. So, yeah, that would be my advice, having been in that situation before. Um, we ended up throwing everything to extract, if that gives you any, any indication of, like, where that's probably headed.
Kaisha [00:31:58]:
Sorry. Rocket bud farms. Good luck out there.
Jason [00:32:02]:
Get a. Get a system that'll send you alerts and, uh. Yep. And just any suggestions for which system.
Kaisha [00:32:08]:
Might be the right one for them?
Jason [00:32:09]:
Have a heads up, Arroyo. Sounds like that light alerts we do.
Kaisha [00:32:14]:
Yeah. Check us out. Get a demo.
Seth [00:32:17]:
Well, and that's a great example why having some redundant sensing and alerts is really important. Personally, when that happened to the facility I was working at at the time, one person accidentally turned off the controller, never turned it back on. And no one else happened to go in the room at that time of day every day to see the lights not turn on. So we were blindsided to it, and it represented a really, really, really significant impact on our production cycle. You know, that was a lot of money that we had to pass up for a few months that just because we weren't able to produce consistent, solid bud and, you know, a little bit of insurance on something like that can obviously go a long way, because now you're faced with either putting most likely most of the crop to extract or trashing it and losing a couple weeks worth of your time and energy.
Kaisha [00:33:08]:
All right, thanks, y'all, for the advice on that one. Okay, we got this question here, here from Instagram, coming from our Grammy Santa buds, twelve. They wrote, is there anything we can do to optimize second metabolism, or at least what not to do to keep it Max?
Jason [00:33:28]:
Yeah. So, you know, secondary metabolites, pretty cool stuff. A lot of it is related to specific photoreceptors that we've talked about, you know, phytochromes, cryptochromes, um, and cartoons.
Seth [00:33:45]:
Yep.
Jason [00:33:45]:
I was a hard time saying that one. And so they're. They're active based on fairly specific wavelengths. And they. It's kind of actually the leading edge of when we're thinking about research in cannabis and. And actually in pretty much all crops, because, you know, with the fact that leds are so much more manipulatable with spectrum, it gives everybody the chance. And it's one of those things where, sure, a lot of stuff we talk about is been around in typical horticultures. It's been proven out, whereas working with specific spectrums, it's mostly kind of, you know, a more recent activity across all crops.
Jason [00:34:28]:
And so, yeah, one of the things, photomorphogenesis, one of my favorite words is talking about how do we actually enable those specific secondary metabolites at different times in the plant. So we're modulating the spectrum over the plant lifecycle. So we might be using a little bit more blues when we're in veg. We're in early veg to increase the speed of growth for our leaves, stalks and stems. Um, and then, you know, towards the end of the cycle, we. We might make sure that we're pushing a bunch of infrared so that we can get those phytochromes active, have higher terpene levels.
Seth [00:35:12]:
Yeah. And historically, you know, using HPS, one thing we're doing is. So you said, Jason, early on, especially in veg, we're looking for that brighter blue, you know, clear summer day, and then towards the end, something like that. HPS spectrum has been shown to give us good expression because that's really similar to the way the sun filters through the atmosphere later in the fall. Right. But we're just hitting the point with leds, and I shouldn't say just hitting. The technology's been around for a few years, but we're implementing, in a way, in horticulture to actually really maximize different parts of the spectrum in ways that are more specific at different times. Because now we just have more color options.
Seth [00:35:48]:
With all these leds. And compared to an HPS, we couldn't really change the spectrum at all growing throughout the growth cycle. So that's why on the same strain, we'd often see quite a different expression outside versus inside. Not just trichomes size and some of the basic outdoor indoor differences and nutrition factors, but like, also just a generally different expression sometimes in terp content and things like that. And now being able to tune that spectrum towards more infrared, more blues, anything in between, we can start tweaking some of these points. And we're just now getting to the point we really are, where people are starting to tweak very specific receptors for the secondary metabolism processes. So that's one thing that's really interesting. We're going to see where this goes.
Seth [00:36:31]:
It takes a lot of time to baseline how a strain grows under one condition and then test it, test it, test it under these different spectrums and try to see what was the final outcome. Because in my opinion, hopefully, we eventually take this to the place where, for ripening, we can target some of these secondary metabolism process that boost specific cannabinoid and terpene profiles that we want out of certain plants. And that kind of goes back to, you know, the. The chemo type hot, where those going around for a while. But really, that's part of the equation, right? That's. That's part of why, uh, with the think grow that I run, compared to my buddy's HPS growing the same strains, we'll see a little bit different expression, even running everything else the same. And it, you know, it still smells really similar. It looks pretty similar, but sometimes the color might be a little different on some screen.
