Tappa's Green Room Podcast

This episode is brought to you by Official Beer Co.
Produced by Podfire.

In Episode 35 of Tappa’s Green Room, Tappa sits down with Burleigh Heads standout and World Tour campaigner Liam O’Brien for an honest, wide-ranging chat about the realities of professional surfing. From growing up surfing raw Victorian coastlines to becoming a Burleigh Boardriders mainstay, Liam reflects on how his early years shaped his style, mindset, and respect for the lineup. The conversation dives deep into the ups and downs of the Challenger Series, his breakthrough moments on tour, the brutal ankle injury at Pipe, and the long road back to confidence and form. It’s a raw look at resilience, humility, and what it really takes to stay in the game at the highest level.

What is Tappa's Green Room Podcast?

Your backstage pass to the world of surfing, hosted by MC and commentator Terry “Tappa” Teece. From pro surfers and legends of the sport to shapers, innovators and anyone with an epic story and a love for the ocean—The Green Room dives deep. Expect tales of epic wins, brutal wipeouts, and behind-the-scenes moments from life in and out of the water. Whether you’re chasing waves or just some inspiration, this podcast will leave you stoked to paddle out.

00;00;07;19 - 00;00;29;09
Tappa
Welcome to the Green Room. Your backstage pass to the world of surfing. I'm your host, surf emcee and commentator, Terry Tapper diving into epic winds, crashing fouls and wild stories with surfing's biggest names, as well as the legends working behind the scenes to keep that state alive. A big shout out to our sponsor for this episode. The official break out with their new Jersey lager.

00;00;29;11 - 00;00;49;25
Tappa
So wax up, paddle out and join us in the green room with a surf chat. Never guys flat. Can I say welcome to the green room? Well, I've known today's guests for. I reckon, about 17 years. When he first turned up at burly as a skinny nine year old grommet. But I only know a little bit quiet, mild mannered, and a good young man.

00;00;49;25 - 00;01;09;07
Tappa
And he's surfing. Really? Shout out. I remember, like, when I was commentating me in some junior camps, particularly at bar one day, the guy that kid does, man turns. And that was when he was about ten. But I'm currently he's eighth on the challenger series, looking to be back on the WCT in 2026. The black sands up and downs and as many athletes do.

00;01;09;07 - 00;01;28;03
Tappa
But he keeps pushing through and every he's got the style that every surfer aspires to speed, power flow, innovation. We've got a bit of everything besides that. He loves the big stuff. Respected in a high atop like the big, burly broad roared his favorite son. He puts up the tents. He does the barbecue. He even judges lamb. Hi, Brian.

00;01;28;03 - 00;01;29;02
Tappa
Welcome. Hi.

00;01;29;05 - 00;01;32;22
Liam
Thanks for. Thanks for having me, Tab. Thanks for the kind words.

00;01;32;24 - 00;01;47;18
Tappa
As always, they might, Yeah. God, that they. I just remember it's a little bit like, actually the funnest memory. I remember you as a little black man. You and your dad went and surfed Lennox, and it was that little rocky, and. And you were zipping. You around and around about a thousand times. I think you're about 12 or something.

00;01;47;18 - 00;01;56;09
Tappa
And I got my last wife, and I was like, Elvis trying to get off the rock with the shaky legs, trying to get out after a wave and, you know, just skipping everywhere, just going, yeah, well, the kid guy.

00;01;56;11 - 00;01;59;06
Liam
Yeah. But, yeah, I remember that dose. That was fun. Yeah.

00;01;59;06 - 00;02;02;07
Tappa
It was wasn't that good, but it was just like a little Lennox Rocky.

00;02;02;10 - 00;02;07;25
Liam
Yeah. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I was just riding up the rocks running around.

00;02;07;27 - 00;02;19;12
Tappa
I am I yeah. Well, you, you know, young man and I pine back then or anything now, I, a what you came you started up. Well, you didn't start in Victoria. I read that right. You're a Brit at the start. Well, yeah.

00;02;19;14 - 00;02;39;16
Liam
I did. Yeah. Yeah, I guess my childhood was a little all over the place. Yeah, a little bit nomadic, but, my family's all from Victoria in, sort of far west Victoria, in a town called Portland. But dad had moved up here by the time I was born and was working in Brisbane. So I was born in Brisbane.

00;02;39;23 - 00;02;48;25
Liam
And then, we moved to the Gold Coast maybe six months later. So from when I was about six months until five, we lived on the Goldie.

00;02;48;25 - 00;02;50;18
Tappa
Did you start surfing here or what?

00;02;50;18 - 00;03;00;15
Liam
I just started surfing on the Gold Coast, probably around pretty young, 3 or 4 that had me on the boat. Not properly surfing, but, you know. Yeah, in the water.

00;03;00;16 - 00;03;13;25
Tappa
Loving it. Yeah, yeah, I think I was about 4 or 5. Dad made me a little to him and his mate Chris Pantano made this little board or I think I could either stand up, but I just remember being in the whitewash and jumping on it and staying. Yeah. Yeah. Moved and stuff.

00;03;13;27 - 00;03;14;22
Liam
Yeah, exactly.

00;03;14;27 - 00;03;25;14
Tappa
But my dad Adam, Robert I still climbs. Yeah. Right. Right, right. Yeah. He's a he's a Victorian. But my how was it in Portland Mike. Because that's pretty Cherokee wise there in Portland.

00;03;25;22 - 00;03;49;14
Liam
Yeah. There's there's a lot of different waves. It's just it's sort of brought out in the middle of nowhere at the very bottom of us. So it's really cold. It's pretty raw. It's a lot different to around here. So I was when when we moved there. Yeah I was like 5 or 6 or something like that. And we actually lived in Melbourne for a year and then moved to Portland for a couple of years, then Melbourne for a year and then back.

00;03;49;16 - 00;04;00;14
Liam
But, yeah, it was it was pretty cool. I was just, I was lucky that I was so fanatical about surfing already, because I think if I hadn't gotten into it by that point, I probably would have been not as into it. Oh, because.

00;04;00;14 - 00;04;00;25
Tappa
It's I.

00;04;00;25 - 00;04;16;07
Liam
Called. Yeah. It's called. You got to trek down to the beach, you know, there's, you know, just pull up and walk out onto the sand and paddle straight out and then come in and there's a shower for you on the beach. Like there's your handy. It's much more of a, kind of a like a hardcore surf experience.

00;04;16;07 - 00;04;31;29
Liam
You know, you get a pull up, you can kind of there'll be somewhere you can check the waves, and then you got to track down the beach and bring all your crap down the beach with you. I get Chinese jumping and it's freezing cold. There's no one around. And it's. Yeah, it's just it's just more difficult to go.

00;04;31;29 - 00;04;36;25
Liam
So if you can't just go and sort of jump in for the quick half hour and, and get out and run to work or.

00;04;36;27 - 00;04;41;29
Tappa
School or work, you have to be pretty hardcore to because of things I called when you'd have to really want it. Like, you know.

00;04;41;29 - 00;04;56;28
Liam
Yeah. Yeah, definitely. And there's days this days like here where it's not very good and it's just that extra, it's that extra motivation to not get in when you know it's cold as well. You like. Yeah. So I was lucky that I was really into it and that my dad's he's a fanatical surfer as well.

00;04;56;29 - 00;04;58;01
Tappa
So I was a good surfer.

00;04;58;05 - 00;05;25;16
Liam
Yeah. Yeah. So he would, we'd go surfing a whole bunch down there and Yeah. Then Adam Roberts from down there as well as you mentioned, a bunch of guys down there that really kind of were pretty influential in my formative years, learning all about surfing in different waves and swells and, and even just like the hierarchy and the line up and having respect and waiting your turn, that was definitely like a big thing down there, because there isn't many surfers.

00;05;25;16 - 00;05;30;23
Liam
So you wait your turn and you know, you don't paddle across someone or you just, you know, you chill.

00;05;30;26 - 00;05;31;18
Tappa
Different to the guy.

00;05;31;18 - 00;05;38;01
Liam
Okay, exactly. So then when I moved back, it was a bit of a culture shock trying to surf snap of just getting eaten alive out there.

00;05;38;09 - 00;05;46;05
Tappa
Oh yeah, it might. Now you got a powerful direct stalled econo attribute to that, to your early surfing in Victoria where there's so much power.

00;05;46;08 - 00;05;51;22
Liam
Yeah, maybe a little bit. I dad had me riding this sort of pretty long board for a long time.

00;05;51;22 - 00;05;53;10
Tappa
A single thing or a thruster.

00;05;53;13 - 00;06;01;02
Liam
It was a thruster or I learned on one of his boards, but it was a it was like a cut down, minimal. I think it was five five, which doesn't sound very long.

00;06;01;02 - 00;06;02;04
Tappa
But it does when you're about two.

00;06;02;04 - 00;06;10;03
Liam
Foot tall. Yeah. When I was a little kid, you know, everyone else would be riding, like five, five. I, I think they ride even shorter boards now. The little girl.

00;06;10;06 - 00;06;10;17
Tappa
On this.

00;06;10;17 - 00;06;33;25
Liam
Long. Ridiculous. Yeah, I don't know, but I was on A55 until until I was probably like 10 or 11, which is, which was like it was quite a longboard for me at the time, and it was hard to turn. So it wasn't really responsive. And I couldn't go, you know, straight up and down. Yeah. So it kind of had that single fin effect where you gotta draw your lines out and you got to surf a bit slower, but you got to feel the wave in.

00;06;33;25 - 00;06;37;12
Liam
And I think that's probably got something to do with it. Yeah.

00;06;37;12 - 00;06;52;08
Tappa
When I was 14 I had a 510 single thing. One of Navey's first boards is shaped up here and I'm not. Now I think of it how little I was like, but you know what just makes you use your really, I think more than anything with that, you know, you had to learn how to use your rails rather than just flick it off the bottom.