Seth [00:37:18]:
Sometimes when I pull stuff out of my led, if I haven't turned on the far red, especially, I'll see a little bit less ripening in the trichomes. I won't have quite as cloudy a trichomes on the same day at pull down. So, um, I think that's very important, and that's going to be one of the next big leaps in cannabis production, is being able to fine tune some of that so we can. You know, in the last ten years, we've come so far in just really dialing in what is the standard way to produce cannabis. The same way we've seen in a bunch of other crops, right? Like, hey, here's the most efficient, economical way to do it at scale with an acceptable quality. The next step is, well, there's two. One's to make it more sustainable. The second is to use these production methods in combination with genetics and more technology, to produce more consistent, more potent, better bud than we ever have.
Jason [00:38:08]:
And this is one of the things for me, is really, really fun to go from hands on experience to diving into the science, you know, the chemistry and the physics and the biology that all go into play for the plant here, because, you know, so many of us had a lot of success running metal highlights in our bedrooms. Some of the best grows for metal highlight in the bedrooms and hps in the grow rooms. And we didn't. Couldn't tell you exactly why it worked so well, but it was, it was a great combination. It's because, you know, now that we know, we're looking at the spectrums. Yeah, metal highlights a little bit stronger on the lower end of the wavelengths. And so it was a great solution.
Seth [00:38:55]:
Yep. I mean, that's it. All this is constantly evolving, so everything we're talking about today won't be obsolete in ten years, but it'll be incredibly expanded upon as far as available literature and studies out there. Like, we're seeing the same thing with the under canopy, like, conversation that's going on right now. Right. I like there's arguments about who's got the best one, which one has the most increases, and then, you know, realistically, like, with what I've seen, um, it's kind of all over the place. There's a lot of factors in how much extra yield you're going to get out of those under canopy lights or what kind of impact they're going to have. And spectrum's part of it.
Kaisha [00:39:33]:
Yeah, digging into the science is really fun. Um, Jason mentioned photomorphogenesis earlier. We have a wonderful article about that in our education guides. You should check it out. It was actually inspired by a pretty Office Hours episodes. So amazing. All right, we're going to keep it moving. Mana seeds dropped this question.
Kaisha [00:39:51]:
They're looking for some advice. They wrote, growing in one gallon coco in week two, veg plants all look healthy. Feed EC is 2.1 and ph is 6.5 on Athena. But my runoff without, like, maybe they meant to say, will not go above 5.1 ph. How can that be?
Jason [00:40:15]:
Uh, so I guess the only thing that stands out there is you are running a little bit lower than this suggested Athena feed chart. Um, if you are on the pro line, at least, uh, for the two part salts, um, so maybe they're already so hungry that you're running into an imbalance. Uh, prococo 6.5 is already on the high side.
Seth [00:40:36]:
So, yeah, you know, when we're, we're talking about ph, generally you can sometimes adjust your input ph between 5.5 and 6.5 with some success. But realistically, it is that ionic balance. So this is actually pretty typical of when we talk about needing to feed at that 3.0 or above under modern lighting. You know, if you're above 900 to 1000 ppfd or even close to that 2.1 is probably a pretty inadequate feed. Um, there's a good chance that plants taking up pretty much all of that every day, especially if you have CO2 in your growing room. So, yeah, what's likely happening is, as Jason said, that plant's hungry. It's taking in all the good things you're putting in every day and then leaving the bits it doesn't want, which drags your ph down over time. And at a 2.1 input, even at that 6.5, you're not replacing enough of those cations or negative ions to actually shift the balance back towards that 5.6 or so that we'd really like to see.
Seth [00:41:32]:
So uh, you know, this would be another case where your first step is probably to follow the directions, mix it up at full strength. And you know, I, I think there's a common thing out there, and I know I was educated this way to an extent, which is always in classic horticulture and agriculture, the salesman's always trying to sell you too much. So use half. Well, in these type of systems, you know, we, we don't have cation exchange, we don't have any native soil nutrition. You know, while that might be largely true in the garden out back behind your house because you tilled it up and put some additional amendments in and you go, oh, miracle girl, I only need to put half that in. Or you do have some native nutrition. In this case, that's in indoor horticulture, especially with soilless mixes. That's just simply not the case.
Seth [00:42:20]:
If you're not giving it to the plant in that feed, it's not getting it. And if you're giving it too little, that ph shift down is a general indication of that. The only way to really confirm this would be if we could look at one of your, if you had a chart that was 24/7 EC monitoring, we could see that EC is actually riding, you know, below. Input goes up when you put new water in and actually comes back down before the next morning.
Jason [00:42:44]:
Yeah. And another thing that's kind of just a good practice is check with the ph is of your coco before you even start growing in it. If youre seeing that that coco is way off, it could be a screwy batch where they, you know, they just didnt do a good job buffering it with calcium or adjusting that native ph in the coco. So go take a fresh block and go hydrate. Or if your loose leaves, just, just hydrate it up. You can use the, your typical nutrient balance is what id go with. So you know, get it at 6.5 with the, the newts that you're running and see what comes out. Uh, and you know, that'll give you an idea.
Jason [00:43:26]:
All right, well maybe we, maybe we should have washed this coco longer or maybe we need to go with a different coco in the future. Uh, I've seen that come up way more times than I or the clients would like. As far as uh, coco consistency causing pretty significant ph issues.
Seth [00:43:46]:
I've experienced that with every brand I've used at scale. You know, when you're ordering thousands of pieces at once, there's going to be a failure rate. And also, you know, some of this, the way they make this coco is partially dependent on it having a certain amount of time between harvest, washing, additional washing, processing and final packaging. So if they speed up that process and that coco is not out being washed by rain for like a year, a lot of times we'll see it come in pretty high in EC actually. And that's one thing I've kind of started to do, oh, three or four years ago, is when I get a new batch in, I'll just take one, I'll actually hydrate it with some ro water, push some runoff, and then immediately test that with my EC meter. Because I've seen some of them run off as high as 1.5 to 2.0. And because I know that at least those specific manufacturers do not pre charge their coco in any way similar to like you get with sunshine mix or something like that. I know that that's most likely sodium because they're grown and stored in a pretty salty environment.
Seth [00:44:45]:
And I'm usually going to want to take about three to 500 ppm of cal mag or just in regular nutrient solution and run a pretty big mechanical flush till I see that watercolor looking good and that EC and ph in the range that I want to see. And yeah, don't ever forget you're paying, you know, a dollar a pot for this stuff. So there's only, only so much precision you can expect unless you want to spend more money.
Kaisha [00:45:10]:
Just like anything else, quality control at all steps, right. All right, mamma seeds, good luck out there. Thank you so much for your question. All right, moving on. We have some live questions are coming in. I love it. All right, Loki Turner dropped a question. They're looking for some guidance.
Kaisha [00:45:28]:
They wrote in a perpetual harvest with multiple genetics in a single room, what should our day and night temp and VPD targets be?
Jason [00:45:38]:
Oh, that's a great question. This is probably one of those things where I'm not sure there is a right answer. Obviously, specific genetics are going to have the target ranges that they need, those set points exactly where they operate best at the specific time in their growth cycle. Our typical operating, you know, our general recommendation is like a zero to five, the first third of the cycle, whatever the third ends up being for that strain, and the second 3rd running around a five degree differential, and then the last third being, uh, you know, five to ten, um, some strange run up to 15 degrees at the end for differential. Um. It's just going to depend how those plants behave. I just don't have a right answer. I guess if I knew nothing about them.
Jason [00:46:32]:
I would try to run, uh, you know, a five, six, maybe a seven degree night day differential and just, uh, you know, I guess it's also here is we, we have to, we have to mitigate the differences. Right? So if we are really trying to make sure we're getting purple product, then we might run the whole room at that ten degree differential. And we'll just have to sacrifice some of the speed of growth for the earlier pilots. Maybe we need to add an extra week onto this cycle in order to get, to get everything to purple out towards the end. Um, so that might be worth it. Whereas if uh, maybe we have strains that purple on their own without as much nighttime differential, maybe it's not a huge requirement in the market that we're at or we have really good access to green genetics. Uh, then, then I think I'd keep that diff a little bit lower. And Seth is going to show us something really cool that works well.