00;06;52;15 - 00;07;13;19
Liam
I think so, yeah. And then, I mean, I don't know, I had, positives and negatives. I was, I was I'm pretty slow surfer as well. And that's probably because I was on those kind of that old kind of crusty board for so long. But yeah, I think you definitely need to learn to like to use the board more than to just manhandle the board when it's a little bit big for you.

00;07;13;21 - 00;07;32;20
Liam
Yeah. And it's the same concept with a single fin too. Like, they don't they don't just turn on a dime, like, yeah, you know, your current high performance thrusters do. So you really got to learn to work with the board and then use the right parts of the wave to turn, as opposed to just manhandling it and surfing wherever you want.

00;07;32;23 - 00;07;43;23
Tappa
Where are you guys from? C surf a big a board for a while. Learn how to use your rails. But, my, you almost weren't in boogie board, right? As you're in in snapper. Wasn't that your grandma or something? Lived at snap a rainbow? Yeah.

00;07;43;24 - 00;07;59;10
Liam
Yeah, yeah. When we first moved up, my dad, he had no idea about the border on his culture on the Gold Coast from Victoria, on a tiny town where there wasn't even a border at his club when he was growing up. There is now the Portland border on is, They're out there in action.

00;07;59;17 - 00;08;01;15
Tappa
I'll be chasing you down right.

00;08;01;17 - 00;08;19;14
Liam
But, now, back then, there wasn't such a thing. So when he moved up, he didn't really have an understanding of how it all worked. We actually moved when we moved, he got a job as the accountant for Dreamworld. Oh, right. Yeah, yeah. Oh, no. Sorry. Before that, he worked at the council. Up, up near the home of the arts.

00;08;19;14 - 00;08;36;08
Liam
Now, that's kind of a the office as well. Yeah. And so his, his theory was, oh, here the wants to live close to the beach or close to work and, close to the beach was already getting a bit hard. Yeah, price wise, but, he decided that had a scene close to work to his work, which was up in Manoa there.

00;08;36;10 - 00;08;54;27
Liam
So I've always actually lived in Benalla the whole time I've been from the, oh, been on the Gold Coast. But yeah, as I said, he didn't know much about that border. I was set up up here, and, my nan lived in, actually, in the Twin Towns, and we'd go down on weekends to visit and stuff.

00;08;54;27 - 00;09;01;18
Liam
So he's like, oh, well, you might as well. He knew about snapper. So you guys, you might have joined snapper. And yeah, that was kind of short lived. But yeah. Did a few clubs.

00;09;01;18 - 00;09;06;21
Tappa
Brownstein Phillips Jai Jai you missed out right. Let him guy.

00;09;06;24 - 00;09;30;04
Liam
But now that was cool to kind of kick it off there and like yeah you say the see the level on the Gold Coast was like well these kids from down here are gnarly. Like everyone's ripping. And I was kind of just following my way through a couple of days. And then yeah, it didn't quite pan out. So, one day we were at, at the point having a surf and fortune would have it that Eddie Lindores was down there doing the junior sign on.

00;09;30;04 - 00;09;35;14
Liam
And I think at that time, maybe there weren't many juniors in the club at Burleigh. You can probably say to this.

00;09;35;17 - 00;09;48;29
Tappa
Well, yeah, well, actually Bush started a junior development program probably 5 or 10 years before Liam got there, and that was to raise money to put in the juniors. And so really looking for juniors at that stage.

00;09;49;01 - 00;10;05;19
Liam
Yeah, exactly. And that, yeah, they were just doing a junior sign and they just had a table set up at the shed there in the middle of the point. And a little sign out and yeah, dad got chatting to Ed and the day of the rest is history. Pretty much joined the club and never left. Felt like family since might.

00;10;05;26 - 00;10;24;23
Tappa
There was a group of you guys that were crazy though this year. Matty. Tibby. Hinata. How this 1234. Yeah, yeah. That. Yeah. You guys were like when? Not as like what, one stage five years or the four of us were in the top five in Queensland, the top five juniors. So like the girls now the girls are killing it.

00;10;24;26 - 00;10;29;04
Tappa
But that must have been a good little, little battle between all of you. All you'd like say?

00;10;29;06 - 00;10;44;10
Liam
Yeah, it was pretty cool. I think the first year I joined the weren't many chromes in the club at all. And I think I remember doing like, cadets. That was the lowest division you could do that was under sixteens. And I was like nine, so seven against like Jed and Barn and and.

00;10;44;12 - 00;10;49;08
Tappa
Spiel and getting beat.

00;10;49;10 - 00;11;12;17
Liam
And then I think they started doing the early started doing like Grom camps over at the Tally Rec center. Yeah. And then the, and the, the junior sort of population just exploded. So many. Every girl that surfed in the area wanted to join Burley, and it just went nuts. Went from like, no one in the club to about 200g in the club.

00;11;12;19 - 00;11;30;10
Liam
And yeah, some of those were, you know, Maddie job tubs and arts. And a frickin bunch of other really good surfers, like, so many guys. And it was really cool because this is it's like the community down the point of kids, you know, the same ages. Yeah. That we're always down there surf and and hanging out and running amok.

00;11;30;10 - 00;11;40;12
Liam
And it was just this is a sick time. You go surf all day and you just get dropped off at the beach with a backpack and then post up on the rocks, and you'd be there for the day. And that was like the the social hang out.

00;11;40;13 - 00;11;55;12
Tappa
It was on some of those old pictures of you, you and Maddie and all that. It looks so funny when you're like ten and 11 and it is these tiny little skinny ones. You're the only one that wears a burly shirt, by the way, if they get one, as far as you're the only one that had it. But, my.

00;11;55;15 - 00;11;59;05
Tappa
What are your favorite spots on the Gali?

00;11;59;07 - 00;12;18;25
Liam
There's there's a lot of good ones. Of course. Burly. I mean, that's obvious. Yeah. There's nothing like scoring good vibes at home. And the point's probably not the most consistent wave on the coast, but when it's on, it's it's unreal. And yeah, you get good barrels and. Yeah, I love it out there. And then I mean like known no one's going to deny Akira.

00;12;18;25 - 00;12;35;23
Liam
Like, that's one of the best wives in the world. And same thing. It's not on very often, but when it is, it's unreal and it's just a tube fest. And it's like a zoo, but it's it's. I don't know, you can't really deny it. It's it's frustrating, but it's really fun at the same time.

00;12;35;23 - 00;12;37;16
Tappa
And they're ready and have to be your favorite one.

00;12;37;16 - 00;12;55;08
Liam
Yeah. And then I spent I live as I've said, I've always lived up there. So, I spend a lot of time over there surfing that joint. It's nice and consistent. Obviously it's a bit gets a bit more wind affected in the southerly, but yeah, just enjoy trying to avoid the crowds, especially based on as much as I can.

00;12;55;08 - 00;13;07;09
Liam
So yeah, I'm often happy to try it in offshore for onshore if that means less crew and up there's often kind of got that on offer. So yeah, that's they're probably the three main spots I'd spend most of my time.

00;13;07;13 - 00;13;11;27
Tappa
You did pretty good at that comp when I had it in Covid. Didn't you know? Did you win? That was.

00;13;11;27 - 00;13;14;25
Liam
It. I got second. Second? Yeah. Mikey. Right. One

00;13;14;28 - 00;13;23;25
Tappa
That's right. Yeah, because I like to do that. We had the guy from boats with my son. We weren't allowed in this area anyway. That was, like, kind of bizarre, but was pretty janky that day, too.

00;13;23;28 - 00;13;36;27
Liam
Yeah, yeah, I think it was two days. It was odd because it was this time of year. I think it was in October. Yeah. And I remember, Kieran Pereira, he rang me up, was like, oh, what do you like, what do you reckon. What do you reckon, guys? We should run. I was looking at the forecast. Get on it.

00;13;36;27 - 00;13;46;23
Liam
Well, it's gonna be frickin terrible. Let, good luck and then. Yeah, that little swell just popped up. And normally the short period ones are pretty janky over there.

00;13;46;27 - 00;13;50;24
Tappa
It looks as long. Period. They still couldn't get that.

00;13;50;26 - 00;14;03;12
Liam
That contest. I know for some reason it was good. It was kind of handling and yeah, that some, some good guys went down a couple of chunky tubes and it's pretty cool. I think that'll be the first and last event over there, but kind of cool that it had that it happened.

00;14;03;14 - 00;14;23;20
Tappa
Yeah it well I had to because of the isolation thing that I could do that now might. How old were you when you thought I'm gonna have a crack at this price surfing thing? Because, you know, like you're always up there, you know, state titles, national titles, the, grom search and all that sort of stuff. But when did you sort of think, hey, I'm gonna have a crack?

00;14;23;22 - 00;14;41;25
Liam
I didn't really have one moment where I thought, yeah, I can do this. I did alright through my junior career, but it wasn't like that. Good. It's probably like a, you know, a notch off the, the top crew or the top pack. And, it was for me, it was always like, I really love surfing.

00;14;41;25 - 00;14;58;20
Liam
And I was always going to just do it as long as I could, regardless of whether I was good enough. But it felt like there was always a bit of a carrot being dangled in front of me, like I'd go through phases where I'd just suck and lose first aid all the time and get really bummed on it and kind of start thinking, maybe it's not for me.

00;14;58;20 - 00;15;17;17
Liam
You know, they might look into doing something else, but. And then I'd have a good result and like, oh, no, maybe I maybe I'm good enough to do it. And it kind of went that way for a long time. And even the first year, I was always going to try and do one year on the show. So I was like, that was my dream to go and have a crack and travel around.

00;15;17;17 - 00;15;20;25
Tappa
Not bad though, when you're 18 years of age to see the world gone. So.

00;15;20;25 - 00;15;36;19
Liam
Exactly. Yeah, exactly. So yeah, that I mean, regardless of how it went, that was I always wanted at least to one year and just try it out. Yeah. And as I said, I just I loved it too. I love getting to go surf, get to compete, getting to travel and hang with your mates. So it was the coolest thing ever.

00;15;36;19 - 00;15;56;01
Liam
So I, I had a pretty crappy year that first year. And it was. Yeah, it was a bit deflating, but I got to the end and it was same thing again where I went, I think I might be done. I'm, you know, I'm gone back to uni and then I won. I won a 1001 000, hell.

00;15;56;01 - 00;16;25;08
Liam
And maybe I can do it. So yeah, it went that way for a long time. But I think the first moment where I really thought, oh, maybe I can make something of this was at the, the US open in 2019. I ended up getting runner up to. Yeah. Ghidorah. Yeah. And had a bunch of bikes on the way and, and, managed to beat a few guys that I'd like, didn't write myself against and kind of went like, well, maybe if I can do it once, I can do it again.

00;16;25;08 - 00;16;33;28
Liam
And that was probably for me, the the real moment where I got a bit of confidence in myself and thought, you know what? I can actually can do this and should try and do this. And, well, it's pretty.

00;16;33;28 - 00;16;43;14
Tappa
Funny because these sort of wives are not the kind of wives you'd expect you to perform, you know, like it was like two foot gravel at a bit, kind of like the speed that.

00;16;43;16 - 00;16;44;01
Liam
Yeah.

00;16;44;02 - 00;16;45;22
Tappa
Yeah, that like that. Yeah.

00;16;45;28 - 00;16;57;29
Liam
You know. Yeah. I mean, for all the charm of the gold, because you do get a lot of gravel. And it's everyone overlooks that. It's funny, like a lot of crew I know that have moved up here in the last few years, or, like, they get to spring and go, what? What's going on up here?

00;16;58;05 - 00;17;00;02
Tappa
That's when you got a window or somewhere.

00;17;00;02 - 00;17;17;18
Liam
Like, yeah, this is pretty standard. Like spring up is pretty bad. So I definitely had surfed plenty of crappy rides in my time. But yeah, I don't know. I had a really good, epoxy board that, they made and it was kind of one of the first epoxies that he'd done, and it just was just a magic stick.

00;17;17;18 - 00;17;34;10
Liam
And I ended up clicking with that board and then the wave as well. And yeah, I know sometimes you just have you just get on your on and you know, you can't really sometimes it happens when you don't expect it. You just like, oh, this is probably not my location to go good. And you just get on around and things go your way.

00;17;34;10 - 00;17;36;02
Liam
And that's kind of how it went out of it.

00;17;36;04 - 00;17;51;14
Tappa
Yeah. I remember telling D.H. about this little kid in the early boardriders. He listen to me at least once. Anyway, now what about Rottnest? I waited Rottnest fall into that because you got you got third and your first ever WCT. That was in Calvert as well, wasn't it, that.

00;17;51;14 - 00;18;12;13
Liam
Yeah, that was the year after that, event. They did it straight. I think before at the start of Covid, they had one magics down at manly that did the, the Australian Open of surfing. Yeah. And then before it was shut down and I think I got a fifth in that or something, and that was a pretty good result for me at the time.

00;18;12;13 - 00;18;41;06
Liam
But it also put me at the top of the ratings out of the Australians. So I got fifth. So sitting whatever it was equal, fifth in the Key West writings. But the Aussie over the other Aussie, I think I was at the at the top or second or something. And then they had that CT leg come through Australia and that's how it kind of worked, is they chose the next highest on the shores to get a wildcard, and I think someone else got someone else got, the one that did it nearly.

00;18;41;10 - 00;18;55;27
Liam
And then I did one in Narrabeen, if I'm not mistaken. Yeah. And then Rottnest was the third one, so maybe I was third in line to get a wildcard. And then yeah, I got the I got the call up. I was actually out on the, I out on the drink.

00;18;56;00 - 00;18;56;29
Tappa
That says, yeah, I got.

00;18;56;29 - 00;19;02;21
Liam
To tell you a story. I got a call from Renata while I was out, and, how much did it.

00;19;02;22 - 00;19;04;25
Tappa
How much time did you have to get? Get there?

00;19;04;27 - 00;19;19;12
Liam
Was it a bit of time? It was a few, like a couple of weeks out, but I. If I had thought I had nothing on, you know, it was like when the bars sort of stuff, it's like, oh yeah, he's like, oh, you're in a car. And I'm like, what? So yeah, I got over there and got over there, but I'd never been there before.

00;19;19;12 - 00;19;39;11
Liam
It was pretty unreal. Pretty cool to learn about the history of the place. Crazy history. Yeah. You know, with the, the genocide of the, the local Aboriginal people over there and stuff is pretty full on. But, it was a cool event. Yeah. They they did a good job and it was. Yeah. As I said, someone no one had been.

00;19;39;14 - 00;19;42;04
Liam
And, Yeah, it worked out or something.

00;19;42;05 - 00;19;46;24
Tappa
Yeah. And you like the little slab wives too? That, that why you said that was a nice little life.

00;19;46;27 - 00;20;05;18
Liam
It's a cool way. Yeah, it's sorta like a, like a steeper but less perfect version of lowers, maybe. Oh, yeah. Put it like there's. I kind of wish it might be reversed. Like the right was sort of short and Bali and the left was a bit longer, but it would kind of section a bit. Yeah. And it was a fun little wave.

00;20;05;18 - 00;20;19;23
Liam
It was tricky. The I was surfing like an absolute kook in the lead up to the comp, but he was there because he was with, traveling with Morgan Sibley and Matt McGillivray that were on tour at the time. So I just jumped in with them and yeah, well done. Some work before the event and I'm just gone.

00;20;19;26 - 00;20;30;03
Liam
I'm so screwed in this cult. Like watching everyone else going, oh, I'm so screwed and and then, yeah, first hate. I think I got like a three and a one and just got smoked and it was, oh, that was.

00;20;30;04 - 00;20;31;09
Tappa
Really the losers ran.

00;20;31;12 - 00;20;51;26
Liam
Before they got rid of that. So I'd always I'd rate myself off. I'd wanted to home. I was so embarrassed and just went, oh, this is such a joke. And what's he's had to tell me back from the edge of the cliff and guy going, man, you got another? Hey, I just pull it together and then, yeah, like, I don't know what happened, but the next day clicked and, and I made that one and, and just sort of got on, got on a little roll and to.

00;20;51;27 - 00;20;53;19
Tappa
Bloody morgues, mate, you know.

00;20;53;22 - 00;20;56;16
Liam
Like a lot of them all.

00;20;56;18 - 00;21;10;24
Tappa
But, Yeah, you just mentioned bottle you and bottle like. Well because of course bots obviously bored. Right. Are you similar in stature and sort of the way you saw in that. So he probably knows a lot about you surfing as in because he's a big man too.

00;21;10;26 - 00;21;19;13
Liam
Yeah. Yeah. Of. Yeah. No bottle for a long time. He's the hero of the of the burly town. First guy to qualify from burly.

00;21;19;13 - 00;21;21;14
Tappa
So got a tenant at our.

00;21;21;17 - 00;21;40;04
Liam
Yeah, yeah. So I've looked I've always looked up to him. I mean, he was sort of on tour when I first joined the club, and it was awesome to see him at the point, you know, when you're a little kid. Got all his freaking as bottled, you know, and he's just ripping and but the, the biggest thing I like about bottle is he's just such a crazy dude and a humble person, and he's got time for everyone.

00;21;40;04 - 00;21;56;17
Liam
And he, he has since, you know, since I was a little kid and all of us home, he'd always give us time. And, it's just how we go and give us a couple of was at the point, which is pretty cool. And then, yeah, eventually, once he'd wrapped it up and he started to coach, it sort of just naturally happened that I started coaching with him.

00;21;56;17 - 00;22;16;19
Liam
And, and we sort of developed that relationship as well. And. Yeah, but so much from him, over the years and, I've had a lot of good, good times with him and, and some tough times as well on the road. But, now it's been so cool to have someone like that that's not just a coach, but also like a friend and a mentor to kind of have in your corner.

00;22;16;22 - 00;22;31;12
Tappa
Yeah. It's, Oh, you got a good relationship obviously, with bottle. How is it on to him when you like? Because it's kind of a little sort of. You only got your sort of small ish group have any of crew that you sort of you don't all hang together or is it a bit more like everyone hangs together a bit more?

00;22;31;14 - 00;22;50;09
Liam
I'd say the The Challenges series in this case are a little different in that respect. But the challenge is series because, you know, getting paid much, you kind of just scraping by. Everyone sort of jumps in together in with accommodation and stuff to, to cut costs and you know, you know, bring in your own coach. So you're relying on each other a lot more and it's pretty cool.

00;22;50;09 - 00;22;53;22
Liam
It's a cool dynamic, especially with the Aussie crew. Everyone hangs out, everyone.

00;22;53;25 - 00;22;54;14
Tappa
Loves to watch.

00;22;54;14 - 00;22;54;25
Liam
Each other.

00;22;54;25 - 00;22;56;01
Tappa
And also having a ball.

00;22;56;01 - 00;23;18;01
Liam
I yeah, it's good. And I mean we're always like, we'll rent out a house or whatever and and just load it up to the absolute brim. I just couch space whatever. Yeah, just get as many crew in there as you can, make it cheap. And, everyone just hangs out, which is really cool. And then I guess on the set, because it's, there's a bit more, you know, you got, you got a bit more money to work with.

00;23;18;01 - 00;23;31;19
Liam
So you're going to bring a coach, you want to do it a bit more professionally. So it kind of becomes a little bit more sterile, which, actually I like the challenge. I kind of thing I like to try and get everyone together and to hang out, but that's just sort of the nature about how it works out.

00;23;31;22 - 00;23;41;28
Liam
But, yeah, on tour, it's definitely a much more like a tight knit pack that you would travel with. And it's a smaller tour too, so it's, there's less people. Everyone's kind of a bit more.