Seth [00:47:27]:
Uh, yeah. So if you just have a room with, uh, let's just say it's a 2000 square foot room, nothing fancy, general indoor grow setup. It's going to be tough, right? Because you, you do have to live within one set of ranges for all your plants. And typically, if I'm going to run something like that, 72 night time, 78 daytime, maybe down to 70 at night, but pretty happy medium. Not too hot, not too cold. 1.1 to 1.3 vpd the entire time. That's about the best you can do. Um, if you are stuck on running perpetual harvest.
Seth [00:47:59]:
The most success that I've personally ever seen with it is running a room that has linear airflow going across it. So that way we can control at what points we're injecting humidity, pulling it out, and what temperature the air is coming in at versus the gradient experiences across the room. So we can target, hey, we want as these plants to move through the room, we've got say a big dhu up here. Our airflow goes this way. It's going to be more humid at the back. We'll start the plants there, move them towards the drier side of the room, and then use de hues and ac to kind of mediate the temperature in those different phases. But a good thing to understand is that by the time you've built this system, that differential is not going to allow you to run 75 degrees in one part of the room and 65 degrees in another, especially at night. Yeah, it's still limited.
Jason [00:48:47]:
You know, if it is a greenhouse, which would be even another complexity on a perpetual system. Here, you know, this front where your wet wall is, the temperatures are going to change faster as well as they're going to change more. They're going to be a little bit cooler. Typically, anytime it's at least warm outside, the front is going to be cooler because we're running so much airflow. And actually, the speed at which the temperature changes also is a factor as far as how things ripen up. So, you know, typically, the faster that that temperature drops and raises, so drops at night and raises in the morning. The more generative type of push, the more reproductive, you know, the better expression of any pigments or specific colors.
Seth [00:49:33]:
Yeah, I think the important thing to recognize is that while perpetual harvest does offer a pretty cool kind of. Yeah. Business opportunity. Yeah, you're more like a factory. Your outcome is much more regular. And maybe, you know, given your space, it is a lot easier to step it out like that. Most of the time, when we see anything at scale implemented like, let's say 20 lights or bigger, it's almost better to start breaking that room up into rooms that you can control on separate cycles, even if you were going to be harvesting those specific benches or zones at the same time anyways. And you're perpetual just so you have that ability to really crank the extremes because, uh, you know, if.
Seth [00:50:12]:
And that's the other important thing to remember is you are never going to push far end on the yield or the quality with the perpetual harvest because you can't focus on any of those factors specifically. So you're, you're living in a world of mediums. And that's, Jason brought up the greenhouse. That's why also most of the perpetual harvest setups we actually see out there are in greenhouses because they already have a compromise. And, uh, their most efficient operation is actually keeping it in these median ranges and not trying to push it out towards the extremes. And part of that is because, hey, if I've got plants in the same room and I'm trying to push 63 degrees overnight while my young plants in the first few weeks just aren't going to grow very big overall, I'm going to leave a lot of yield on the table just because I'm trying to chase that purple. And if I sit down and look at my premium on price per pound, on quality, and then I say, hey, not only am I sacrificing quality, but I'm sacrificing some yield because I can't optimize, optimize these different growth phases, sometimes walls and ducting start to make a lot of financial sense.
Jason [00:51:13]:
Yeah. The irony here is in our typical grow rooms, we're always trying to combat micro environments. It's like, all right, how uniform can we get humidity, how uniform. Create lighting, how uniform get temperature in here. And then when we start to do perpetual, it's actually a bigger challenge because now we want to carefully manage microclimates rather than eradicate them.
Seth [00:51:38]:
Yeah, that's, that's the best way to put it, really. Your, your best shot is playing with the microclimates you have and trying to manipulate those to help you out.
Kaisha [00:51:47]:
Great overview for, great question. Thank you guys. And to our homie lucky Turner. Good luck out there. Keep us posted. All right, we got this question on YouTube from indie bud. They write, hey guys, how to prevent bleaching. Week four, I can already see bleaching spots, forming, runoff.
Kaisha [00:52:07]:
EC six PPFD 750 led ppm 1000. Temp around 78. Sorry, temp around 78 to 80. But this one strain always starts to bleach on the top. What do you guys think?
Jason [00:52:23]:
I mean, that strains going to do it at 750?