00;23;41;28 - 00;23;45;19
Tappa
So what is in the challenge? You're about 100 or something or 80 something.

00;23;45;19 - 00;23;48;13
Liam
Yeah, somewhat. I think it's 92 or something at the moment.

00;23;48;13 - 00;23;48;29
Tappa
You say with.

00;23;48;29 - 00;23;49;15
Liam
It's quite I mean.

00;23;49;15 - 00;23;50;16
Tappa
You taste 32.

00;23;50;16 - 00;23;59;04
Liam
Exactly. Yeah. And then you've got the top guys that just travel exclusively with their people, you know, like a John John. He'll just have like a coach, you'll.

00;23;59;04 - 00;24;00;05
Tappa
Have film, a.

00;24;00;10 - 00;24;17;15
Liam
Film, you have like he had Chris Prosser with him last year when he, when he won the title. And he just keeps it super tight, doesn't really let anyone else into the circle. And and that's kind of how he runs it. And then and then you have some guys that like to travel in a bit more of a group, like you got, Richard Doug Marsh's crew here.

00;24;17;22 - 00;24;38;22
Liam
They all travel together, which is pretty cool. And yeah, everyone does it kind of differently, but yeah, I find the challenge is sort of more of, just everyone jumps in together and helps each other out. And the two is a bit more. All right, a bit more. No, I don't know what the perfect word for it would be, but it's it's a bit more selfish, but you're trying to, like, you know, you competing against the best of the best.

00;24;38;22 - 00;24;42;16
Liam
You trying to do everything as well as you can because you've got the means to do so.

00;24;42;22 - 00;25;03;07
Tappa
So speaking of that, might the level of surfing when you go from like a challenger or like you did from the sharks into the seat, what's what's it sort of like when you why now your first year you really you didn't get to do it. But what's it like when you when you actually go into that environment from a cost or challenger to the seat?

00;25;03;14 - 00;25;06;08
Tappa
What's the surfing and competition level like?

00;25;06;10 - 00;25;24;22
Liam
Yeah, it's it's pretty daunting. And the main reason is because you're going up against guys that you've always just watched and admired, you know, like going into heats with Jordy Smith or Medina or, you know, when I first got on, Julian was still doing it knowing and you know, they're guys that you've looked up to and watched your whole life as a girl.

00;25;24;25 - 00;25;39;16
Liam
And then all of a sudden you're in the heat next to them and they're like, they're not taking it easy on you. They're like, try. I don't know what the hell this is. This is really odd. Yeah. So it's kind of weird at first. You got to get over that. You can't be starstruck. You got to.

00;25;39;18 - 00;25;52;24
Liam
You got to, I think there's a Bob Hurley had a quote. I don't know where it where it where it got it from, where I heard it, but I'm pretty sure it was him that he said, you've got to have a healthy disrespect for the status quo. And I think it's so true. You gotta you can't be.

00;25;52;27 - 00;26;08;02
Liam
You got to be respectful at times. But when it comes time for the hate, you can't be sitting there going, oh that's oh, that's Jordy. I'm going to let him have you know that, you know. So I don't want to I don't want to ruffle feathers. You haven't got to come in and go oh do you want me I got to I'm going to take it to you.

00;26;08;02 - 00;26;08;20
Liam
You know, I mean.

00;26;08;22 - 00;26;11;12
Tappa
You did a bit with Mark Richie. Did you get a bit of that mongrel?

00;26;11;14 - 00;26;25;05
Liam
Yeah, I'm pretty bad at it, to be honest. Like, my nature is just to relax and stand off, but, yeah, like, if you're in a heat with one of those guys and they take it to you, you can't just back down and go, oh, well, it's, you know, yeah, you have the wife and you go, yeah, yeah, yeah.

00;26;25;08 - 00;26;26;13
Tappa
I don't worry about my career.

00;26;26;13 - 00;26;49;09
Liam
You've got yours. Yeah. You kind of got to have that little bit of stuff. Yeah. Like I'm going to, I'm going to, you know, I want it to be. And it's not just I'm not just going to like lay down and let you have it. So that's kind of the toughest thing I think when you first qualify and that and then just having confidence in yourself and trust in your own ability, it's easy to just get caught watching everyone else and going, whoa, look, he's done that.

00;26;49;12 - 00;27;04;20
Tappa
And they're pretty fast, too. I noticed the difference is just when I'm three seven before I commentate at home, I notice the difference in the actual speed of the surfing from cues to see. To me, it's a lot. Is another ten miles an hour or something on it, I don't know.

00;27;04;25 - 00;27;09;13
Liam
Yeah, yeah, it's know those top end guys that just go so fast.

00;27;09;13 - 00;27;10;07
Tappa
Are you one of them?

00;27;10;07 - 00;27;27;19
Liam
I know you fly it, dude. I don't know about that, but, no, it's pretty. It's pretty cool to watch. But yeah, you got to just kind of, like, almost forget about all that stuff and just go, like, doesn't even matter. Like, I just got to do my thing in the heat and surf, like, control everything I can and, yeah, do everything that's in my power.

00;27;27;19 - 00;27;33;16
Liam
And then just forget about all that extra noise. Because it's just, it just messes with you. If you kind of buy into it too.

00;27;33;16 - 00;27;49;27
Tappa
Much or make you first. Yeah, you go on on like, yeah, on the pipe Masters. Billy boy. Right. Has had the like went absolutely crazy when you qualified. It was like not so any come back and it was it was really cool. But then you got to the pipe machine warming up and. Yeah. Broke ankle was it. Yeah.

00;27;49;27 - 00;27;55;16
Tappa
Yeah. What happened there. Yeah. Because I remember saying that Shane footage of it, it just looked like a ordinary barrel.

00;27;55;19 - 00;28;05;21
Liam
Yeah. So it's a shot. It's pretty annoying. But, pretty much to give context. Yeah. I got to Hawaii early. I had a mental says in the way.

00;28;05;22 - 00;28;06;06
Tappa
Oh, not.

00;28;06;07 - 00;28;25;03
Liam
Coke the whole time. And then. Yeah, morning of the event, I went out there to just just as you do, just a warm up feel what the ocean's doing on the day. Troy bored out and, I couldn't get a wave. It was so crowded, and it was pretty weird. It was solid. Like a building. Swell. But it was a little bit morning sick and a bit jumbled.

00;28;25;05 - 00;28;41;09
Liam
I remember. I just could not get a wave. I was getting snagged by all these guys that they weren't even the columns I could get out of it. Leave me alone. But, in the end, I just sort of got this, like, little kind of inside double up wave. And it wasn't. It was like a four foot wave.

00;28;41;09 - 00;28;58;28
Liam
And, I pulled in and because it was had that morning sickness on it, I think a backwash came through the barrel as I was in the church, and it pretty much like, made the wave breathe and then clamp really abruptly and when it breathed, as the backwash came through, it kind of lifted me up off my board.

00;28;58;29 - 00;29;17;09
Liam
I mean, like a big dog stance and lifted me up off my board, my back foot actually disconnected from the board, but I still kind of had the rail was like holding the rail. And then as it clamped, it pushed me back down onto my board like really quickly. It all happened quite fast, but my foot came back down onto the board like toes down.

00;29;17;16 - 00;29;18;23
Liam
That makes sense.

00;29;18;25 - 00;29;19;03
Tappa
Yeah.

00;29;19;03 - 00;29;22;21
Liam
And then just like, shoved me down on top of my and my toes now, like.

00;29;22;22 - 00;29;23;14
Tappa
So I thought it.

00;29;23;14 - 00;29;24;03
Liam
Was off muscle.

00;29;24;08 - 00;29;29;07
Tappa
Wow. I thought it was more like contact with the bottom, but it was just a board and getting just getting.

00;29;29;07 - 00;29;45;29
Liam
Yeah. In a weird position on the board with like a backwash clamping. Yeah. And yeah, pretty much just like twisted my ankle and like, my toes were like gnarly round touching my friggin calf muscle and wow. And yeah, I just felt it like click three times and my leg went numb. And, it wasn't that good. Yeah.

00;29;46;01 - 00;29;47;09
Tappa
She did it all right there.

00;29;47;11 - 00;29;55;03
Liam
Yeah, well, I popped up and because it, like, went numb, I was in the way I did it. I was worried, not like a dumb one of those compound fracture.

00;29;55;03 - 00;29;56;28
Tappa
Oh, yeah. Just hanging.

00;29;56;29 - 00;30;10;26
Liam
It was like when you foots around the wrong way. I'm kind of feeling like going, oh, not so good. Like I'm just overreacting it. Yeah, but then I got to the beach and just, like, tried to stand on it, just to see if it could take anyway. And it was just such a sharp pain. I just went, oh, yeah.

00;30;10;28 - 00;30;12;26
Liam
So yeah, I got carried off the.

00;30;12;26 - 00;30;16;28
Tappa
Beach and, and you were in hospital for a few days after that. Why don't you like the full update or.

00;30;16;28 - 00;30;31;17
Liam
Yeah, I was lucky, actually, that the, the doctor they had on site was an orthopedic surgeon and he was on the beach. As soon as I got carried out the beach, he like checked it out, went, oh, you've popped your, your tibia. Yeah. But he said, oh, I've got all I can get you in to do surgery tonight.

00;30;31;17 - 00;30;38;13
Liam
So I just went straight to the hospital and, got it done that night, which was really, really good and good.

00;30;38;13 - 00;30;39;03
Tappa
Good for a bed.

00;30;39;04 - 00;30;46;26
Liam
Good for a bad situation. And yeah, it was done then and there. So, pretty much. Yeah, I just got shipped straight off the beach, straight to hospital, straight.

00;30;46;26 - 00;30;59;25
Tappa
Into a free night. That's one thing I want to ask. Like it was your rookie year, but you didn't even get to surf hair. What was the reasoning that gave you that? That it had not. That was your rookie year?

00;30;59;28 - 00;31;03;29
Liam
Like I just said, it's just the first year you qualify, no matter what happens.

00;31;03;29 - 00;31;07;14
Tappa
That's all right. So even if you got injured before. Yeah I.

00;31;07;18 - 00;31;08;05
Liam
Know, yeah.

00;31;08;09 - 00;31;25;23
Tappa
I don't know I don't understand it because it's like, you know like how can you have a rookie year when you don't even surf one event, but anyway, but how was the recovery from that night? Because obviously you've gone back to basically walking on crutches and everything like that. How how quick was your recovery or how hard did you have to work?

00;31;25;26 - 00;31;48;17
Liam
Yeah, it was it wasn't like I mean, I wasn't getting told, oh, you're not going to surf again or this is like a career and or anything from it. And medical professionals I spoke to were like, no, you're going to be fine. It's just going to take a little while. So that was positive. But yeah, it was just really because I got surgery, it was I had a plate put in where it broke and then I tore my ass in osmosis as well.

00;31;48;21 - 00;32;10;28
Liam
It's I'm injury. And they put what they call a tight rope in which is just the cinders. Most of it kind of sits across your, the front of your ankle. And when you, when you flex your toes towards your, shin, your bones actually splay so that that joint can move. But the cinders most this ligament like, keeps the bones from like that kind of holds them, if that makes any sense.

00;32;10;28 - 00;32;11;20
Liam
Yeah, yeah.

00;32;11;22 - 00;32;13;18
Tappa
And,

00;32;13;20 - 00;32;32;16
Liam
Anyway, so they put a tight rope there and then there's all scar tissue and it makes it really stiff. So when I'm trying to flex my toes back towards my shin, which they call dorsiflexion, it's just like it was really stiff. That was the main thing I had to get back. And then my muscle, because I was in a cast for a while, had like no muscle back.

00;32;32;16 - 00;32;38;18
Liam
Yeah, I had to build the muscle back. But then the real main thing was that range of motion through my ankle.

00;32;38;21 - 00;32;43;20
Tappa
And you did the challenge of that year then. Yeah. Yeah, yeah. How long was it from the injury to back on the challenge?

00;32;43;24 - 00;33;04;06
Liam
Well I had four months and I think it was four months. And that. Yeah, it was just really stiff for a long time. I was fine to surf because it had, you know, all the hardware in there. It was solid, but I just wasn't surfing very good for a while. And, yeah, that was probably the hardest thing I was getting back was, you know, you got to do rehab or whatever, but it was I was full of hope.

00;33;04;06 - 00;33;14;26
Liam
And then once I'd kind of come back and was competing again, I was just surf and no good. And that's when the doubts came in. I was just like, well, like, yeah, is this it? Is this as good as I'm going to surf again? Because it's not that good.

00;33;14;26 - 00;33;17;27
Tappa
And just you didn't have that flexibility, I suppose that's.

00;33;17;27 - 00;33;24;10
Liam
Yeah. Just like it didn't have the same springiness. But over time it slowly came back. It's just kind of a natural.

00;33;24;10 - 00;33;26;10
Tappa
And then you qualified my back.

00;33;26;12 - 00;33;27;02
Liam
Yeah.

00;33;27;05 - 00;33;34;00
Tappa
So how did that feel actually getting that? You must have been over the moon. Well, I think these are the pipe masters one or something that. Oh, no, it wasn't like that.

00;33;34;02 - 00;33;34;19
Liam
Hardly ever.

00;33;34;19 - 00;33;36;24
Tappa
The hell yeah. Yeah, yeah. That's right. Aliya.

00;33;36;26 - 00;33;39;19
Liam
Oh, yeah. That's the best feeling. I mean, as I said, this is. Yeah.

00;33;39;21 - 00;33;42;04
Tappa
They lift you to right to the end almost.

00;33;42;06 - 00;33;57;29
Liam
Yeah. Oh that was the. Yeah. Yeah. Exactly. Yeah. Yeah. Because I, I lost the heat. I needed to win. Like, there was a heat that I had that I had to. If I won, I was guaranteed. If I lost, it was sort of. Yeah, yeah. In the hands of the other competitors. So I kind of had to sit around.

00;33;57;29 - 00;34;11;14
Liam
But at that point I kind of had such a, like up and down year that I was just stoked that I got back and was surfing good again and had a shot. And I was kind of in more of a place where I was just like, oh, if I'm on, I'm on. That's great. But if I'm not, like, I'm still, I'm stoked.

00;34;11;14 - 00;34;21;08
Liam
Like I'm back doing what I want to do and yeah, and yeah, fortunately it went my way and, and I ended up back on there. So it was a it worked out was pretty quick turnaround. So that's.

00;34;21;08 - 00;34;26;26
Tappa
Good. And you had a pretty a couple of good years in mind I think you got 7/8. Was it the following year.

00;34;26;29 - 00;34;34;09
Liam
Yeah. Yeah. The maybe the first year was my best one I think and got on the downhill slide from the mind.

00;34;34;09 - 00;34;49;10
Tappa
It must be hard. Like, you know, when you get knocked back to the challenger Challenger series to go, well, like, I, I've got a, you know, I pick me, pick me, head up and go and and go hard. And you seem to be going or right there. But it's, it's a, it's always a challenge I space for sure.

00;34;49;10 - 00;35;11;16
Liam
Yeah. It's been a, it's just been like another like experience where I've had to learn a lot. Like kind of like the injury was like until now or until, like, yeah, probably until this year, my whole career has kind of been on an upward trajectory even that was only slow. And there was a lot of, you know, like, oh, I'm just getting, you know, my game 500 on the shows to for 99.

00;35;11;17 - 00;35;13;04
Tappa
But yeah, I think that's.

00;35;13;04 - 00;35;32;16
Liam
Been like it's always been kind of trending up. Yeah. And then falling off too is the first time I've like been trending down. Yeah. And so that was kind of like it was a bit of a, a bit of a tricky one where you're like, well yeah I got a what's, what's going on here. Something's wrong. I got to, I know I got to try and fix, fix something.

00;35;32;16 - 00;35;52;29
Liam
It's going wrong. And I think I was, I was to, trying too hard almost and too impatient, like, oh, I'm going to just do this and that. Not. And then I'll be fine. I'll be good again. And then. And then. Yeah, it just wasn't quite working out. And I think the big thing this year that I've sort of learned has been just to, to do the work and, you know, do all the right things.

00;35;52;29 - 00;36;03;23
Liam
And, and as I was saying before, control what I can and, and do it well, but then not have so much of an expectation on a result because I've done the work, if that makes any sense.

00;36;03;23 - 00;36;04;25
Tappa
Just or I get that.

00;36;04;27 - 00;36;18;12
Liam
Doing it and then being patient like, okay, well I've done what I can, I'm going to compete, I'm going to do my thing. And if the result comes, that's great. But if it doesn't, I'm not going to get bitter about it and go, oh, this is bullshit. I did all this work and I still lost. Like, what a waste of time this is.

00;36;18;12 - 00;36;28;00
Liam
Just let the kind of let the results be what they are. Because I just do my head in like going, man, I've done all this work and I'm going backwards. Like, what's going on?

00;36;28;05 - 00;36;48;01
Tappa
But I'm not a side, mate. Your, hate scores and your wife scores have been increasing from the judging panel. I know that must get frustrating for some surfers. You know where, like, you know, go on. Like, even like, I remember Park, I talking about Schaefer down like a paddled so deep and I pulled into the thing else myself, and I was like, come out and got a full.

00;36;48;04 - 00;36;49;13
Liam
You know, like.

00;36;49;15 - 00;37;01;16
Tappa
Like it's like it must get frustrating. Just everyone, you know. Hi. I thought I've just done that and then you don't get to score, but I'm not as particularly burly. That will give you some good scores when you're in the in the city there this year.

00;37;01;19 - 00;37;04;11
Liam
Yeah. Slid a couple of blocks for that.

00;37;04;13 - 00;37;06;23
Tappa
Yeah. I'm no good on that Jack.

00;37;06;25 - 00;37;25;11
Liam
Yeah. No it's it's again it's just like one of those factors. It's not in your hands that you can, you can get. So you can do your head in worrying about scores and like, what was this score? This was about like, you almost got to just treat it like, like it's, a constant, you know, like, yeah, the score is just what the score is.

00;37;25;11 - 00;37;40;16
Liam
I've got no control over that. And I just have to react to, you know. Oh, I did, I did a floater and they like, you know, they gave me this much. And then I did a snapmare and they gave me this much. Oh. Instead of going, oh, whoa. That's bullshit. Like this naturally would just go, well, they like the floater.

00;37;40;18 - 00;37;49;21
Liam
I'll do it. I'll do the floater if that's what it is. I think that's kind of more. The approach that I've found you have to take is just don't. Yeah. Don't get too embroiled in that.

00;37;49;22 - 00;38;06;03
Tappa
The same with with the class. Class losses and and exactly. Yeah I always side of the grumps when they have a class. I said my it needs to be where there's no doubt you got to do it. So there's no doubt and there's no, no crying about scores or anything because you left no doubt in their head.

00;38;06;03 - 00;38;24;12
Liam
And that's just part of the sport, too. It's a subjective sport. And the judges, they cop a lot of flack, but all those guys, they're so passionate about what they do and they're so well versed in scoring. You know it's and it's not an easy job. Like as I said like they might you know, one guy might think this and then the next person might think this.

00;38;24;12 - 00;38;39;01
Liam
And then it's you never going to all agree on the same thing. So it's just one of those things where, yeah, sometimes you might feel like you got a bit gypped, or sometimes you might feel like you got a bit juiced, but you just kind of kind of take it all in your stride and not worry about it too much.

00;38;39;01 - 00;38;40;18
Liam
It's kind of irrelevant, really.