Seth [00:52:28]:
Yeah. Another thing I've seen out there is what, what leds are you running? Because depending on what you've looked into, there are some kind of different spectrums that have been introduced. You know, like any technology, there's a, I don't say a million, but thousands of different versions that different companies have put out over the last ten to 15 years. And one thing we've seen, just like, you know, we're talking about having a higher blue ratio early on. If you're running a light that has a really high deep red ratio early on in those first few weeks, certain strains will start to bleach and, and pose some strange morphology features. I'm not saying that's for sure it, but if it's only the one strain and it does it every time, that's definitely a quirk for that strain. And I'd probably try to go grow it under HPS and then be sad that I can't grow it under led very well.
Jason [00:53:19]:
Yeah, you know, I'm really glad that the details were included there because occasionally we can actually up our EC a little bit and help reduce how much bleaching we see or even get rid of it completely. However, at a runoff of with ECF six, that's probably not going to be the solution in this case.
Seth [00:53:37]:
Yeah, at 750, that's not an incredibly high light load. You know, if we were talking about 1000 plus PPFD, then that EC might be on the edge of what's adequate. But in this case, I think it has a lot more to do if it's a quirk for that strain, probably spectrum related. And that, to me, that's what I would be most curious to do. Give a cut to a friend with an HPS room and see what happens. Or even different brand of leds.
Kaisha [00:54:05]:
Good way to experiment. All right, good luck out there, indie bud.
Jason [00:54:09]:
There is one more thing on this that, yeah, um, it can depend on your reflectors as well. So depending on the diffusers and the reflectors on the leds, every once in a while and actually even the spacing, you end up with a couple of hotspots. And so checking light uniformity while it. If it's good, then, you know, then you don't have anything that you can do there. But I've been in a few rooms where they experienced light bleaching in specific spots, and it was actually just their. Their lights were set up too close. The spacing wasn't quite right. And by actually, all they did was.
Jason [00:54:46]:
Was change the angle on their reflectors, and it made a big difference for them.
Seth [00:54:54]:
This area where they overlap a lot, I don't know if you can see that at all, but sometimes that'll happen, especially when you've built out a room and done it over a few years. We started with an initial design, maybe changed some lights, maybe had to add a dehu. I've definitely seen that before, where people are shoving air handlers and dehumidification units up on the ceiling. And then we decided we don't want to lose one light's worth of production in the room. So now we've got a different light that's stuck up underneath that d hue or just a slight change in that spacing pattern that ends up producing a hot spot. That might be one little area. It might be half of one whole row. To.
Jason [00:55:34]:
To Jason's point, that almost looked like a football play.
Seth [00:55:38]:
I gotta be careful with that. Yeah. I might draw things. I don't mean to.
Kaisha [00:55:44]:
Crystal Frankfurt. We're not live with the electronic whiteboard yet. We got to practice with that one. Awesome, great overview. Thank you guys for those awesome tips. Great checklist. All right, we got this question on YouTube from Bud on the leaves. They wrote in my room with four zones, I have one cultivar getting more runoff than the rest, and the runoff ph is climbing.
Kaisha [00:56:05]:
Does this indicate overwatering? The plants still look healthy for now. What do you guys think?
Seth [00:56:12]:
Yeah, I would say likely that plant. Those plants just aren't drinking nearly as much as the other ones, so slow it back a little bit. If your ph is climbing, that might be due to your input ph, things that fall out or general overwatering the plants not actually feeding that much. So it really doesn't need nearly as much fertilizer put in. And then after that, you know, how bad is that ph? Is it staying really high? Is there a reason we're not seeing that plant feeding? Are we seeing any results from that? But I would first start pulling back that runoff and start paying attention to what your runoff readings are and see if that EC is markedly higher. Lower. And what's the ph at? And you're off compared to your other plants in the room.
Jason [00:56:54]:
Yeah. You know, one of the interesting things that, you know, sometimes when you're on Instagram, yet you see these pictures, it's very common for six by six hugos where the roots are, like, starting to run down the table. That, that would also indicate you're, you've got too much runoff.
Seth [00:57:09]:
Yeah, yeah, that's a good point. They're not air pruning. Um, but, yeah, usually, you know, if we're seeing one plant get more runoff than a different strain in the, in the same room, uh, you know, plants are dynamic. There's, if you went and chopped those plants and hung them both wet upside down on a, on a scale, what are the chances that, you know, any of us would think they'd be within a few grams of each other? So there is a dynamic tolerance we have to have for these plants. And different strains do. I mean, especially once you start doing a lot of crop registration, you'll see the vast differences in how heavy some of these strains feed, how much some of them uptake water for a given plant size. We've definitely seen some strains that, hey, you can put two plants that are both 5ft tall right next to each other. The leaves look similar.