00;38;40;20 - 00;38;58;04
Tappa
Right. It's great to see you giving back to right Boardriders to like one particular thing. I remember, young Tommy Witt Pine. He broke his leg in about three places. He's famous. He's like, he's alive where he broke it, like actually broke the bottom and he broke the top seller crazy. I don't remember saying he text because he starts it always a bit down.

00;38;58;04 - 00;39;03;26
Tappa
I seen it actually went round and hung out with a young bike. Did you tell him bicycle about how you recovered? Was that how you saw.

00;39;04;02 - 00;39;27;02
Liam
Yeah pretty much I've. I just yeah. He's one was way worse than mine. He's done such a good job to come back but I don't know. Yeah. Same when you hit me up I was like oh well if I can land a bit of even if it's crap advice, just lend a bit of empathy, then, we'll. Because I've kind of been there and know what it's like to just be bedridden and feel like you're going backwards and that you.

00;39;27;05 - 00;39;32;17
Liam
That your toes. No. I mean nuts. That was just, you know, Tommy is such a good young.

00;39;32;17 - 00;39;49;18
Tappa
Fella, and it's good that you give an arts a bit of a hand when you're here to, like, coaching the kids. I love that, I like I know you're pretty humble, like and that, but if you understand, it's like when you were a kid, bottle was there. You know, it's a similar thing for those kids saying you're there because I see you in a in the comps and all that.

00;39;49;18 - 00;40;12;15
Liam
So, yeah, I don't know. You don't get much out of him that he still much. But yeah. No, they I don't know. I just like I'll just try and repay the favor if that makes any sense. Like, for what? I owe everything I got when I was a kid. And if I'm in a position where I can give back and and someone wants to listen to my craft, you know, I'll happily go and, you know, impart what any knowledge that I've got.

00;40;12;17 - 00;40;34;23
Liam
But, yeah, it's just, I feel like that's a cool thing about surfing, whether it's through a boardriders club or just a local community, there's always this sort of, this situation where the, you know, the elder statesmen a they're like educating the younger crew coming through. And then and then, you know, the baton gets passed on and then the young occur, then they become the kind of the, the elder statesmen and they educate the next generation.

00;40;34;23 - 00;40;48;26
Liam
And it goes on and on like that. And it's it's pretty cool. It creates just a really tight knit, feel like a lot of comradery in a surf community. And it's just, I think it's just a cool thing to try and keep going. And, it's a cool part of our sport.

00;40;48;29 - 00;41;03;19
Tappa
Well, that's I think, you know, like, now, even with the early bird artist Ed Wood and, the other guys like me, I sort of out of the picture. But you've got Chad and Jesse and High making all these guys that were the grommets are burly. Now. They've taken over running the club, so it's similar in that way, too.

00;41;03;19 - 00;41;18;08
Tappa
They're giving back as well. And hopefully see their grown in the, in the events too. Right now, like you're mad charge I'm at like what was that? The last one they asked for. Friction of perception. Was that noise.

00;41;18;13 - 00;41;19;02
Liam
Yeah.

00;41;19;04 - 00;41;37;06
Tappa
My that last movie like wandering. So pretty awesome to see that. Like my these guys are freaking mad. You and Haneda and whoever else went on that that adventure with you. Like, is it true that like, because you, you went South Australia in places like that, didn't you like all on the you took a like a shark attack kit with.

00;41;37;06 - 00;41;40;00
Tappa
Yes. Like a, like a rescue kit.

00;41;40;03 - 00;41;57;22
Liam
Yeah. I did a trip with an Ottawa once and he, he brought a toy car and he'd have it on the. I mean, it was smart because. Because if somebody lost. But yeah, it's just like, I don't want to have to think about that. And we'd be the only people out. And I was just like, yeah, the most spooky lineups.

00;41;57;22 - 00;42;03;28
Liam
And he'd have it right. I'm just going to put the tonic out here on the beach if you need it, just go. We don't need that.

00;42;03;28 - 00;42;07;14
Tappa
Tell you what, ananas. I think he's just as mad as you. Are you guys hot? And.

00;42;07;17 - 00;42;09;19
Liam
Oh, he goes hot out of the maze, a maniac.

00;42;09;21 - 00;42;22;21
Tappa
Well, I remember when you guys had Graham's. And, like, I think you and Nick Callister and how this all went haywire, and. And I've seen all this footage of Hinata getting. Why is it hype? And it's just like, how did that little punk get away with pot.

00;42;22;23 - 00;42;30;29
Liam
In the eyes, roll back in his head and he just. It's just so desperate for one. And just like, it's whatever one. Yeah. Whatever's available to him, he's going.

00;42;31;06 - 00;42;48;13
Tappa
But yeah, mate, that must mean adventure doing those films and and it's really great that like, you know, like after after you. Yeah. Billabong were gone. That vessel came on board like, this was kind of second home because, you know, tides is one of your best mates and it sort of seems to fit really well with the vessel brand.

00;42;48;17 - 00;43;14;01
Liam
Yeah. Yeah. I mean, I had a great run with Billabong. I mean, they looked after me for a long time and I'm very grateful for all those years. But yeah, unfortunately that that didn't work out a couple of years ago. And, I was lucky to be able to jump across to, to be slow. And like you said, you know, I've known John Mossop, who runs Whistler, Australia for ever since I was a little kid, and his son Toby is one of my best mates, so it was such a cool fit to be able to just jump right across.

00;43;14;01 - 00;43;22;08
Liam
And then, yeah, they've been so supportive of me since day one and I've always loved films and trying to make films.

00;43;22;10 - 00;43;25;20
Tappa
You because you have a bit to do with it, don't you? Like, you do a fair bit of the.

00;43;25;26 - 00;43;37;16
Liam
Yeah, I probably should leave it to the professionals, but I didn't muddle things up. Yeah, yeah, but, it's just a fun process for me to, to, like, start out with an idea and then try and bring it down.

00;43;37;20 - 00;43;40;12
Tappa
To, like, the music.

00;43;40;14 - 00;43;48;13
Liam
A bit of both. Actually. Had a friend, Daniel Lawrie. He's from the coast. He's from Palmy. He actually wrote a lot of the tracks for Panasonic.

00;43;48;14 - 00;43;53;24
Tappa
Next will be on the next one. They had a fantastic song. We got a new album coming out today.

00;43;53;27 - 00;43;56;12
Liam
Shameless plug. Gotta do it.

00;43;56;14 - 00;44;15;22
Tappa
But, my speaking to you and times last year cycle I now I've pulled up the top of the point and it's I and it's the biggest all that I've seen burly you know all that other people I feel like shit. Yeah, but whatever. Like, I've seen a lot of it. And you and types are out there, and I think some other people like that was like, crazy or.

00;44;15;22 - 00;44;16;24
Tappa
Why pass the shark.

00;44;16;24 - 00;44;19;12
Liam
That's. Yeah, that's a lot of water moving out there.

00;44;19;12 - 00;44;26;18
Tappa
Yeah. That was huge. And I remember Phil Clayton was on before and I said, like he's saying these blacks get a few whites, but he's paddled.

00;44;26;18 - 00;44;27;17
Liam
Out there on a club.

00;44;27;18 - 00;44;38;25
Tappa
Billboard. I know, absolute maniac. Well, he lost it. And he said like he's pretty experienced guy. But yeah, he found his club board in the trees at Fourth Avenue. That's for his. That's where I found it.

00;44;38;27 - 00;44;46;23
Liam
I couldn't believe that was the first day and it was him and another guy. I forget his name. Apologies. But, the two of my Hurst.

00;44;47;00 - 00;44;47;23
Tappa
Yeah, yeah.

00;44;47;25 - 00;45;06;26
Liam
The two of them got out there. I was just going, wow, these guys are freaking maniacs. It's just it wasn't. I mean, the size of the waves was massive, of course, but, you know, you surf waves like that in Hawaii. No worries. But it was just more the fact that it was just completely overloading the bank and the period was so short that it just be like sets breaking on top of each other.

00;45;06;26 - 00;45;14;15
Liam
And there's just so much current and so much turbulence and just chaos that to paddle out there was so impressive. These guys have done a good job to black.

00;45;14;16 - 00;45;22;01
Tappa
Palsy helping him out. A palsy said. Like, okay, I go at the creek this far and you guys, I was the first one. And then I'll signal you when. Not because.

00;45;22;01 - 00;45;22;09
Liam
Yeah.

00;45;22;11 - 00;45;24;26
Tappa
Because obviously you don't docked off of those slabs of fine.

00;45;24;26 - 00;45;50;16
Liam
No, not be so tricky. Yeah. I don't know how they pulled it off, but yeah. Like we we work always. I'm not like, the biggest. I love trying to like, paddle in the waves. Yeah. But yeah, that day I just conceded defeat and jumped on the old jet ski because it was just so much water. I tried to paddle a couple in between sets, but you'd literally you'd kind of like as soon as you'd be in the water, you'd be drifting like ten guys and out in the point and.

00;45;50;18 - 00;45;59;03
Liam
Yeah. So 30s and you'd be down at the pole at like down the beach. So it was just. Yeah, it wasn't, it was pretty hard. But on the ski you could kind of sneak in and and grab a.

00;45;59;03 - 00;46;15;20
Tappa
Couple or you and Ty Segall and turn for turn there. I noticed once when it was your turn on the Ski times got out and flick that and you would go inside and times was at the back at, I reckon about six of the big assets council already at the dock dive and you couldn't get away. You must.

00;46;15;23 - 00;46;16;28
Tappa
It was science.

00;46;17;00 - 00;46;33;00
Liam
Yeah, yeah. And it was, yeah, it was as I said, it was just like the period was so short. Yeah. It's such a large swell that it was like, set on, set on set. So it was kind of bit freaky because you could easily kind of have like a two wave hold down because they were quite close together.

00;46;33;02 - 00;46;45;04
Liam
But yeah, I remember the casting stepped him off onto a dot and then I couldn't get back to him. You just on your own once you, you know, you got the ski, but you can't really get to people when there's just so much chaos like that.

00;46;45;04 - 00;46;52;01
Tappa
Yeah, well, that's where a lot of people gotta realize. If you get a surf that's come on a wife, you got to have be able to have the ability to just get in yourself.

00;46;52;01 - 00;46;56;03
Liam
Yeah. You pretty much got to be happy that if the ski, you know, if this.

00;46;56;06 - 00;46;57;02
Tappa
Board and everything.

00;46;57;02 - 00;47;11;14
Liam
They can't get to you, you know, you lose your board. You got to be like, okay, I'm going to still be able to sort myself out here because yeah, that's a very real possibility. Like even just even if the ski doesn't break so easy to roll it and and then. Yeah, like even like what happened to tubs. You can just can't get to him.

00;47;11;14 - 00;47;15;20
Liam
There's just too much turbulence. Too much. What are you gonna. Just what he decided when.

00;47;15;20 - 00;47;17;05
Tappa
You pulled up, when you eventually.

00;47;17;05 - 00;47;23;08
Liam
Got out, he was pretty puffed. It's. Where were you?

00;47;23;10 - 00;47;34;26
Tappa
Mike, you love the big stuff, and you seem to have a real affinity with Hawaii as this tie. Because I remember once I started the Pipe Masters, because tide's got. Want it back. And look at that. Look at that guy. I just got on this young, young fella.

00;47;34;29 - 00;47;47;23
Liam
I was I was there with him actually. That. Right. That was pretty cool. Yeah. We pad all his crapping myself and he was all fired up to get out there. And yeah, I didn't catch a wave. And he got an absolute bomb at that door. And then yeah, they threw it on after that. That's pretty cool.

00;47;47;28 - 00;48;06;04
Tappa
Well, I know, I know Times Week was about 40 knots out and then no sun at 15. It just clicked with him and he was out taken off so deep at shock someone ridiculous things end up cutting his hand one time and hey, well, someone dropped in on him. Really badly. It might have been Billy, you know, smacked him, but you know, that's what you get when you a grommet that with the big boys.

00;48;06;06 - 00;48;19;21
Tappa
But might. You seem to love the big stuff, particularly paddling it. You do a lot, lot back door off the wall sort of thing. Or ice or what? Like does I need? I see those big those big waves that you got. It might have been two winners a guy, was it all three winners a guy?

00;48;19;21 - 00;48;22;18
Liam
Yeah. Probably to. Oh yeah, probably two winners ago.

00;48;22;25 - 00;48;26;27
Tappa
And now I like crazy. Was that Dan and off the wall or more towards back door or.

00;48;26;29 - 00;48;44;10
Liam
Oh yeah. They're not not that crazy compared to what a lot of guys are doing these days. But now I've. Yeah, I've been lucky to get to go to Hawaii a lot since I was pretty young, especially with Billabong in the early days, and staying at the house over there. And stuff. So it's an unreal place, as you know.

00;48;44;10 - 00;49;02;12
Liam
It's just it's not really many other places that have that amount of swell for that long and that consistently, you know, you get the swells like that at other places and bigger, but you just don't get it. Like in Hawaii, you'll go there, you know, sometimes you won't even see a wave under six foot for months. And yeah, it's amazing.

00;49;02;12 - 00;49;07;08
Liam
But yeah, I mean, in my experience there, it's pretty locked down. You know, the locals are pretty hungry.

00;49;07;08 - 00;49;12;14
Tappa
And you seem to have a pretty good, good rapport with most of them. They might I seem to get a bit of a rep guy.

00;49;12;15 - 00;49;27;04
Liam
I'll just stay out of their way. Yeah, but they're all good dudes. But it's kind of like, it'd be like here if it only broke early, if it only broke half a year. And then every time there was a swell, there's 50,000 people from all around the world flying for it. It'd just be so annoying. So I can.

00;49;27;07 - 00;49;27;21
Tappa
Fuck you.

00;49;27;21 - 00;49;48;23
Liam
Guys. Yeah, I fully understand why they just go, right. We're getting the sets and you guys can fight for the scraps. And that's. I'd like, fully get. That's fair enough. So, yeah, with that in mind, I kind of just I just try and find my little wives where I can around the lineup. Yeah. I'll sit down that off the wall a fair bit, which is it's kind of a close that most of the time, but every of once.

00;49;49;01 - 00;50;05;08
Liam
Yeah. Every now and then you get a corner. And that's kind of an option because, because there isn't many good ones. Not as big crew. Sit down there and then, I don't know, just trying to surf those sort of not perfect days when the local guys might give it a miss and it might just get the corner.

00;50;05;08 - 00;50;08;05
Liam
The odd, the old nag come through as a window or.

00;50;08;05 - 00;50;14;24
Tappa
Throw yourself over the edge, Mike, because in that I think wandering and in the yellow on the friction of perception, I think, do I get that right?

00;50;14;25 - 00;50;15;06
Liam
Yeah.

00;50;15;06 - 00;50;25;27
Tappa
You're preaching of perception. Might you try? Yeah. So far the legit a couple of pipes. Like what what what are you thinking as you go in that do that like, oh you're not thinking.

00;50;25;29 - 00;50;41;15
Liam
I'm just trying to keep up with everyone else out there. You just watching the craziest stuff go to and you kind of like, oh, I got gotta. I gotta do something. So I don't look. I look like a fool out there. Yeah, but, I don't know that you just sort of got to paddle as hard as you can at those waves and and just hang on.

00;50;41;15 - 00;50;44;23
Liam
More than anything, that's seems to be the way to do it.

00;50;45;00 - 00;50;46;28
Tappa
So just hang on and make sure you make it.

00;50;47;04 - 00;51;01;29
Liam
Yeah. You just I don't know, you just it's like once got told that you got to, you got to paddle as hard at a wave as it's coming at you. And if it's, you know, it's a really heavy, meaty wave. You got to like, just as hard at it. Otherwise you're just not going to make it. You're not going to get the entry.

00;51;01;29 - 00;51;06;18
Tappa
So that makes full sense, because if you go soft on a on paddle on a wife, generally just go for a ride.

00;51;06;18 - 00;51;25;26
Liam
I mean yeah, yeah. So that's I of try and keep that in mind. It's like if I'm going to go I'm going to just fully commit. And even once you stand up, you know, not like kind of getting up and moving slow like move fast, get down on your front foot catwalk. Yeah, but I don't, I don't I'll just try and watch the other guys out there that are real good and, and copy them.

00;51;25;26 - 00;51;28;24
Liam
But you know, the guys like John and Jamie, they got it so wide.

00;51;28;25 - 00;51;33;16
Tappa
It's just been done in a while. Yeah. It's in their backyard you know that's. Yeah.

00;51;33;19 - 00;51;43;07
Liam
But yeah. But you just kind of watch what they do out there and you kind of just go, well, if they can do that, I can probably do half as good. So I've just got good. Yeah.

00;51;43;09 - 00;51;59;05
Tappa
But that's good that you got, you got a bit of a rep there for solid stuff, mate, but it's well-deserved because like, you know, I like that those two films that you put out, I was just, I think that friction of perception we had at at the, brewery out there, and I just was looking kind of what that I was like.

00;51;59;07 - 00;51;59;28
Liam
That's what.

00;52;00;03 - 00;52;19;14
Tappa
I was. I was kind of like God holding me breath. Just watch it on film because I thought, well, he's here, he's alive, but know not like, well, but but yeah, that that's unreal. Now my future goals like I know like you're looking to get on tour next year, but you know, obviously unless you Kelly Slider, you're not on the tour till you're 50.

00;52;19;16 - 00;52;30;04
Tappa
Right. You could be, but, but, like, what are you what are your future goals? So now you've done a bit of engineering. What's what's the sort of you're looking at continuing to get that engineering degree at some stage?

00;52;30;09 - 00;52;51;27
Liam
Yeah. I haven't at the last few years. I've just been deferring and focusing on the surfing. And I probably, I'm probably at a point now where I've got to start thinking about the future a bit more, but, to be completely honest, up until now, I've just went surfing, became sort of a career for me. I just put everything into that, and I've been completely focused on that.

00;52;51;29 - 00;52;57;28
Liam
But yeah, I mean, I'd love to be on surfing. I'd probably love I'd love to try and finish that degree one day.

00;52;58;01 - 00;53;01;16
Tappa
And what sort of part of engineering were you looking at doing?

00;53;01;19 - 00;53;21;06
Liam
I was still first year when I kind of opened late. Yeah. That's it. Yeah, I guess it was pretty. It was still pretty general, but I would, I feel like I would try and go sort of something to do with the ocean. I mean, you know, James Lewis from Berkeley, he's a coastal engineer. Yeah. And that looks like a pretty interesting gig.

00;53;21;06 - 00;53;27;07
Liam
And, you know, just all the, just all the math surrounding how the ocean works, how.

00;53;27;13 - 00;53;31;18
Tappa
You like maths. That's it. That's a language that I don't think time. Correct.

00;53;31;22 - 00;53;40;08
Liam
I guess I'm not that great at it, but I do enjoy the, like the how it all just solves so neatly since we in that.

00;53;40;08 - 00;53;41;06
Tappa
Way, you got it's.

00;53;41;06 - 00;53;47;01
Liam
A satisfying thing when you get, you get to a solution. It's just. All right. That's the solution. That's it. There's no if part.

00;53;47;01 - 00;53;48;00
Tappa
So it's cut and dry.

00;53;48;00 - 00;54;03;11
Liam
Yeah. Exactly. But yeah I think yeah, maybe something kind of like coastal engineering wise would be pretty interesting. But yeah, as I said, I'm a long way from it. My brother's actually doing that. He's all right. He's got a year left on his degree and he's trying to move into that world. So.