Seth [00:57:50]:
One of them is really not efficient with water use. It just chugs through water all day. And this other one has a more efficient stomata setup on the leaves. And it, hey, it's a lot more water efficient. And if that was something we were paying more attention to and we were selecting these plants, those might be traits we're trying to chase all over for consistency, but right now, those are secondary traits that just tend to come along with, uh, the desired strain you want to grow, not something you can easily go shopping for and try to match up. So that's why that crop registration is so important and why using something like arroyo, to make it really effortless is highly, highly valuable. If you're going to be growing the same strains long term or in a production facility, simply trying to match up, hey, strains, can we grow in the same room? A lot of times having more and more data just really helps. You say like, yeah, I know these are both ogs and they share a common parent, but wow, this one really does drink way differently than this one.
Seth [00:58:45]:
And it's actually, even though they look really similar, uh, we feed them, uh, the same way. As far as EC goes, we actually can ever have these shares own. We'll end up over watering one or underwatering the other.
Kaisha [00:58:59]:
Awesome. Thank you guys for that. All right, we got time for. I have one more I want to squeeze in here this last minute. This one came from rich. Over on Instagram they wrote, hey, Arroyo, I'm starting an outdoor grow in a hot and dry climate with no steering capabilities other than irrigation. I was wondering if the concept of higher lighting the higher Ec still applies.
Jason [00:59:21]:
To a certain degree. Uh, you know, since you are controlling irrigation, I'm guessing that you've got a drip system, hopefully into some coco, uh, like five gallon, ten gallon, um, cocos. Obviously, if you are in the ground and a little bit harder to deal with that, you see, um, you know, outdoor sun, we're looking at 2000 ppfd for, for direct sunlight. And so, uh, up, up to that level, increasing, you see, not, not going to stay, um, perpendicular or, uh, direct relationship. Right. It only holds true up to a certain, uh, certain ppfd.
Seth [01:00:01]:
Well, it's important to look at too, some of those differences when those plants are growing in that much higher input environment, you know, their entire life. Uh, that's why we see like plants that are sometimes difficult to get to purple up indoors. Their leaves are almost black, like when they're barely putting buds on. Sometimes outdoors, even though it's not cold yet. And that's just because they're getting blasted with 2000 ppfd in the middle of the day and none at night. So they're building up that anthocyanin just to protect themselves from getting burnt, essentially. So there are a different set of responses that plants take advantage of in an outdoor setting. That being said, if you are in coco, you know, the classic thing is just like anything else, start about that 3.0.
Seth [01:00:41]:
You can crank it up a little bit from there. But typically we don't see them needing, you know, usually more in that four to seven baseline at the wettest point of EC is more than adequate. And outdoor sun grown plants.
Kaisha [01:00:54]:
Awesome. You guys rock. All right, y'all, before we sign off, a couple announcements to all of our Sacktown Grammys. You're gonna. You can catch members of team Arroyo tonight at the Connect Light Wars, Sacramento. We're gonna drop the RSVP link in the chat. You got an RSVP, but it's a free event. I believe it starts at five.
Kaisha [01:01:12]:
Come through, say hi. And then also the MJ awards accepting nominations until August 18. And if you love array Office Hours, we would certainly appreciate a nomination for content creator of the year. We're going to drop that in the link in the chat as well. Submit your nomination. But with that, Seth, Jason, producer, Chris, thank you guys so much for another great session. Thank you to everybody who's joined us for this week's Arroyo Office Hours. If you'd like to learn more about Arroyo, book a demo at Arroyo IO and our team show you the ins and outs of the ultimate cannabis cultivation platform.
Kaisha [01:01:44]:
If you have any crop steering or cultivation questions you want us to cover. If we did not get to your question today, fear not. Drop them anytime in the Arroyo app. Email us at salesroya IO. Send us a DM via Instagram, Facebook, or LinkedIn. We definitely want to hear from you. If you're a fan of the pod, please leave us a review on Spotify, apple music, YouTube, or wherever you listen to your podcasts. We appreciate your feedback.
Kaisha [01:02:05]:
And be sure to subscribe to our YouTube so you you never miss an episode. Thanks, y'all, and we'll see you at episode 110. Bye.