00;54;03;13 - 00;54;05;03
Tappa
I might get there before I might. He might give.

00;54;05;03 - 00;54;10;09
Liam
You a job. He will? Yeah. I'll be begging my younger brother for a job.

00;54;10;11 - 00;54;21;19
Tappa
Like that. Like, you know, like you've got, you know, you know, really, it's it's you've got the city ahead of you next year. You know, you still got to qualify. Well, how many events are we got now? We've got Newcastle because I'm going to be there. Pipe.

00;54;21;21 - 00;54;22;28
Liam
Yeah. Just the two that.

00;54;22;28 - 00;54;23;09
Tappa
Suggest.

00;54;23;09 - 00;54;40;06
Liam
That. Yeah. Pipe is on the 29th of January. I think I might be the day before or after that. And then Newcastle's mid-March. Yeah. Yeah that's it. So then after Newcastle it bells isn't long off to somewhere sometime in April I think so.

00;54;40;07 - 00;54;41;26
Tappa
So be straight on if you're and get.

00;54;41;26 - 00;54;43;23
Liam
On your you kind of straight down the bills.

00;54;43;26 - 00;54;55;15
Tappa
Oh it's too bad I'm stoked I got the gig to commentate damn it. That nearly that'll be a bit of fun. But yeah. Mike pipe, you've been looking forward to go to that or not, but it's going to be a big field at pipe I like before man heats.

00;54;55;22 - 00;55;13;26
Liam
Yeah, it'll be four person heats. I don't know the exact format, but usually over there in the, non-city events they just run four person heats to the final because they have with the permits, the way it works, they only have a certain amount of days they're allowed to run. So yeah, typically four person hates but yeah, excited for it.

00;55;13;26 - 00;55;16;16
Liam
But it's pretty. Yeah. It's always pretty nerve wracking going on.

00;55;16;17 - 00;55;22;04
Tappa
Yeah I guess two events left I got to help me position because it's the top ten in it. They get. Yeah. And then yes. And then.

00;55;22;04 - 00;55;25;18
Liam
Even. Yeah even just surf and pipe. So it's scary. Yeah.

00;55;25;22 - 00;55;39;20
Tappa
Yeah well might I, I looked it off the wall was enough for me. I had a and then I got, I think I got two waves, I got one. Well no I didn't get, I got one, I got one bashed, I got one washed to the shore once. It's amazing there. The shoreside close.

00;55;39;21 - 00;55;41;10
Liam
Yeah. Just on the beach. Yeah.

00;55;41;10 - 00;55;51;27
Tappa
You get caught, it's on. You're on the beach. It's like. Oh okay. I got back out in the second one. I got Lipton and got washed to the beach again. I said, oh, at least I got one. But it wasn't really that good that day. I was there, but it was,

00;55;52;00 - 00;55;53;25
Liam
You got a few bombs out at sunset, didn't. Yeah.

00;55;53;25 - 00;56;05;03
Tappa
Oh, I got a couple of. Why's it sounds good to come bombs. But I got a couple anyway. I don't know how you'd like to do it. Like coming off. That's the thing I'm not. I got ask you at sunset, right. How big a board do you ride at sunset?

00;56;05;05 - 00;56;08;25
Liam
Depends how big it is, but probably like A67.

00;56;08;28 - 00;56;14;06
Tappa
Like, I was riding the seven six, and it felt so hard to get off the bottom of the wife.

00;56;14;09 - 00;56;14;27
Liam
Yeah, well.

00;56;14;27 - 00;56;18;16
Tappa
The bottom turn seems to be the hardest thing to do at sunset. Would that be right?

00;56;18;18 - 00;56;38;28
Liam
Yeah. Yeah, I guess it's just there's so much. It's not a perfect way. So there's all that, that chop and and kind of wobble on it. And that makes it quite tricky. So yeah. Like getting up into the lip. So it's hard. It's hard to time. It yeah it's a tricky wave. But yeah, there's sort of two schools of thought out there.

00;56;38;28 - 00;57;02;05
Liam
There's guys that ride pretty long boards and then guys like a, like a John John's that ride really little boards out there. And he I mean, I think the theory with him is it's because it's so small, he's got so much control. He can actually take the board into the parts of the wave where it is easier to do the turns instead of being kind of stuck, just, you know, following where the board wants to go.

00;57;02;05 - 00;57;09;20
Liam
He can actually directed a bit more. But I don't know. I don't think I can even catch a wave. I think he runs like A62 out there or something stupid. Oh wow, I don't think I can get it.

00;57;09;20 - 00;57;25;21
Tappa
While I was struggling to catch him A76, but I was back then I was 115. Kelly. It was more chins in the Chinese final game here all day, but but yeah, that was it. I gave up the three straight after that. I said I went, I went home and I said that that's, you know, I'm having a break and I'm still on a break, but nine years.

00;57;25;23 - 00;57;40;00
Tappa
Yeah. But yeah, but that's it's just like I find that. Yeah, fitness is a big thing over there. That's like because it's so hard you're actually competing with the wife as well as you as well as yourself over this sort of thing. And, and and if you're in a comp. God.

00;57;40;02 - 00;57;40;14
Liam
Yeah.

00;57;40;14 - 00;57;41;19
Tappa
That's another level.

00;57;41;22 - 00;57;59;27
Liam
Yeah. No, you get kind of get when you just surf and over there a lot, you kind of just get conditioned by the waves. I think. Yeah. But yeah, you're right. There's just so much black water moving and paddling and it's like sun sets a big line up. So if you surf in there, you're doing big long laps and it's snapper leggy and it's some big old swimming.

00;57;59;28 - 00;58;00;07
Liam
Yeah.

00;58;00;07 - 00;58;06;00
Tappa
People don't realize how far out the back it is and how long it takes. It looks like it's not far to just paddle out there, but it's so far out.

00;58;06;02 - 00;58;08;05
Liam
Yeah, yeah. It's closer than it is.

00;58;08;05 - 00;58;24;18
Tappa
Yeah, it certainly does. And and like you probably this is what, Micah, tell me when you guys you. Why do you go back home? It's a piece of piss. Yeah. It's like you got. I'm happy being safe and sound systems. Oh, well, that that's nothing. I can not drive that, you know, it's just it's just mix. Well that's it.

00;58;24;18 - 00;58;27;29
Tappa
Yeah. It makes surfing easy once you've surfed to. Why? Because it's hard.

00;58;28;01 - 00;58;46;18
Liam
Yeah. For sure. Yeah. Like even just the. How nice and perfect the waves can be around here and over there, it's always got like a little bit of wobble and a little bit of sort of uneasiness about it. Of course, you get your perfect days, but because there's just so much like that big period ocean waves, they're not like really groomed.

00;58;46;23 - 00;59;02;18
Liam
They're being wrapped into a bay where it's just perfect, like a snap, a for example. So yeah, you come home and you can just so much you can just do whatever you want. You can just I can turn here, I can turn there is so much easier. But there you're definitely you're at the mercy of the wave a lot more certain things.

00;59;02;18 - 00;59;03;15
Liam
You just can't.

00;59;03;17 - 00;59;05;13
Tappa
Live over there. Like,

00;59;05;15 - 00;59;23;23
Liam
I mean, I love, of course, the back door off the wall, probably had some of my better waves there off the wall just because I can actually get a couple. Yeah. Because, those those three spots are unreal. But sunset and maleeva, like, Valley Ave is such a good way of. I really love that spot.

00;59;23;25 - 00;59;25;24
Tappa
I've never surfed that one, but I've always wanted to.

00;59;25;24 - 00;59;32;23
Liam
Yeah, it's so cool when it's a bit smaller. It's kind of tricky, but once it gets to a certain size and it's like, yeah, it just gets like top to bottom and.

00;59;33;00 - 00;59;36;07
Tappa
It's that big ball gown and it keeps sticking out to say there it's reverse.

00;59;36;07 - 00;59;38;16
Liam
Right? Yeah, yeah. The reverse current.

00;59;38;19 - 00;59;40;29
Tappa
End up in the by way Gilligan's Island started.

00;59;41;06 - 00;59;46;03
Liam
Yeah yeah yeah. But now that's a fun way. I've really enjoyed that one.

00;59;46;05 - 00;59;53;05
Tappa
That's cool mate. And, so, so next event off Hawaii when you off to. Well, I might.

00;59;53;07 - 00;59;57;03
Liam
I'm going to go two weeks before the comp, so. But we leave on the 12th of.

00;59;57;03 - 01;00;04;14
Tappa
Jan and get in with everybody. That's going crazy. I've been told November is the worst time to go there, because that's when the season starts and everybody's angry.

01;00;04;18 - 01;00;10;20
Liam
Yeah, everyone's. Everyone's pretty fancy to get their wives. It's been pretty pumping over there at the moment too, so.

01;00;10;22 - 01;00;21;12
Tappa
Oh, you'll be hanging to get in there, might I? Yeah, well I am it's been great to have you on the green room, mate. An honor to have you here. And, my. Well done and good luck, and we'll see you on the tour next year, I reckon. Right. Cheers.

01;00;21;15 - 01;00;25;09
Liam
Cheers, tava. Thanks for having me. You had fun, if I guess.

01;00;25;11 - 01;00;42;10
Tappa
Thanks for tuning into the green room. Hey, thanks. Would you like to get your name in the Green Room podcast? Well, we are looking for sponsors, so if you want to get a sponsorship, check it out at Pod Fire. Lots of people can hear about your product on one of the best podcasts around the green room. So, check it out.

01;00;42;10 - 01;01;00;29
Tappa
Pod fire. Thanks for tuning into the green Room. A big thank you to our guests for sharing their stories and insights, and Pod Fire for bringing this podcast to life. Don't forget to subscribe, like, leave a review and share the green room with your friends. We'll catch you next time for more conversations with the Legends of Surf and beyond.

01;01;01;02 - 01;01;03;03
Tappa
Until then, catch you in the waves.